cleaning
#1
06-20-2008, 09:33 PM
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cleaning
OK so I just finished the detail on my truck and now have to clean up.
First when I bought my DA and pads they gave me some pad cleaner. The directions say to dilute in 4 gallons of water and change every week. So do I fill up the water and toss the pads in then rinse and let dry ? Is there an order of what pad to put in the solution first ?
Next I bought some good MF towels. Is the best way to wash them by themselves no frabric softener and them dry in the dryer ?
Who knew the cleanup would be just as hard as the last 8.5 hours I spent in the garage working on the old F150. Pics to come.
Thanks
First when I bought my DA and pads they gave me some pad cleaner. The directions say to dilute in 4 gallons of water and change every week. So do I fill up the water and toss the pads in then rinse and let dry ? Is there an order of what pad to put in the solution first ?
Next I bought some good MF towels. Is the best way to wash them by themselves no frabric softener and them dry in the dryer ?
Who knew the cleanup would be just as hard as the last 8.5 hours I spent in the garage working on the old F150. Pics to come.
Thanks
#2
06-20-2008, 09:43 PM
Different pad cleaners will have different directions so I won't comment on that. I'd follow the directions. Which type of pad cleaner is it?
As far as cleaning your MF towels. I'd purchase the MF detergent. It's worth it. If you don't have it and get a hold of any. Just wash with a small amount of normal Tide, no additives, and absoloutely no fabric softners. I wash on warm/cold, two rinses, and on a delicate cycle. During the tail end of the second rinse, I'll add a tablespoon of distilled white vinegar per towel or applicator. I hang dry all of my towels.
I hope this helps ...
As far as cleaning your MF towels. I'd purchase the MF detergent. It's worth it. If you don't have it and get a hold of any. Just wash with a small amount of normal Tide, no additives, and absoloutely no fabric softners. I wash on warm/cold, two rinses, and on a delicate cycle. During the tail end of the second rinse, I'll add a tablespoon of distilled white vinegar per towel or applicator. I hang dry all of my towels.
I hope this helps ...
#3
06-21-2008, 12:41 PM
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This stuff is called Snappy Clean pad cleaning powder. It also says for use with system 2000 pad washer to keep pad pile clean and supple. Directions: empty packet into 3 -4 gallons of water, replace soultion weekly or more often with heavy use.
I'm wundering how the he** I use this stuff since I don't have the System 200 Pad Washer. WTF over ?
I'm wundering how the he** I use this stuff since I don't have the System 200 Pad Washer. WTF over ?
#5
06-22-2008, 02:15 AM
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#6
06-22-2008, 10:42 AM
Just thought I'd add to this ... I tried the DP Polishing Pad Rejuvenator stuff last night. I thought it worked pretty good. I didn't have to do too much scrubbing and it didn't seem too hard to rinse out of the pads. All in all, I'm glad I bought it and would recommend it.
#7
06-22-2008, 12:56 PM
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Your drying your MF towels on high heat? FYI high heat is bad for MF towels.
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#8
06-22-2008, 07:19 PM
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06-22-2008, 10:21 PM
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06-23-2008, 02:09 AM
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Here is a post from over at MOL from Leo, the owner of DF Towels:
There have been a number of people at MOL that are/were (not sure what they are doing now) in the textile industry have all said you should dry warm to hot or that it is at least safe.
I try not to respond to posts like this but when my veracity is questioned... well... I'll try to be polite. First of all those denier numbers are entirely wrong and appear to be taken out of context from any number of sites. Are they referring to yarn or thread? Do these numbers refer to the English, Chinese, Japanese, or Indian forms of measurement? And why should anyone really care anyway? If a product works and you're happy with it then that's all that really matters. You're obviously not a textile technician so please leave the technical stuff to the experts, and my nearly 40 years of experience in the textile industry (started when I was 16) as a weaver, printer, dyer, and designer should be enough to put me in that category. I recently discovered I was considered a mentor, along with Christian Dior, to a well known menswear designer http://www.suityourself.com/company-details.asp. Your statement of doubt is equivalent to doubting Barry Meguiar's word as to the chemical content of his fine products when you know nothing about the subject.
Just to clear things up though, there certainly is such a thing as cotton microfiber yarn and it's been around for a number of years now. It's especially popular in knitted fabrics used for high end bras and lingerie by such designers as Donna Karen and Calvin Klein.
Now... back on topic...
As to Woolite... it is really too mild for detailing towels, eventually they will loose their effectiveness due to insufficient cleaning. Woolite is best for lingerie, cashmere, and fine knits washed in cold water, not fabrics meant for abuse like detailing towels are. The best way to clean is simply liquid detergent in hot water. Don't waste your money on dedicated microfiber detergents, all they are are repackaged degreasers and solvents with some foaming agents added. Dry your towels in a warm to hot dryer.
