I suppose that is a possibility but I did one panel at a time except for the bed where I split that in two.

 

How would this cause a hazy or potentially micromarred finish?

 

If you leave the product on for too long or buffed it for too long, the product will flake/ get chalky, if you were to wipe it off when it was like this it would haze the finish of the paint. To correct this just put the 80 or whatever on again, just do the swipe test to see if your still buffing wet.
Try it.

 

Correct. This is commonly known throughout the industry in that you can induce micromarring and such by overworking or working a product until dry. Not anything new here... I've 'tried it'.

My point is that you weren't clear in that statement. Once could've easily interpreted your post as to mean that you could leave 'wax' (or anyother LSP) or just about anything on the paint too long and thus, induce a hazy look.

As you've pointed out, one should not allow an abrasive or non-abrasive polish to dry to the paint as it can certainly cause more problem than good. Additionally, when one is 'buffing' a modern catalyzed clear coat finish, one shouldn't 'work' the product until it is dry on the paint or the pad. This will cause problems in nearly all instances. I should note, this is also true BY HAND -- this isn't machine exclusive.

I've been doing this a day or two too, milk. I'm with you... just helping you clarify it out a bit as it wasn't clear. Someone may have come in, read what you wrote and assumed something... I'm just trying to make it 'less hazy'.

To further back your point, I've seen it happen SEVERAL times and have even done it, inadvertently, to client vehicles - thus causing me to have to go back over an area.

Products break down differently - some products don't break down at all but continue polishing/working while they're wet. It's very important to know the product, know it's limitations, and understand what it is and isn't capable of to achieve optimum results. A product like #80 can be worked for a while as it's an oiler product whereas #83 will set up a bit quicker. This is obviously a problem with #83 as, with it's lack of oils (compared to that of #80) and a higher diminishing abrasives content, it can be more detrimental to a surface than it can be beneficial. This is typically why I do not concur that #83 is the highest cut product that can be used on the PC. Rather, product like #80 is really your upper end if you're planning on finishing a clearcoated finish -- #83 will almost always require going back over it with another product to correct some of the marring left behind by it -- it just doesn't break down well with a PC. A rotary, on the other hand, is a totally different story...

Anyway, like I said... I was just clarifying.

-RP-

 

Lol, ok.
Thanks for re-clarifying my clarified statement.

Thought i made it clear when i was talking about 80 & 83, in the same statement but i guess not, thanks again for helping me out.