Before and after shots, nothing too fancy
#16
M83 is Meguiar's Dual Action Cleaner Polish (more of a cleaner than a polish). The pad goes onto the polishing machine. Seriously, just to see what you are working with, pick up some Meguiar's Deep Crystal Paint cleaner and work it into a spot and see what happens. That paint cleaner is the mildest Meguiar's has, and from there you will know if you need to step it up or can continue from there. It is about $4 for a bottle.
Cleaners and polishes (Meguiar's anyways, not sure about all of them) are worked in, then removed. Waxes sit until they dry and then are removed.
Cleaners and polishes (Meguiar's anyways, not sure about all of them) are worked in, then removed. Waxes sit until they dry and then are removed.
I'll just have to try that stuff a little bit on each body piece to see what I'm getting myself into. Would hate to get 90% done and have it looking great, then run down to the metal cleaning/polishing the last piece :o. Will just have to try it and see how it goes I guess.
Forgot to mention from the beginning... The paint is actually a two tone. The section in between the upper and lower trim pieces is actually a darker red then the top and bottom section. Hard to see now though, but easily noticeable if you look at a part of the body that hasn't been prone to everything that makes the paint fade (such as underneath the fat trim piece). Would be pretty stoked if that two tone actually looked two different colors again after trying some of these suggestions
#17
Everybody here makes valid points.
SS paint does die, and when it does, not much you can do.
However, parts of the paint job which are not "dead" will shine right up and stay that way, IF you take care of them.
My first detail by myself was a 80s model Porsche 944. It was so oxidized that it was orange instead of Red. Against the urging of the elders I wanted to detail it anyway (I was getting free product out of the deal.) I even called JP halfway through it and he talked me through what I may have been seeing. I used SSR1, Pro Polish with sealant, and NXT.
As the car sits today, it's not in horrible shape. The owner hasn't cleaned it since then, and I've washed it one time while I did my truck. Most of the car is still very vibrant. Parts of it, parts where the paint was a little too far gone, are back to looking orange. The car is parked outside 24/7 under a tree, even though there's an empty garage right there.
SS paint does die, and when it does, not much you can do.
However, parts of the paint job which are not "dead" will shine right up and stay that way, IF you take care of them.
My first detail by myself was a 80s model Porsche 944. It was so oxidized that it was orange instead of Red. Against the urging of the elders I wanted to detail it anyway (I was getting free product out of the deal.) I even called JP halfway through it and he talked me through what I may have been seeing. I used SSR1, Pro Polish with sealant, and NXT.
As the car sits today, it's not in horrible shape. The owner hasn't cleaned it since then, and I've washed it one time while I did my truck. Most of the car is still very vibrant. Parts of it, parts where the paint was a little too far gone, are back to looking orange. The car is parked outside 24/7 under a tree, even though there's an empty garage right there.
#18
I think where troberts and I were going with our initial responses was down a 'ultra-conservative' road...
That being that it's really tough to assess paint over a computer... or the phone... or via Fax (yes, I had an owner fax me a picture of his vehicle once -- HHAHAHA!). If a user is telling me that the paint has metal-bare in places, I'm going to err on the conservative side and recommend that the paint be left alone because it's already been compromised. That said, it's likely that the metal spots are anomalies and may even be a result of something unique, odd, or very specific to the vehicle (resprayed areas, trail rash, etc).
SS paint, in my opinion, is actually quite enjoyable to work on because you can take a severely oxidized vehicle and REALLY bring it back to life with a nice cleaner. The earlier recommendation of Color-X is actually a *really* good idea (why didn't I think of that? HA!). Color-X is a chemically aggressive cleaner with only a light amount of abrasives. It's one of those products that gets regularly overlooked because it's not always in the limelight (it really is a good one step product for a SS painted surface though!).
Another option would be Zymol HD-Cleanse -- While I've only tinkered with this product (sample provided by a buddy on autopia), it really was a nice cleaner (kind of similar to Color-X, IMO, without the protection).
Again though, I'm going to stick by my guns with the conservative thought process because of the impossible nature of paint assessment via electrons (internets.. ha)... I'm not saying that it can't be done but, I'm not going to let anyone wear the '...I tried RP's advice and had to get my vehicle resprayed...' hat.
-RP-
That being that it's really tough to assess paint over a computer... or the phone... or via Fax (yes, I had an owner fax me a picture of his vehicle once -- HHAHAHA!). If a user is telling me that the paint has metal-bare in places, I'm going to err on the conservative side and recommend that the paint be left alone because it's already been compromised. That said, it's likely that the metal spots are anomalies and may even be a result of something unique, odd, or very specific to the vehicle (resprayed areas, trail rash, etc).
SS paint, in my opinion, is actually quite enjoyable to work on because you can take a severely oxidized vehicle and REALLY bring it back to life with a nice cleaner. The earlier recommendation of Color-X is actually a *really* good idea (why didn't I think of that? HA!). Color-X is a chemically aggressive cleaner with only a light amount of abrasives. It's one of those products that gets regularly overlooked because it's not always in the limelight (it really is a good one step product for a SS painted surface though!).
Another option would be Zymol HD-Cleanse -- While I've only tinkered with this product (sample provided by a buddy on autopia), it really was a nice cleaner (kind of similar to Color-X, IMO, without the protection).
Again though, I'm going to stick by my guns with the conservative thought process because of the impossible nature of paint assessment via electrons (internets.. ha)... I'm not saying that it can't be done but, I'm not going to let anyone wear the '...I tried RP's advice and had to get my vehicle resprayed...' hat.
-RP-