Vinager on paint, safe or not?

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  #1  
Old 09-09-2008 | 04:58 PM
JetLincoln's Avatar
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From: Conroe, TX
Vinegar on paint, safe or not?

I am the victim (of my own doing) of my 06 Scab sitting next to my sprinkler system, running 3-5 times a week, sometimes 7. Of course, I have the dreaded water spots. I have washed with McGuires Gold Class, clayed, and used the Deep Crystal step 1 cleaner. It has taken most of it off, but if I look at it from the side, I can still see the spots faintly. I'm now off to the store to get some ColorX, as I understand its a little more abrasive, but not too much so. I did try the 2 parts water to 1 part white vinegar on my chrome step rails, and it did a very respectable job on those getting the waster spots off. Would the same mixture hurt my paint (and black plastic trim also, they are pretty spotted too) , or does anybody else have a suggestion. I don't think posting a picture would be much good since 1) I haven't done that before, and 2) as I said, they are very, very faint now and I can't really see them in the pics I have taken. Oh, btw, the truck is now going into the garage, the LOML has graciously agreed to park her car out there, especially since its a daily driver and will be gone before the sprinkler kicks on most days.

Thanks
 

Last edited by JetLincoln; 09-09-2008 at 05:00 PM. Reason: Spelling
  #2  
Old 09-09-2008 | 07:52 PM
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I would pick up some Megs #105....one pass and you're done and ready for LSP. (well, sort of but close)

It says right on the bottle, etching and acid rain are safely removed. Can be used by hand or machine.

Great product and good luck.

PM me or shoot me an email if you need more info.

RollingRock@
 
  #3  
Old 09-09-2008 | 07:55 PM
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yes you can safely use it, but it may or may not do any better than the clay you have already done...it would depend on what minerals are in your water like iron or calcium ect, ect, ect....it might be great or do nothing at all. you should be safe to try it...i have used it on glass, sometimes it works great sometimes does nothing....do you have any sort of a machine...you might do better just cutting them off with some compound, dont think colorx will get rid of them as much as hide them for a short while....and i see that the last line is it will be gone before the sprinkler kicks in most days....kill the sprinkler head that is getting your truck or you will drive yourself crazy trying to keep the spots off
 
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Old 09-09-2008 | 09:48 PM
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I did get some ColorX today, it took a little but not much off of what was left, then went ahead and tried the vinegar on a small section. Between the ColorX and the vinegar, it removed a little, but I still have very faint spots. If you lightly run your fingernail over them, you can feel the ridges around the outside of the spots. I'll try the #105, is that usually available locally at the auto parts stores, or is it an order item only? Thanks for the input, it is greatly appreciated!
 
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Old 09-09-2008 | 10:45 PM
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do you have a machine to apply the 105???
 
  #6  
Old 09-09-2008 | 11:11 PM
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All I have and I am embarrassed to say, is a random orbital polisher from sic...Harbor Freight. Needless to say, everything I do, I do by hand.
 
  #7  
Old 09-10-2008 | 12:10 AM
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M105 can be done by hand, with (from what I hear) great results.
 
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Old 09-10-2008 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by troberts6874
do you have a machine to apply the 105???
Nope. Not a necessity but, with my limited experience with it (I'm still working through a sample of it but will be ordering it - thanks Lumadar!!), it definitely works well under a cutting pad on a rotary... The neat thing about this particular product is that it doesn't break down - or only does in a very minimal fashion. In short, if the product is wet, it's working.

Pricey stuff but, it does do a fantastic job, IMO...

To the OP -- from the sounds of it, you either have mineral deposits ON TOP of the paint or they have etched into your paint. Either could have occured.

If it's the latter of those two, it's almost certain that you'll need a higher abrasive product and the use of a machine to remove the problems. The good news is that I've not met a water spot that wouldn't come out - or at least be diminished to the point that you could nearly not see it at all. The trick is knowing the machine, the product of choice, and the pad selection...

M105 is a pretty good option if you're interested in trying to go about it by hand. I will tell you that you'll likely be getting a full upper body workout by doing a significant portion of a F150 though...

Maybe it's time to enlist someone who's competent with a rotary if you don't feel comfortable with one?
 
  #9  
Old 09-10-2008 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RollingRock
I would pick up some Megs #105....one pass and you're done and ready for LSP. (well, sort of but close)

It says right on the bottle, etching and acid rain are safely removed. Can be used by hand or machine.

Great product and good luck.

PM me or shoot me an email if you need more info.

RollingRock@
Your answer is right here
 
  #10  
Old 09-21-2008 | 10:58 AM
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Sorry for the delay in getting back, but we were directly in the path of hurricane Ike, and having no electricity or gas or internet (or TV for that matter) has been interesting to say the least. I am satisfied with my results, the steps being...

1. Wash with Meg's Gold Class
2. Clay
3. DC Step 1
4. Lots of slowwww rubbing with vinegar.
5. Wash with Meg's Gold Class again
6. Clay again
7. DC Step 1 again
8. DC Step 2
9. NXT syn wax (old stlye, using it up)
10. 2nd coat NXT syn wax
11. Meg's Gold Class carnuba (will put on today)

I am pleased with the way it looks, and it will stay in the garage from now on.

Thanks for all the help guys!
 
  #11  
Old 09-22-2008 | 09:32 AM
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Glad to hear that it worked out for you, bud!
 
  #12  
Old 09-22-2008 | 10:37 AM
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Good to hear everything worked.
 



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