Summer Detail
#76
Order it directly from Poorboy's, I got mine faster than what the FedEx tracking information said.
EX = Darker Vehicles
EX P = Lighter Vehicles
I hear you about the shipping. It's one of the main reasons why I spend so much every time I do order something.
RollingRock, what's SM !?
EX = Darker Vehicles
EX P = Lighter Vehicles
I hear you about the shipping. It's one of the main reasons why I spend so much every time I do order something.
RollingRock, what's SM !?
Last time I ordered from PB it took a week to get to TX
BTW that is not correct info on EX-P. A pure sealer is just that, a pure sealer. It doesn't matter what color the paint is.
#80
was on pb's forum and this was their response to a silver vehicle
"For silver , I like to first use Pro Polish or Polish w/ Carnauba ...then topping with EX-P is an option, followed by Natty's (white for pop of the metal flake, blue if you want a warmer shine"
was dated sept. 2007, don't know if white diamond was out then or not to use instead of pp
"For silver , I like to first use Pro Polish or Polish w/ Carnauba ...then topping with EX-P is an option, followed by Natty's (white for pop of the metal flake, blue if you want a warmer shine"
was dated sept. 2007, don't know if white diamond was out then or not to use instead of pp
#81
was on pb's forum and this was their response to a silver vehicle
"For silver , I like to first use Pro Polish or Polish w/ Carnauba ...then topping with EX-P is an option, followed by Natty's (white for pop of the metal flake, blue if you want a warmer shine"
was dated sept. 2007, don't know if white diamond was out then or not to use instead of pp
"For silver , I like to first use Pro Polish or Polish w/ Carnauba ...then topping with EX-P is an option, followed by Natty's (white for pop of the metal flake, blue if you want a warmer shine"
was dated sept. 2007, don't know if white diamond was out then or not to use instead of pp
The PB message board is a great place for data.
#82
So I guess its official then. My next detail will be as follows:
Wash with foam cannon and DP foam soap
Clay with Megs white
#80 for a few light scratches, Megs polishing pad, speed 5
white diamond, (help with pads & speed)
EX-P (also help)
#16 by hand of course
Zaino Grand Finale Spray.
Did I mention I'll do the wheel wells also.
Wash with foam cannon and DP foam soap
Clay with Megs white
#80 for a few light scratches, Megs polishing pad, speed 5
white diamond, (help with pads & speed)
EX-P (also help)
#16 by hand of course
Zaino Grand Finale Spray.
Did I mention I'll do the wheel wells also.
#83
So I guess its official then. My next detail will be as follows:
Wash with foam cannon and DP foam soap
Clay with Megs white
#80 for a few light scratches, Megs polishing pad, speed 5
white diamond, (help with pads & speed)
EX-P (also help)
#16 by hand of course
Zaino Grand Finale Spray.
Did I mention I'll do the wheel wells also.
Wash with foam cannon and DP foam soap
Clay with Megs white
#80 for a few light scratches, Megs polishing pad, speed 5
white diamond, (help with pads & speed)
EX-P (also help)
#16 by hand of course
Zaino Grand Finale Spray.
Did I mention I'll do the wheel wells also.
Since you are using 80 with your polishing pad, you can use something lighter for the WD. I don't know MEgs pads that well, so if you had Lakes, I would use White or Black for WD. As for EX-P, softest pad you have, if that is a Lake, that is blue.
#84
Meg's pads are extremely easy (one of the reasons that I prefer them over the Lake pads)...
Meg's Pads for the PC/G100
Yellow = Polishing (W8006)
Tan = Finishing (W9006)
Burgandy = Cutting (typically a 'rotary only' type of pad) (W7006)
Pads are pricey and one of the highest margin products sold in the detailing world... I just don't think the cost of a bunch of varying degrees of polishing pads is justified when the product and technique are going to be doing *most* of the work.
-RP-
Meg's Pads for the PC/G100
Yellow = Polishing (W8006)
Tan = Finishing (W9006)
Burgandy = Cutting (typically a 'rotary only' type of pad) (W7006)
Pads are pricey and one of the highest margin products sold in the detailing world... I just don't think the cost of a bunch of varying degrees of polishing pads is justified when the product and technique are going to be doing *most* of the work.
-RP-
#85
Meg's pads are extremely easy (one of the reasons that I prefer them over the Lake pads)...
Meg's Pads for the PC/G100
Yellow = Polishing (W8006)
Tan = Finishing (W9006)
Burgandy = Cutting (typically a 'rotary only' type of pad) (W7006)
Pads are pricey and one of the highest margin products sold in the detailing world... I just don't think the cost of a bunch of varying degrees of polishing pads is justified when the product and technique are going to be doing *most* of the work.
-RP-
Meg's Pads for the PC/G100
Yellow = Polishing (W8006)
Tan = Finishing (W9006)
Burgandy = Cutting (typically a 'rotary only' type of pad) (W7006)
Pads are pricey and one of the highest margin products sold in the detailing world... I just don't think the cost of a bunch of varying degrees of polishing pads is justified when the product and technique are going to be doing *most* of the work.
-RP-
I would use the W9006 for both WD and EX-P
Different pads of course, not the same one.
That's the great thing about our OCD lifestyle, many ways to skin a cat.
#86
Well first of all I can't thank all the help from this site enough, in particular this section. I just bought one of each lake pad except yellow and red. I will be using a G100 as far as the speed references go.
#87
did you get the VC or CCS pads?
regardless you should use the black with WD and use speed 3 to spread the product but dont' go more than speed 4...it will cause WD to dry to quickly...there is no need to go really fast with a glaze.
Work it in...you will see it change and you'll know, if you start to see dust you are working it in too much and or going too fast....then allow the WD to dry to a haze then remove. Basically do the entire truck then remove.
For EX-P, use the blue pad....a little goes a long way once the pad is loaded. Blot the pad with product, then blot the surface in a 1x1 or 2x2 area, spread it then work it in. Same Speed, 3-4 tops. allow it to stay on the paint...do the whole surface...then go do something like, start washing your MF's or go in side and surf for a while. Give the last section at least an hour to set up. You can take off the EX-P in as little as 30 min if you want but try and go for an hour. After that, go right to your LSP.
Do not forget to preload the pads with QD, a few short sprays, then apply product. This is very important.
#88
I read the same thing over at the Poorboy's forum, they said to moisten the pad before applying any product. What is the purpose of doing this? To help the product work better or something?