Detailing new paint
#1
Detailing new paint
This is kind of off-topic...the bodywork for my race car went into the shop today for a fresh coat of paint. The old paint was applied poorly in the first place then not taken care of at all (not to mention the excessive use of duct tape on the paint), but it's being completely re-done. They said the whole process takes about a week (stripping old paint, fiberglass repair, sanding, primer, paint, clear coat, curing oven etc.) so I will have it back by the end of next week. Here's what the car looks like, it's getting painted gloss black again:
My question is, how long should I wait to apply a coat of wax and what should I use? I was thinking of using a synthetic wax such as NXT 2.0. This car is stored inside and only used 4-6 times a year so durability isn't a huge issue. I will likely be using quick detailer or a california car duster at the track between sessions to keep it looking nice. It's a race car, not a show car, but I want the paint to really pop and I don't mind working a little bit to achieve that. I don't have a DA buffer nor do I plan on getting one. I want something I can buy at a Wal Mart or Canadian Tire. Would there be any reason to wash or clay bar the new paint prior to waxing it?
Also, the horizontal rear panels (aluminum) at the back of the body have been stripped and polished to a mirror...what fun work that was! What should I use to polish these and keep them looking nice? Should I apply a coat of wax or do I just polish periodically with the Mothers Aluminum Polish I used?
Any other advice would be appreciated!
And no, I'm not HD'ing the tires
My question is, how long should I wait to apply a coat of wax and what should I use? I was thinking of using a synthetic wax such as NXT 2.0. This car is stored inside and only used 4-6 times a year so durability isn't a huge issue. I will likely be using quick detailer or a california car duster at the track between sessions to keep it looking nice. It's a race car, not a show car, but I want the paint to really pop and I don't mind working a little bit to achieve that. I don't have a DA buffer nor do I plan on getting one. I want something I can buy at a Wal Mart or Canadian Tire. Would there be any reason to wash or clay bar the new paint prior to waxing it?
Also, the horizontal rear panels (aluminum) at the back of the body have been stripped and polished to a mirror...what fun work that was! What should I use to polish these and keep them looking nice? Should I apply a coat of wax or do I just polish periodically with the Mothers Aluminum Polish I used?
Any other advice would be appreciated!
And no, I'm not HD'ing the tires
#2
#3
I'm not sure on the waiting period after new paint, i'll let some more expirienced people help with that... But i highley suggest as far as waxing goes to do this..
1. Apply NXT 2.0
2. Wait 12 hrs.
3. Apply Megs #26.
4. QD the Entire thing afterwards, and periodically as needed when dust collects over the year.
And as for the tires, at least get an All purpose cleaner and a stiff brush to get them nice and black, don't have to be glossy. Just clean.
also, those aluminum panels, wax them with NXT. You can also apply the NXT to your rims. It'll help you keep them clean, im sure the break dust piles up on them during a race.
Hope i helped.
1. Apply NXT 2.0
2. Wait 12 hrs.
3. Apply Megs #26.
4. QD the Entire thing afterwards, and periodically as needed when dust collects over the year.
And as for the tires, at least get an All purpose cleaner and a stiff brush to get them nice and black, don't have to be glossy. Just clean.
also, those aluminum panels, wax them with NXT. You can also apply the NXT to your rims. It'll help you keep them clean, im sure the break dust piles up on them during a race.
Hope i helped.
#4
90 days is the general consensus on new paint. Whether you clay or not depends on the condition of the paint. It doesn't hurt. I'd probably do it before each wax. Since it doesn't see too much action, At the beginning of the year or race season, I'd wash it real good. Clay it. Polish it (since you want something locally, I'd look for may Meg's Deep Crystal polish, shouldn't be too hard to find.) Then apply the NXT 2.0. Allow ample time for 2.0 to cure. You could leave it like that (though some people complain about a seran wrap look thats usually fixed with a carnauba wax such as Megs #26. then throught the year just keep up with it with a quick detailer and some quality microfiber towels. If you notice the paint is contaminated with small pieces of road debris and bugs, then go ahead and repeat the entire process again. Otherwise just wash it and apply NXT 2.0 and your #26 or similar to keep it looking fresh. Avoid any kind of dry dustin on the car such as the California Duster. You'll enduce swirls to the paint. A quick detailer and MF towels are a much better way to go. For you polished panels, I'd polish them with Mothers Aluminum Polish and the hit them with a good wax such as NXT 2.0 like previously stated. Repeat as necessary. I don't know how well decals stick to a waxed surface. I would be easier to do the wax first, but might not be the best thing to do.
