Did Some Detailing Today (Used Peanut Butter Too)
#16
Thanks!..but after geting a good look at it today in the morning sun I found that there are a lot more swirls (light swirls) than I thought. :o
After speaking with Chris from eShine and asking about #105 compared to some of the other Optimum products (I like Optimum so I'd like to stick with it, and the price is reasonable), he actually recommended Optimum Compound 2 with an orange pad.
After speaking with Chris from eShine and asking about #105 compared to some of the other Optimum products (I like Optimum so I'd like to stick with it, and the price is reasonable), he actually recommended Optimum Compound 2 with an orange pad.
#17
Thanks!..but after geting a good look at it today in the morning sun I found that there are a lot more swirls (light swirls) than I thought. :o
After speaking with Chris from eShine and asking about #105 compared to some of the other Optimum products (I like Optimum so I'd like to stick with it, and the price is reasonable), he actually recommended Optimum Compound 2 with an orange pad.
After speaking with Chris from eShine and asking about #105 compared to some of the other Optimum products (I like Optimum so I'd like to stick with it, and the price is reasonable), he actually recommended Optimum Compound 2 with an orange pad.
I had a good laugh in that other post when everyone started wondering if the peanut butter tip was a joke or not.
Poli-Seal is easy to work with but I never used a green pad with it very long. I have used the Optimum Compound 2 and Poli-Seal with a white pads but I don't know how bad your paint is to say what will work or you may need to use something stronger. I HAD to use M105.
Something I learned is that you may need to do an alcohol wipe after ONR before you polish since ONR may leave something (what makes it slick feeling) behind that may make polishing and compounding more work than necessary or just use soap when you know you are going to
I love Optimum products also.
#18
Lighting is a funny thing with black. Gone today, here tomorrow.
I had a good laugh in that other post when everyone started wondering if the peanut butter tip was a joke or not.
Poli-Seal is easy to work with but I never used a green pad with it very long. I have used the Optimum Compound 2 and Poli-Seal with a white pads but I don't know how bad your paint is to say what will work or you may need to use something stronger. I HAD to use M105.
Something I learned is that you may need to do an alcohol wipe after ONR before you polish since ONR may leave something (what makes it slick feeling) behind that may make polishing and compounding more work than necessary or just use soap when you know you are going to
I love Optimum products also.
I had a good laugh in that other post when everyone started wondering if the peanut butter tip was a joke or not.
Poli-Seal is easy to work with but I never used a green pad with it very long. I have used the Optimum Compound 2 and Poli-Seal with a white pads but I don't know how bad your paint is to say what will work or you may need to use something stronger. I HAD to use M105.
Something I learned is that you may need to do an alcohol wipe after ONR before you polish since ONR may leave something (what makes it slick feeling) behind that may make polishing and compounding more work than necessary or just use soap when you know you are going to
I love Optimum products also.
Hi Old Dogg.
From what I've read, and been told, OC2 is the same as #105, for the most part, but has a longer working time and doesn't dust.
I used PS after the ONR, so I was under the impression that PS cleans anything off anyway.
Either way, OC2 and some orange pads should be here on Monday. We'll see how she goes. The few swirls that are left should be gone IMO, but what do I know? I'm a noob, but Chris (eshine) did recommend the OC2 over the 105, and he's a Ford guy if that makes any difference.
#19
Hi Old Dogg.
From what I've read, and been told, OC2 is the same as #105, for the most part, but has a longer working time and doesn't dust.
I used PS after the ONR, so I was under the impression that PS cleans anything off anyway.
Either way, OC2 and some orange pads should be here on Monday. We'll see how she goes. The few swirls that are left should be gone IMO, but what do I know? I'm a noob, but Chris (eshine) did recommend the OC2 over the 105, and he's a Ford guy if that makes any difference.
From what I've read, and been told, OC2 is the same as #105, for the most part, but has a longer working time and doesn't dust.
I used PS after the ONR, so I was under the impression that PS cleans anything off anyway.
Either way, OC2 and some orange pads should be here on Monday. We'll see how she goes. The few swirls that are left should be gone IMO, but what do I know? I'm a noob, but Chris (eshine) did recommend the OC2 over the 105, and he's a Ford guy if that makes any difference.
I tried an orange pad with Poli-Seal trying to get it to cut and the orange pad left some marring of it's own to be polished out by a softer (white) pad. Same thing happened with OC2.
