Turtle Wax "Ice Clay Kit"
#18
05-18-2009, 07:12 PM
TW and Meg's clay bar are really poor quality even if you compare claybar products- typically equivalent to using 3000 grit on your paint. i dod not recommend claybar for any oem paint but if you are determined to buy the marketing hype, then contact West Coast Auto Supplies 818-339-7469 or "Nester" at 323-462-8601 and they will sell you a very good quality claybar product.
#19
05-18-2009, 07:50 PM
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#20
05-19-2009, 06:23 PM
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TW and Meg's clay bar are really poor quality even if you compare claybar products- typically equivalent to using 3000 grit on your paint. i dod not recommend claybar for any oem paint but if you are determined to buy the marketing hype, then contact West Coast Auto Supplies 818-339-7469 or "Nester" at 323-462-8601 and they will sell you a very good quality claybar product.
If you don't recommend it for OEM paint, what do you recommend ?
#22
05-19-2009, 09:57 PM
The Turtle is a LIQUID claybar. That said, it's NOTHING like a regular claybar (patented by Clay Magic).
Further, the reason that Turtle Wax has survived is because they've been bought and sold three or four times over the past 10 years... and, the main place that they vend is WAL MART.
9 out of 10 people walking in to Wally World are looking for something to make the vehicle 'shine'. What they don't know is going in and slathering Crisco on a vehicle will make it shine and protect it just about as well. That's not to say that all of their products are junk but, I can say that ICE is garbage (yes, I've tried it and wouldn't even give it away free to a neighbor).
Every person has an individual amount of time that they want to spend to achieve 'results'. If one wants to use a 'one step' product to attempt to minimize/remove/fill some problems and protect in one step - no problem. Try a product like Meguiar's NXT, Mother's Synwax, or even Eagle One NanoWax.
If one wants to spend a few hours, step it up and clay, then polish then wax with reputable products from Mother's or Meguiar's.
If one wants to set their vehicle apart from the rest, utilize professional-grade products from any one of a bunch of vendors (like Meguiar's, Poorboy's, 3M, Pinnacle, etc... etc... etc... etc...) and go through the steps necessary to make it happen...
There's no silver bullet out there... ICE isn't even 'BB-gun' caliber when it comes to bullets.
-RP-
Further, the reason that Turtle Wax has survived is because they've been bought and sold three or four times over the past 10 years... and, the main place that they vend is WAL MART.
9 out of 10 people walking in to Wally World are looking for something to make the vehicle 'shine'. What they don't know is going in and slathering Crisco on a vehicle will make it shine and protect it just about as well. That's not to say that all of their products are junk but, I can say that ICE is garbage (yes, I've tried it and wouldn't even give it away free to a neighbor).
Every person has an individual amount of time that they want to spend to achieve 'results'. If one wants to use a 'one step' product to attempt to minimize/remove/fill some problems and protect in one step - no problem. Try a product like Meguiar's NXT, Mother's Synwax, or even Eagle One NanoWax.
If one wants to spend a few hours, step it up and clay, then polish then wax with reputable products from Mother's or Meguiar's.
If one wants to set their vehicle apart from the rest, utilize professional-grade products from any one of a bunch of vendors (like Meguiar's, Poorboy's, 3M, Pinnacle, etc... etc... etc... etc...) and go through the steps necessary to make it happen...
There's no silver bullet out there... ICE isn't even 'BB-gun' caliber when it comes to bullets.
-RP-
I must say, for my first time using a clay bar I feel this product worked so well. Prior to using the actual clay bar, the paint (especially on the roof and hood) felt very rough. It took out so many of the imperfections that were stuck in the top coat. Now, after waxing, the finish is incredibly smooth. Not a single imperfection that I can feel. It also removed all kinds of little spots that just wouldn't seem to come out of the paint.
If people don't like this product and feel it's not the best, I completely understand. But I will say in my honest opinion, it did a great job and made the finish on my truck smoother than brand new.
Last edited by 2008_XL; 05-19-2009 at 10:03 PM.
#23
05-19-2009, 10:28 PM
TW and Meg's clay bar are really poor quality even if you compare claybar products- typically equivalent to using 3000 grit on your paint. i dod not recommend claybar for any oem paint but if you are determined to buy the marketing hype, then contact West Coast Auto Supplies 818-339-7469 or "Nester" at 323-462-8601 and they will sell you a very good quality claybar product.
Who are you?
How would you get rid of surface containments?