#5
#6
Thanks for the advice guys.
Yeah it's a Formula Vee.
I just happened to go to Canadian Tire right after I posted this and I picked up some Megs Gold Class Liquid Wax. I didn't find any NXT at all...this looked like the best stuff. If you guys recommend against the Gold Class I will just return it and find NXT and #26 elsewhere. As I said I don't need a showroom finish just something that looks good and protects my investment
I picked up some Megs Quick Detailer, too. I guess I will get the clay bar kit later as well. Where can I get some good MF's ? Preferably somewhere that accepts PayPal as I am 16 and it's all I have...thanks.
Yeah it's a Formula Vee.
I just happened to go to Canadian Tire right after I posted this and I picked up some Megs Gold Class Liquid Wax. I didn't find any NXT at all...this looked like the best stuff. If you guys recommend against the Gold Class I will just return it and find NXT and #26 elsewhere. As I said I don't need a showroom finish just something that looks good and protects my investment
I picked up some Megs Quick Detailer, too. I guess I will get the clay bar kit later as well. Where can I get some good MF's ? Preferably somewhere that accepts PayPal as I am 16 and it's all I have...thanks.
#7
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#8
If in doubt, ask the painter. He may just have some more insight.
#9
You can keep the Gold Class to use as a topcoat over NXT.
Walmart carries NXT 2.0 and Mother's clay kits. They also carry cheap microfibers that will do the job, but they are NOT approved by the elders here. If you can find some Meguiars microfibers anywhere, they are decidedly better. If you go and just feel them, you can tell the difference - they have thicker pile and feel softer.
Walmart carries NXT 2.0 and Mother's clay kits. They also carry cheap microfibers that will do the job, but they are NOT approved by the elders here. If you can find some Meguiars microfibers anywhere, they are decidedly better. If you go and just feel them, you can tell the difference - they have thicker pile and feel softer.
#12
Waxing over a decal with a product like NXT shouldn't cause any problems what so ever (very very mild cleaners in the product). As always though, test in an inconspicious spot before going to town. 99.999% chance that you're good to go...
Hey... by the way, COOL CAR!
-RP-
#13
X2
Waxing over a decal with a product like NXT shouldn't cause any problems what so ever (very very mild cleaners in the product). As always though, test in an inconspicious spot before going to town. 99.999% chance that you're good to go...
Hey... by the way, COOL CAR!
-RP-
Waxing over a decal with a product like NXT shouldn't cause any problems what so ever (very very mild cleaners in the product). As always though, test in an inconspicious spot before going to town. 99.999% chance that you're good to go...
Hey... by the way, COOL CAR!
-RP-
#14
Alright cool, thanks for all the advice
I think I am going to wait at least 30 days (I don't really have 90 days to wait, and it's being oven cured anyway), the wash/clay bar/wash. I'll apply the decals then before hitting it with some NXT 2.0 + Megs Gold Class
Anybody know anything about PoorBoys Black Hole? Kind of expensive given what I'm using it on but if it makes a big difference I will probably pick some up since I need to order some better MF's anyway...I assume that would go on right before the wax/LSP, probably replacing the NXT 2.0?
On second thought, nevermind, you guys are slowly making me OCD...I'm only sixteen I can't be spending all my money on detailing supplies hahaha...need to get the car on track first.
I think I am going to wait at least 30 days (I don't really have 90 days to wait, and it's being oven cured anyway), the wash/clay bar/wash. I'll apply the decals then before hitting it with some NXT 2.0 + Megs Gold Class
Anybody know anything about PoorBoys Black Hole? Kind of expensive given what I'm using it on but if it makes a big difference I will probably pick some up since I need to order some better MF's anyway...I assume that would go on right before the wax/LSP, probably replacing the NXT 2.0?
On second thought, nevermind, you guys are slowly making me OCD...I'm only sixteen I can't be spending all my money on detailing supplies hahaha...need to get the car on track first.
#15
Wait a minute... it's an CATAYLIZED PAINT? You mentioned that it's oven-baked; I didn't see that previously.
Also, you're mentioning clay...
I'd recommend that you check with your body guy. I'd bet that they're going to have it pretty much in shape for you. I'd be surprised if it's not ready for you to wax.
Also, you're mentioning clay...
I'd recommend that you check with your body guy. I'd bet that they're going to have it pretty much in shape for you. I'd be surprised if it's not ready for you to wax.