Not too long ago I backed into a parking spot and there were some low-hanging branches that had been trimmed down. They were too low for me to see but my backup sensors didn't pick them up.

Big scratch. I used the Duplicolor scratch kit. Let me first say I do not recommend this to anyone. I used the brush applicator because it was a larger scratch, and the applicator was terrible. I should have bought a foam tip applicator, but it was a bad decision on my part. So the paint is a little uneven where I fixed it, but I'm more worried about getting rid of the wet-sanding marks created during the process.

I've tried the 3M rubbing compound to no avail. Either I am using it wrong () or I need something stronger. If I'm correct the sandpaper is 2000 grit, so I assumed it would rub out no problem. Wrong. Anyone have any recommendations on rubbing compound to remove these marks?

Will try to get pics after I get out of classes today if that would help? Thanks in advance.

 

Are you working by hand or machine?? If you are working by hand I would advise picking up some kind of machine even a PC can take out wet sanding marks if used right.

I usually use a rotary for taking out wet sanding marks but i have had luck with a PC, speed six of course, a light cutting pad (LC orange) and PB SSR 2.5 if worked in it will take them out. This will need to be followed by a lighter polish, i use PB PWS.

 

I was working by hand. I'll look into a PC, thanks for the tip!

edit: Checking out Meg's G110 now.

 

megs 105 is supposed to be able to take it out.

 

Well, I hate to say this, but 2000 grit was probably too coarse- typically most use 3000, but usually nothing coarser than 2500. This may be a little past the point of recovery but you have nothing to loose at this point. Here's my recommendation..

1. using a circular buffer set at about 800 rpm (slow) and using a foam pad, apply 3M finisse II. You need to build some heat for the product to work, keep moving and don't let the pad go dry. Try a small area to see if it helps, work slowly on a 2 foot area at a time. While a good polisher is nice to have you can either rent or pick up a cheap one at Harbor freight for $50- that will work for your issue.

If you don't really see enough improvement, then try this...
1. get a 5 gallon bucket of water, add a teaspoon of dish soap for lubricant. Use 3000 grit wet sandpaper (buy from local body shop other wise you have to purchase a box of the stuff that you will never use). using a flexible sanding block (purchase one at a auto body paint supply- typically about 2" wide x 6 inches long and about 3/16" thick). Never use your bare hand, the pressure will be unequal and cause problems. Apply masking tape to all edges and raised body curves/lines to prevent contact since the elevated seams will cause excessive contact and sand off too much paint.

with a lot of soapy water very lightly surface sand the paint..do not use circular pattern, use a straight line motion with the block turned on an angle, this will remove the scratches from the 2000 grit sanding. once the surface is a consistant "white", you are done with the sanding. Use the buffer now, start with the rubbing compound, move to the finisse II and then to 3M hand glaze then wax.

Good Luck.

 

This is a nice bump but I finally got pictures of this. I've been blacking out my truck and it just makes these marks more and more noticeable. It's driving me crazy!

I really hope I didn't do anything major to screw up the paint. Looking at it again it looks like I may have rubbed too hard when I did it . Recently picked up some Turtle Wax Premium Rubbing Compound (http://www.turtlewax.com/main.taf?p=2,1,4,23) when I nite-shaded my tails. Should I give this a try? I didn't want to do anything else before ya'll actually saw pictures of what I was talking about.


What do I need to do to fix this? Help is greatly appreciated.
edit: I've been doing more reading around and from the sounds of it polishing out wet sanding marks by hand takes a long time. Could it be I'm just not doing it long enough?

 

sanding up to 1200 grit can be taken out with compound....

that being said, all wet sanding must be done with a sanding block, never with a bare hand and folded over paper....

you should try to sand in on direction as much as possible....

looking at the pics, it looks as though much more sanding should be done. why is the repainted section not cloudy??? did you not sand over the repaint??? you should use a block and resand the entire area until it is completly flat....then use a machine such as a varible speed rotary

 

The Duplicolor scratch kit I used had a small block to wrap the 2000 grit around. I didn't go in one direction, though, and after much more research learned that I should have..