By the way, contrary to popular belief it's unlikely that polyester/nylon towels will melt in a dryer, in fact, I've never heard of it happening. The melting point of polyester is 500F, of Nylon is 505F and household clothes dryers reach a maximum temp of about 200F. Manufacturers prefer you stay away from high heat because hot spots may occur in a grossly malfunctioning dryer but in truth, I've never seen it happen. If a dryer malfunctions and reaches such high temperatures I would be more worried about my house burning down than melting some towels. Just in case thought, stick to low/mid dryer heat... better safe than sorry.
Just to clear things up though, there certainly is such a thing as cotton microfiber yarn and it's been around for a number of years now. It's especially popular in knitted fabrics used for high end bras and lingerie by such designers as Donna Karen and Calvin Klein.
Now... back on topic...
As to Woolite... it is really too mild for detailing towels, eventually they will loose their effectiveness due to insufficient cleaning. Woolite is best for lingerie, cashmere, and fine knits washed in cold water, not fabrics meant for abuse like detailing towels are. The best way to clean is simply liquid detergent in hot water. Don't waste your money on dedicated microfiber detergents, all they are are repackaged degreasers and solvents with some foaming agents added. Dry your towels in a warm to hot dryer.
By the way, contrary to popular belief it's unlikely that polyester/nylon towels will melt in a dryer, in fact, I've never heard of it happening. The melting point of polyester is 500F, of Nylon is 505F and household clothes dryers reach a maximum temp of about 200F. Manufacturers prefer you stay away from high heat because hot spots may occur in a grossly malfunctioning dryer but in truth, I've never seen it happen. If a dryer malfunctions and reaches such high temperatures I would be more worried about my house burning down than melting some towels. Just in case thought, stick to low/mid dryer heat... better safe than sorry.
#11
06-23-2008, 09:18 AM
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I use Murphy's Oil soap to wash my pads .
as for my MF's .. ALL free to wash .. adding a tablespoon of distilled white vinegar per towel.
I do three loads of MF's .. One for general use towels, one for Glass towels and Waffle weaves, and one for towels I use for product removal.
I dry on warm heat instead of high, not to avoid damage, but because I have found that it creates less static in my own dryer on warm than it does hot ..
as for my MF's .. ALL free to wash .. adding a tablespoon of distilled white vinegar per towel.
I do three loads of MF's .. One for general use towels, one for Glass towels and Waffle weaves, and one for towels I use for product removal.
I dry on warm heat instead of high, not to avoid damage, but because I have found that it creates less static in my own dryer on warm than it does hot ..
#12
06-23-2008, 11:26 AM
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OK so I just finished the detail on my truck and now have to clean up.
First when I bought my DA and pads they gave me some pad cleaner. The directions say to dilute in 4 gallons of water and change every week. So do I fill up the water and toss the pads in then rinse and let dry ? Is there an order of what pad to put in the solution first ?
Next I bought some good MF towels. Is the best way to wash them by themselves no frabric softener and them dry in the dryer ?
Who knew the cleanup would be just as hard as the last 8.5 hours I spent in the garage working on the old F150. Pics to come.
Thanks
First when I bought my DA and pads they gave me some pad cleaner. The directions say to dilute in 4 gallons of water and change every week. So do I fill up the water and toss the pads in then rinse and let dry ? Is there an order of what pad to put in the solution first ?
Next I bought some good MF towels. Is the best way to wash them by themselves no frabric softener and them dry in the dryer ?
Who knew the cleanup would be just as hard as the last 8.5 hours I spent in the garage working on the old F150. Pics to come.
Thanks
Im assuming that I have the same product as you do. I finally used it yesterday and all i did was soak the pads in the solution and agitate them and they came out clean. Hope that helps
#13
06-23-2008, 04:38 PM
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Roush, in the post you quoted from Leo he says "Just in case thought, stick to low/mid dryer heat... better safe than sorry." I'm not saying I've ever heard of or seen damage to MF by using high heat, but I've got quite a bit of money invested in my towels, and it's just not worth the risk to get them dry a couple minutes faster by using high heat.
#14
06-23-2008, 07:09 PM
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Roush, in the post you quoted from Leo he says "Just in case thought, stick to low/mid dryer heat... better safe than sorry." I'm not saying I've ever heard of or seen damage to MF by using high heat, but I've got quite a bit of money invested in my towels, and it's just not worth the risk to get them dry a couple minutes faster by using high heat.