I have extremely tough to remove waterspots on my 05 Screw from the sprinler and then sunshine. Even after I wash it thoroughly there are the greying spot which will not go away. Can Bathroom CLR (less harsh than reg CLR)be used on my truck to remove these tough waterspots? I use it on my bassboat then wash/rinse then go over with Bassboatsaver (gelcoat sealer) and it works great. I figured I could do the same on the truck and avoid alot of elbow grease as long as I use a cleaner wax then a good carnuba afterwards with my buffer. Thanks for the help in advance

 

1. What is in that product?

2. Can you get a close up the problem areas?

3. When was the last time you clayed the surface?

If the answer is never, that is the first thing you need to try, of course if you have wax on the surface now, after you clay you should then try to polish out the water marks (It may invloved an aggressive polish) the follow the rest of the detailing steps...


Wash
clay
Polish (surface correct)
glaze (optional)
Seal (optional)
LSP -wax

Have you read the detail sticky yet? Water spots are discussed there and here a lot...the search button works wonders.

Net is, I wouldn't use that product on your paint. Probably safe but you never know.

Use the tried and true methods.

 

If you would quit responding to questions like this so fast, I could sound smart, but you always get to it before me!!! Oh well, its good for the OP to get fast responses.

 

Here is what Its looks like..


http://images-cdn01.associatedconten...e/A1401/140169


I used it and it took the waterspots of instantly and then I rewashed it as I went so that it would not sit on the paint long. I then used the Meguiars cleaner wax with my orbital and then followed it up with a coat of NXT. Needless to say the truck looks BRAND New and I recommend it to anyone. Saved a lot of time this way and the end result was amazing...Anyone with stubborn water spots try this and save you some $$$ and elbow grease..

 

I'm not so sure I'd want that stuff to touch my paint until I saw the chemical specs on it. I'm sure the pH isn't too great for a vehicle's paint. I'm assuming here since I've never seen the chemical specs.

 

SECTION 3 - COMPOSITION /INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
Component CAS# OSHA HAZARD % by Weight
1. Water 7732-18-5 NO 81-89
2. Lactic Acid 79-33-4 YES 8-12
3. Lauryldimethyl Hydroxysultaine 13197-76-7 N0 2-5
4. Propylene Glycol Normal Butyl Ether 5131-66-8 YES 1-2

I say no freaking way this touches my paint.

I cannot pronounce these words....

RockPick can....

 

Brad would be having a heart attack with his job aspect of involvement. Well I guess more so than you and I are having right now !! Wow.

 

Wait a tic....isn't Lactic acid a by product of working out....?

Is that why I get my **** kicked in races? My legs are full of lactic acid?

 

Yep. As your muscles contract, a byproduct is that they overproduce lactic acid (hence the soreness-- its a chemical!!!). Slowly, the acid absorbs back into your muscles and it's OK, but that's what we call being sore...

I wish there was a magic absorber I could eat/drink that would prevent this...

 

How would this be for removing spots off of glass? Ive tried just about everything on this site and nothing works.

 

Ugh...

I immediately think about the applicability to the local STAR regulations (strategic toxic air reduction) and the glycol ether that is in the mix. Sorry... air permitting on the brain (that and I'm dealing with an ethylene glycol thing right now with a fortune 5 company right now at their largest North American manufacturing facility).

Sorry... a bit of a sidetrack there...

As for that particular flavor of chemical mixture; nope. It wouldn't be on my paint.

If this was on your windshield (no tint), I'd be a bit more apt to say, 'maybe'. On paint, there are ways to safely remove water spotting.

 

Hey Chris,

This is Ticman from over at the BBC. Small world and even smaller internet. LOL!!! I'm glad the CLR worked for you but I wouldn't use it any more. You did the right thing washing it off right away. Paint isn't even close to gel-coat in the toughness category.

Next time you have water spots try some Meguiar’s Scratch-X. It can be used by hand or with a Dual Action buffer. If that doesn’t get them then get some Meguiar’s #80 Speed Glaze. Great stuff and easy to use. You can get Meguiar’s products at O’Rielly’s or NAPA. A very good on-line store is: www.autodetailingsolutions.com. They pretty much have everything Meguiar’s makes and a lot more.

Shoot me an IM / email over on BBC if you have any questions and by the way, Great Looking Truck!!!!

Tic

 

Have you tried Meguiar's #2 Fine Cut cleaner? I have had great results using this with my rotary. You can even go up to the #4 heavy cut cleaner on glass. Heck, I did a boat a couple weeks ago and tried some #49 on the glass and it wiped the water spots off in a few seconds.
Oh, the #2 will work by hand as well.

Tic

 

I just ordered #50 for a friends boat and the Porter cable DA. I should be getting it tomorrow or Monday. I will have to place another order. Do you think I can try #80? If not I will order the #2 Fine cut Cleaner. Thanks.

 

It should work. The biggest difference I have found is the #80 is hard to get completely off the window. Might be the polishing oils or something. I have used some #84 and worked quite well too.

My daughters Saturn Vue had some fine scratches along with water spots on her side window and I used #84 and a cutting pad and removed them. It did take 4 good hard passes though, glass is some hard stuff compared to paint. LOL!!

Oh, be sure to tape up around that glass. The splatter is a beotch to get off the rubber. Don't ask how I know that.

Tic