The repainted section doesn't look cloudy because after putting the clear coat on I went ahead and used a compound and polisher on it. I just wanted it to look halfway decent while trying to figure out what to about the other marks.

So resanding: would I be good using say 1500 grit and working up to 2000 grit from there? Do I need to start lower or go higher on the finish? Also, I don't have a machine at the moment....would it be possible to clear up the new sanding marks by hand? Doesn't matter if it takes a long time to do, I just want them gone. Thank you for the reply!!

 

Your best bet to get them completely fixed is to find a reputable detailer in your area and let him take care of it.

While it might be able to be fixed to your satisfaction by hand, it'll be worth it in the end to let a pro handle this one.

 

i dont know how much time and money you have in it so far....but for $200 or so you could of had the entire panel repainted....

yes you can start with 1k grit then move to 12 or 1500, then to 2k grit....the higher the number the easier the final buff...i have heard of paper up to 10k but have never seen it...the highest i have seen in person is 6k but very expensive and much overkill

i would not try to buff out any color sanding without a machine....

you want to sand the entire area, over the repaint and the oem finish about 2-3 inches around the effected area, not the entire panel. use the block unitl the repaint and oem are level...use care, too much sanding and you will trash the oem clear, a block is very important here, and i think i would sand up and down with this being a long vertical scratch

when you compound the finish you would do the sourrounding area about 4-6 inches around the area that has been redone

 

Don't have much time or money in it as of yet. Just a poor college student here trying to save some money. If I had the money readily available, then believe me, I would have sent it to a body shop first thing. However, I must make do.

Thanks so much for the help!

 

i guess what is trying to be said, the price of the kit, plus machine, plus pads, plus compounds = over $200 and will still not be perfect.

part time job at walmart = about 20 or so hours on the time clock = respray....suck it up son, you are not the only one to go to school and try to work...if you already have one job get a second, if you have two get a third...not trying to be you dad i got kids of my own....but kids today (as a whole not all) could use alot more motivation.


or on jan what 20th or so, maybe obama will send you a check to get it fixed along with a house note and a free gas card

 

Did I offend you in someway?

I'm not complaining one bit. FYI I am taking mechanical engineering while working two jobs, which together equal out to a little over full time. I have yet to meet anyone else at my university that does the same. I break even every month paying rent, bills, truck, insurance, food, etc. I rely on scholarships to pay for school, so if my grades slip I'm done. Unlike a lot of the kids at my university, I don't have the luxury of driving daddy's beamer and coasting my way through.

Not sure how much more motivated you think I need to be, but I'm pretty damn stressed out right now. All I do is work and study, work and study. I would love to pay to have my tailgate resprayed, but (1) I don't have the money, and (2) I don't have the time. So forgive me if I'd like to attempt this myself to save the trouble.

I thank you for the tips on how to clear it up, and if you were trying to give friendly advice I appreciate it. It's hard to tell tone from reading text, however, and your last post offended me. I guess now you can tell me to buck up and learn to take it.

 

i thought you were thinking about buying a machine, then you need pads, then you need compound...all these items will cost over $200....it would have been cheaper just to get it done right....me and i think another are saying prior to putting more money into the problem and still not get it right, it might just be cheaper to get it done right the first time which = respray....

however since you have a kit in hand and have outlayed the cash...you should sand it all smooth and polish all the new paint and surrounding areas, not just a stripe down the middle....the sanding should be smooth, you will know when you sanded enough when you can no longer see or feel the new painted area....a block here is a must

use a spray bottle with water and a few drops of soap in it...spray as you sand....



the before sand shot (orange peel removal)


what your sanding should look like before thinking about buffing



and the way after----finished product after sanding and buffing

 

Yeah I decided to hold off on the machine for now once I figured out the cost. I see what you're saying and I completely agree with you. When I can save up I'll probably get it resprayed. I more or less just wanted it to be less noticeable for now. When I can save up for a respray I'll post more pics.


I tackled this earlier today. The touch up paint stands out when you look at it straight on due to the fact that it didn't go on as smooth as I would have liked and that it isn't a perfect color match. But it at least makes the area much less noticeable. Thanks so much for your help! I think the next thing I do to the truck will be to save up for the respray. Cheers!