Poli-Seal is a very mild polish and sealant. Since it has no abrasives it's only going to make minor corrections. I think it corrects from lube and the buffing pad. It also leaves a polymer sealant of some sort so it would be an intermediate last step prior to wax you would use after OC2.
In my opinion OC2 is closer to M205 than M105 which could be closer to Optimum Hyper Compound which I have never used since I already have M105.
After spending hours doing it other ways I fixed my major problems with M105 and now except for some special spots I don't need it anymore but it corrected some serious defects with a few passes.
Once the paint is right everything in a detail will go quickly from then on.
You have to use something that gives you the best results in the least amount of time with the least work.
#20
Im a noob also but I have learned a few things about Optimum products from using them, talking to the guy I bought them from and reading on a few sites.
I tried an orange pad with Poli-Seal trying to get it to cut and the orange pad left some marring of it's own to be polished out by a softer (white) pad. Same thing happened with OC2.
Poli-Seal is a very mild polish and sealant. Since it has no abrasives it's only going to make minor corrections. I think it corrects from lube and the buffing pad. It also leaves a polymer sealant of some sort so it would be an intermediate last step prior to wax you would use after OC2.
In my opinion OC2 is closer to M205 than M105 which could be closer to Optimum Hyper Compound which I have never used since I already have M105.
After spending hours doing it other ways I fixed my major problems with M105 and now except for some special spots I don't need it anymore but it corrected some serious defects with a few passes.
Once the paint is right everything in a detail will go quickly from then on.
You have to use something that gives you the best results in the least amount of time with the least work.
I tried an orange pad with Poli-Seal trying to get it to cut and the orange pad left some marring of it's own to be polished out by a softer (white) pad. Same thing happened with OC2.
Poli-Seal is a very mild polish and sealant. Since it has no abrasives it's only going to make minor corrections. I think it corrects from lube and the buffing pad. It also leaves a polymer sealant of some sort so it would be an intermediate last step prior to wax you would use after OC2.
In my opinion OC2 is closer to M205 than M105 which could be closer to Optimum Hyper Compound which I have never used since I already have M105.
After spending hours doing it other ways I fixed my major problems with M105 and now except for some special spots I don't need it anymore but it corrected some serious defects with a few passes.
Once the paint is right everything in a detail will go quickly from then on.
You have to use something that gives you the best results in the least amount of time with the least work.
Poli Seal does in fact contain very mild abrasives Old Dogg. It doesn't hide, but rather corects very light swirls.
Optimum Poli-SealTM contains micro abrasives that eliminate (not hide) minor surface imperfections.
I'm using PS as my LSP because I'm just that, a lazy foker. Whatever I can find to reduce the steps, and work, I'm there.
I'm surprised to hear you had marring with the orange pad and OC. Many claim the shine from those two things alone is outstanding.
I'm hoping to get at it on Monday. We'll see.
#23
Oh, with something like #105 or OC2? If I do get marring, will the green pad and PS fix it?
I'm sorry; it was Kraft smooth peanut butter.
I'm sorry; it was Kraft smooth peanut butter.
#24
I've never used the combo so it would just be a guess. Poli seal doesn't have very much cut at all. I honestly wouldn't use it for any real correction but more of a maintenance product. Over time you're going to induce subtle marring one way or another even with the best of techniques. This is where I would utilize poli seal. I especially wouldn't make multiple passes with it and this is opinion but with it leaving protection behind, the cleaners/polishes in it will have to get through the wax the previous pass left before it can do anything more to the paint itself. If I'm wrong I hope someone with a bit more experience with it corrects me. If the marring is subtle, almost like a hazing which is what I got on my roof after using 105 and an orange pad, I would be willing to put some money on poli seal working great on it. I haven't used OC2 yet but it is on my list of things to order next. Do you have anything else such as a fine or intermediate polish that you can step down to with a white pad? What other pads do you have? I really have no idea how OC2 finishes down. Maybe someone like Juztang will see this and comment as he has more experience with this and the entire Optimum line up.
#25
Esf, right now I only have green pads. The reason being is it's supposedly the best pad to use with an all in one, like PS. It has more cut than a white pad but less than the orange.
Why will there be marring over time?
I'm all for best results with least amount of work. As long as the paint is defect free and shiney, I'm good. It may not be the best, but to me, it looks damn fine.
Hey, my neighbor even commented on the truck after I finished it the other day, and she's the last person I'd expect to even notice something like a shiney vehicle, so that made me feel pretty good.
The orange pads and OC2 should arrive on Monday, but that's all I'll have available to me, other than the green pads and PS.
