Swirl marks after buffing and waxing.... how to fix
#1
Swirl marks after buffing and waxing.... how to fix
I recently buffed my truck using Meguiars Machine Glaze #3 with a wool pad. Now in the shade it looks like glass(aside from the ****ty factory orange peel) but in the sunlight it looks like I have a halo or hologram effect swirling. How would I get rid of this? Ive been reading a little online saying that Meguiars 205 and then 105 would work for me or their swirl remover compound....
My old man used to repair and paint cars but that was back in the 70s before they had clearcoats and everything was single stage paint. He hasnt done bodywork in a while so the new clearcoats and polishes are new to him, so I just used this becuz its what he had and used it on his cars.
Any suggestions?
Below are pics of the truck in the shade Ill snap some in the sunlight tomorrow.
My old man used to repair and paint cars but that was back in the 70s before they had clearcoats and everything was single stage paint. He hasnt done bodywork in a while so the new clearcoats and polishes are new to him, so I just used this becuz its what he had and used it on his cars.
Any suggestions?
Below are pics of the truck in the shade Ill snap some in the sunlight tomorrow.
#2
A couple things. First, in reference to the 105/205 combo, you would use 105 first since it's more aggressive and then follow it with 205 which is a finer polish. The finer polish (205) will remove any hazing left from the 105. Secondly, M03 is a very fine, rotary-only polish. What machine were you using? Rather than using an aggressive wool pad you should try using a polishing pad like Meg's yellow pad or LCs white pad. They'll finish down a lot nicer, especially with such a fine polish.
It's hard to tell but it looks like you can see some hazing about an inch under the tail light in that second picture.
It's hard to tell but it looks like you can see some hazing about an inch under the tail light in that second picture.
#4
This is what I'm totally afraid of....
it will probably be a while before I use a DA machine on my truck. Right now, the paint is new (9 months) and so far, I'm just giving it hand waxings.
On the other hand, my car is 2 1/2 years old, and totally covered with micro scratches. It needs machine polishing badly right NOW !
So, teamlowes, does it "have to be" a Porter Cable brand DA machine ? Wouldn't a Meguiars brand be okay, as long as it was the DA type, also ?
That's the one I had been planning to buy soon, along with a bunch of supplies (polish, wax, pads, etc) and then had planned to do some hard-core experimenting on the little car first....
So that when it came time for the truck, I'd already have a little experience, and maybe half a clue.
Hmmmm.....
Fish
PS, I hate swirl marks > more than < dull paint, and micro-scratches !
On the other hand, my car is 2 1/2 years old, and totally covered with micro scratches. It needs machine polishing badly right NOW !
So, teamlowes, does it "have to be" a Porter Cable brand DA machine ? Wouldn't a Meguiars brand be okay, as long as it was the DA type, also ?
That's the one I had been planning to buy soon, along with a bunch of supplies (polish, wax, pads, etc) and then had planned to do some hard-core experimenting on the little car first....
So that when it came time for the truck, I'd already have a little experience, and maybe half a clue.
Hmmmm.....
Fish
PS, I hate swirl marks > more than < dull paint, and micro-scratches !
#7
Secondly, M03 is a very fine, rotary-only polish. What machine were you using? Rather than using an aggressive wool pad you should try using a polishing pad like Meg's yellow pad or LCs white pad. They'll finish down a lot nicer, especially with such a fine polish.
It's hard to tell but it looks like you can see some hazing about an inch under the tail light in that second picture.
It's hard to tell but it looks like you can see some hazing about an inch under the tail light in that second picture.
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#8
why a wool pad with a Glaze GB Black Lariat?
My old man used to repair and paint cars but that was back in the 70s before they had clearcoats and everything was single stage paint. He hasnt done bodywork in a while so the new clearcoats and polishes are new to him, so I just used this becuz its what he had and used it on his cars.
#13
victim of the wool pad...now if he is using rotary, every one will read this and be scared and tell other that it will trash your paint...yes a rotary with wool can quickly make alot of work for you...
this repair can be tricky to guess at with only pics...the depth of the scratches would have to be seen in person...someone that has done this repair prior or is familiar with a certain brand combo of pads (foam) and compounds to clean it up....
this is a chance for everyone to learn....dont tear *** into the entire vehicle...do small sections at a time and check your work...if the combo you are doing is working well, then continue on...dont do the entire truck then relize that you made alot more work for yourself.
lighter color or metallic might be able to get away with one compound step, but being black...i would plan on 2 compounds and one machine glaze, three pads to get it better than when you started....what compounds glazes or pads..its a shot in the dark without seeing in person.
a rotary with wool trying to be repaired with one compound and a da...i would like to see the time that took...---i can just imagine your dad showing you how he used to spin the wool 30 years ago, i see alot of speed letting the pad do the work or damage.
this repair can be tricky to guess at with only pics...the depth of the scratches would have to be seen in person...someone that has done this repair prior or is familiar with a certain brand combo of pads (foam) and compounds to clean it up....
this is a chance for everyone to learn....dont tear *** into the entire vehicle...do small sections at a time and check your work...if the combo you are doing is working well, then continue on...dont do the entire truck then relize that you made alot more work for yourself.
lighter color or metallic might be able to get away with one compound step, but being black...i would plan on 2 compounds and one machine glaze, three pads to get it better than when you started....what compounds glazes or pads..its a shot in the dark without seeing in person.
a rotary with wool trying to be repaired with one compound and a da...i would like to see the time that took...---i can just imagine your dad showing you how he used to spin the wool 30 years ago, i see alot of speed letting the pad do the work or damage.
#14
The g100 was.. No one knows for sure who makes the g110.. heck even lumadar can't tell us
And old dogg.. I can finish with a wool pad. There are several different kinds. I actually prefer wool to foam, but sometimes you just don't have a choice but to finish with foam on a d/a
And old dogg.. I can finish with a wool pad. There are several different kinds. I actually prefer wool to foam, but sometimes you just don't have a choice but to finish with foam on a d/a
#15