anyone want to sell their DA?

 

Not sure what you're looking to spend but, they're on ebay all the time (watch G100 or 7424).

For a new PC -- Coastal Tool is a good option

The G110 appears to be pretty solid and ADS has some decent deals on kits.

Just a few options... I have a feeling that the bearings in mine are about to go... it just doesn't sound 'right'.

 

FYI- M205 is now available at ADS. I have a gallon on the way

 

What would you recommend for non severe to moderate swirls. Let's say light swirls

 

What one man calls a "light" swirl is another man's "deep" swirl.

A true light swirl would come out with M80 or the new M205.

Realistically, you will need the new ScratchX 2.0 or SwirlX, maybe even M105 to get them 100% out. It's harder than people think....

 

80 is your workhorse polish. You can use 80 most of the time, or to at least get a feel for what you're going to need. I do a test section with 80 and see how it looks. If it doesn't cut enough for me i step up to 83, then 105. Of course i have a bunch of stuff in between but that's my usual method.

Lately i've just been using 105 since this stuff is amazing


But always remember, use the least aggressive method you can.

 

This will be my first time using any type of machine when the weather breaks. and I have a few questions. I think I seen somewhere on here that 105 removes clear. Is this correct? If so does #80 or #83 remove clear? What harm can these products do?

 

105 is very aggressive yet finishes well....105 should be treated as a compound, well it is. I have used it to remove hard water spots that have etched, but it didn't get it all...going with a chemical next.

 

Sounds like some M105 is going to have to go on my spring ADS order.

 

To correct any scratch in the clear you will need to remove the surrounding clear. The reason for using the least aggressive method first is to minimize the clearcoat removal. The most important thing after taking the time for defect removal and scratch correction is to properly maintain a swirl/scratch free finish going forward. For example using 2 bucket wash method with clean microfiber. No dry wiping etc.....

There is a finite amount of clear on any paint job. Remember if it is a daily driver you might not want to attack every scratch due to clear removal. If you remove 95% of swirls and scratches and swirls and maintain correctly you are better off than 99+% of all cars on the road

 

i have not gotten into using a Da or any of that yet or professional products. i feel from being on this site i am eventually gonna get there haha. but in Jan im going to try the Swirl x in the spring. i have alot of swirls on my paint and it really shows under a street light at night time.

 

I have some hard water spots that are posing issues with coming out for me as well. What type of chemical are you talking about going with?

 

I tested Chemical Guys Hard Water Spot remover and it does work...but I ran short of time to really test it and use it properly. Beachkid also recommends Vinegar which I am also going to test.

Just know that there are differences in water spots and hard water spots and etched hard water spots. 3 different methods on solving each.

 

The type I'm talking are after you wash & detail my truck I stand back and it looks absolutely awesome. Get up on it though and look closely and you can see the outlines of the waterspots. There is absolutely no color to them, you can only see the outlines. Mostly on the hood of the truck, but also on the upper portions of the door panels.

 

You guys can read for hours on these topics over where I hang out @:
http://www.autopia.org/forum/index.php