Clay bar/paint restoration ???
#1
Clay bar/paint restoration ???
Hey, I have a 2004 fx4 that has some paint problems if you will. The hood and tailgate feel like a light grit sandpaper. I have used a claybar on the hood and it seemed to help, but didnt really smooth it out like claybars should. The paint is still very glossy, and it does seem to be responding to the clay, but can I hurt the paint with the clay if I go over it again with some extra pressure to cut thru the contaminants? Otherwise, what do you guys recommend to help restore the paint? The rest of the body panels smoothed right out with the clay and a simple cleaner wax...
#2
Clay, in and by itself, is not a correction method for paint. It's simply designed to remove surface contaminants prior to correction. That said, used correctly, clay should remove some of the rough feel from paint if it is caused by surface contamination. If the rough feel is caused by oxidation, clay won't do much for you.
As for possibly damaging your paint, if you use the clay with enough / proper lubrication, you shouldn't do much damage. Pressing really hard can cause damage though, so I wouldn't recommend it.
As for possibly damaging your paint, if you use the clay with enough / proper lubrication, you shouldn't do much damage. Pressing really hard can cause damage though, so I wouldn't recommend it.
#3
ditto.
However claybars come in a few different levels of agressivenesss. Meg's alone has a white, blue, and red. white being non-agressive and red being the most agressive. May try a more agressive bar.
However if you need a more agressive bar most will just start with the more agressive compounds/polishes.
However claybars come in a few different levels of agressivenesss. Meg's alone has a white, blue, and red. white being non-agressive and red being the most agressive. May try a more agressive bar.
However if you need a more agressive bar most will just start with the more agressive compounds/polishes.
#4
Ah..I have the white bars. I do not think that the paint is oxidized, but not sure. I havne't ever had to deal with that. I am going to wash it again with dish soap and hot water today and try the clay bar with a little extra effort and see if that cuts it. If not, I will try something more aggressive. I noticed that my local oreilys has some of the "detailing" meguiars cutting compound in the body section. I think that stuff will do it, just have to be extra careful as to not destroy the clear.....any other suggestions?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#5
Ah..I have the white bars. I do not think that the paint is oxidized, but not sure. I havne't ever had to deal with that. I am going to wash it again with dish soap and hot water today and try the clay bar with a little extra effort and see if that cuts it. If not, I will try something more aggressive. I noticed that my local oreilys has some of the "detailing" meguiars cutting compound in the body section. I think that stuff will do it, just have to be extra careful as to not destroy the clear.....any other suggestions?
Thanks!
Thanks!
I'd recommend what JGG said and try a more aggressive clay first. Then, if you've still got problems, move to a polishing (not cutting) product - but only with proper tools, techniques and guidance. Remember, wisdom comes fom experience. Experience comes from making mistakes. Learn from those of us that earned our wisdom - not by making your own mistakes. It's cheaper too!
#6
First off if your paint is a dark color DO NOT us the red clay bars you'll just do more damage. If after claying and you still feel roughness more than likely you're feeling small scratches and will require buffing. And yes you can damage the paint from claying to much from pressing down too hard it will act like real fine sandpaper and cause dulling to the finish and then need to be buffed.
Also, using dishsoap strips your vehicle of any wax and UV protectant applied to the paint and actually slowly eats off the clear coat.
Also, using dishsoap strips your vehicle of any wax and UV protectant applied to the paint and actually slowly eats off the clear coat.
#7
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#10
Well, like you said, being a silver truck, it hides a lot of imperfections. I would clay the entire truck good. Then if I had a machine I'd go over it with 205 (or similar finishing polish) and hit it with a good coat of wax. Without a machine, I'd probably pick up SwirlX from Walmart or Advanced Auto and use that in place of the 205. Actually, you can use 205 by hand as well but you're not going to find it in your regular stores.
#12
http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/m20512.html
205 is a finishing polish that uses super micro abrasive technology which means the arasives don't break down and as long as the polish remains workable and doesn't dry out, it will continue to cut. It's not available in most stores but can be ordered online. The link provided is probably the best place to buy Meguiars products and Rick (the owner) offers a sample program. Basically, you can buy a 12oz bottle rather than a 32oz or gallon. SwirlX is similar. Technically it has more cut than 205 does which means it should remove heavier defects. It's a consumer line product which means you can pick it up over-the-counter at places like Walmart and Advanced Auto (or other parts stores that carry Meguiars.) It's geared more towards the everyday joe who wants to make their ride a little better looking.
However, neither one of these may be enough to fix your problem. You may find they don't work enough. If that's the case, then something stronger (105, or OTC ScratchX2.0 or Ultimate Compound). The key is to use the least aggressive method first. Essentially what you're doing when you polish is removing tiny portions of the clear to level it out and remove the scratches. You don't want to remove more than necessary. Don't be scared though. It's not as easy as it sounds to burn through the clear. Especially by hand or PC.
205 is a finishing polish that uses super micro abrasive technology which means the arasives don't break down and as long as the polish remains workable and doesn't dry out, it will continue to cut. It's not available in most stores but can be ordered online. The link provided is probably the best place to buy Meguiars products and Rick (the owner) offers a sample program. Basically, you can buy a 12oz bottle rather than a 32oz or gallon. SwirlX is similar. Technically it has more cut than 205 does which means it should remove heavier defects. It's a consumer line product which means you can pick it up over-the-counter at places like Walmart and Advanced Auto (or other parts stores that carry Meguiars.) It's geared more towards the everyday joe who wants to make their ride a little better looking.
However, neither one of these may be enough to fix your problem. You may find they don't work enough. If that's the case, then something stronger (105, or OTC ScratchX2.0 or Ultimate Compound). The key is to use the least aggressive method first. Essentially what you're doing when you polish is removing tiny portions of the clear to level it out and remove the scratches. You don't want to remove more than necessary. Don't be scared though. It's not as easy as it sounds to burn through the clear. Especially by hand or PC.
#14