Oh, I also have a full bottle of Klasse AIO and Klasse Sealant, but I've only used them once on the Mustang. I found it too much work and too finicky to use. What a waste of money that was.
Use this foam to apply one-step cleaner waxes. It is a balance of polishing and finishing that is perfect for all-in-one product application.
I'm all for best results with least amount of work. As long as the paint is defect free and shiney, I'm good. It may not be the best, but to me, it looks damn fine.
Hey, my neighbor even commented on the truck after I finished it the other day, and she's the last person I'd expect to even notice something like a shiney vehicle, so that made me feel pretty good.
The orange pads and OC2 should arrive on Monday, but that's all I'll have available to me, other than the green pads and PS.
Oh, I also have a full bottle of Klasse AIO and Klasse Sealant, but I've only used them once on the Mustang. I found it too much work and too finicky to use. What a waste of money that was.
#26
A lot of people really like Klasse AIO. Mostly I see it mentioned on Autopia. I imagine you could make some of your money back by selling it. Just have to make sure the right people see it. Some forums make you pay a fee to sell things.
The reason you are going to see marring over time is because no mater how hard you try, you're going to eventually put swirls back in whether it be during the wash itself or by drying it. QDs have been know to marr paint as well. Even more aggressive clays can marr the paint. Paint is relatively soft and doesn't take much to scratch it. You can really limit the amount of it drastically by using the correct techniques but you will eventually get them. I haven't polished my Expedition since early fall and I have extremely fine, hard to find swirls but they are there. Most of the time I can't even find them when I'm looking for them. I usually just stumble across them while drying but then I can't find them again when I'm looking for them.
The reason you are going to see marring over time is because no mater how hard you try, you're going to eventually put swirls back in whether it be during the wash itself or by drying it. QDs have been know to marr paint as well. Even more aggressive clays can marr the paint. Paint is relatively soft and doesn't take much to scratch it. You can really limit the amount of it drastically by using the correct techniques but you will eventually get them. I haven't polished my Expedition since early fall and I have extremely fine, hard to find swirls but they are there. Most of the time I can't even find them when I'm looking for them. I usually just stumble across them while drying but then I can't find them again when I'm looking for them.
#27
A lot of people really like Klasse AIO. Mostly I see it mentioned on Autopia. I imagine you could make some of your money back by selling it. Just have to make sure the right people see it. Some forums make you pay a fee to sell things.
The reason you are going to see marring over time is because no mater how hard you try, you're going to eventually put swirls back in whether it be during the wash itself or by drying it. QDs have been know to marr paint as well. Even more aggressive clays can marr the paint. Paint is relatively soft and doesn't take much to scratch it. You can really limit the amount of it drastically by using the correct techniques but you will eventually get them. I haven't polished my Expedition since early fall and I have extremely fine, hard to find swirls but they are there. Most of the time I can't even find them when I'm looking for them. I usually just stumble across them while drying but then I can't find them again when I'm looking for them.
The reason you are going to see marring over time is because no mater how hard you try, you're going to eventually put swirls back in whether it be during the wash itself or by drying it. QDs have been know to marr paint as well. Even more aggressive clays can marr the paint. Paint is relatively soft and doesn't take much to scratch it. You can really limit the amount of it drastically by using the correct techniques but you will eventually get them. I haven't polished my Expedition since early fall and I have extremely fine, hard to find swirls but they are there. Most of the time I can't even find them when I'm looking for them. I usually just stumble across them while drying but then I can't find them again when I'm looking for them.
Ah okay. Well that's how much of a noob I am then. I always thought marring was worse than swirl marks. Now I learn that marring is just another term used for swirl marks. Now I get it.
Yes, my goal is to get the truck up to snuff and then just maintain it. I'll use the compound once every spring due to soft cloth washes during the winter months, but I'll only PS it once before winter.
#28
#29
Poli Seal does in fact contain very mild abrasives Old Dogg. It doesn't hide, but rather corects very light swirls.
I'm surprised to hear you had marring with the orange pad and OC. Many claim the shine from those two things alone is outstanding.
I'm hoping to get at it on Monday. We'll see.
I'm surprised to hear you had marring with the orange pad and OC. Many claim the shine from those two things alone is outstanding.
I'm hoping to get at it on Monday. We'll see.
The orange pad is very firm compared to white or even green pads. Regardless of product you may get a slight haze (I call micro marring) you have to go back over with a milder pad. I only noticed it with OC2 at certain angles on the hood in direct sun. It was like a dull look under the shine unlike swirls which look directionally swirly or mostly circular.