And you know almost all clay comes from clay magic right? In fact i think it all does now
#24
05-19-2009, 11:54 PM
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What wax did you use when you were done with the clay? If you used Ice, then I would strong;y suggest waxing again in a week or so with something that will last, so you don't waste all of the effort you put into claying.
#25
05-20-2009, 11:46 AM
TW and Meg's clay bar are really poor quality even if you compare claybar products- typically equivalent to using 3000 grit on your paint. i dod not recommend claybar for any oem paint but if you are determined to buy the marketing hype, then contact West Coast Auto Supplies 818-339-7469 or "Nester" at 323-462-8601 and they will sell you a very good quality claybar product.
Beech, you've been taken to task on this item OODLES of times and have yet to produce ANY thing that remotely supports your claim, stature, or paradigm regarding why a claybar is such a horrible item.
Offer up some substantiated, supported, and steadfast data or simply stop beating your 'clay is bad' drum. I'm tired of it. Lots of others are too.
We that do this as a primary profession or as a secondary profession understand the limitations of a claybar but, at the same time, we understand that it *works* for exactly what it's meant to do; remove bonded contamination from the painted surface which should be done as a prep step before any full detail - or even before one smacks a coat of a wax (or similar) on a painted surface.
You're entitled to an opinion; I respect that and value that but, I also think that one should be held accountable for their opinion and offer some substantiated information rather than jumping in, stirring the pot, and then vanishing.
Belly up to the bar, sir.
-RP-
#26
05-20-2009, 11:49 AM
I know they make the liquid clay, however, this Turtle Wax clay kit I bought is not just a liquid clay. It does in fact come with a 100g clay bar and clay lube. I used this product and it worked so so well.
I must say, for my first time using a clay bar I feel this product worked so well. Prior to using the actual clay bar, the paint (especially on the roof and hood) felt very rough. It took out so many of the imperfections that were stuck in the top coat. Now, after waxing, the finish is incredibly smooth. Not a single imperfection that I can feel. It also removed all kinds of little spots that just wouldn't seem to come out of the paint.
If people don't like this product and feel it's not the best, I completely understand. But I will say in my honest opinion, it did a great job and made the finish on my truck smoother than brand new.
I must say, for my first time using a clay bar I feel this product worked so well. Prior to using the actual clay bar, the paint (especially on the roof and hood) felt very rough. It took out so many of the imperfections that were stuck in the top coat. Now, after waxing, the finish is incredibly smooth. Not a single imperfection that I can feel. It also removed all kinds of little spots that just wouldn't seem to come out of the paint.
If people don't like this product and feel it's not the best, I completely understand. But I will say in my honest opinion, it did a great job and made the finish on my truck smoother than brand new.
My opinion wasn't as high but, the possibility exists that I didn't utilize it correctly or simply found it to be more cumbersome than other methodologies that I've utilized.
Again, what matters most in the detailing world is that it works well for the user; not what everyone else thinks.
-RP-
#27
05-20-2009, 01:50 PM
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I gave up on all the ice products but I may try the liqued clay. I use mainly meguires for everything. I think megiures has a clay bar kit that I may get and use. My truck shows the mud and dirt from the past winter and needs a good cleaning. I also need to get a good hand buffer and some good pads so I doesnt take me hours to complete the task. lol.
#28
05-20-2009, 02:25 PM
I used the liquid claybar... worked great, no miracles, but definetly cleaned up the rocker panels from the use of my truck's last owner. I like Ice products from what I have used and as Rockpick stated, use what's best for you. I take pride in my truck, one of the cleaner 150's in my town and I do not use top line products. I bought some mothers step 2, and some of their cleaner wax. Yesterday I used step 2, the paste, and then Meg's step 3 Carnuba on my hood and I liked the result. I have been doing this as I wash my truck (use those 3 parts each time I wash my truck, doing a portion of the truck each week) and it gives me some longevity and protection. I think the Ice paste is a good "in between" serious details. I tend to wax the truck every 3-4 weeks, so there is always protection. If it works well for you, use it 
#29
05-20-2009, 02:52 PM
Also, Rockpick - What should I use next time? I think I should be fine for a while as the finish is super smooth right now. I would like to clay at least once a year. Should I clay more often? Thanks man.
Last edited by 2008_XL; 05-20-2009 at 02:54 PM.
#30
05-20-2009, 03:01 PM
"marketing hype".
Beech, you've been taken to task on this item OODLES of times and have yet to produce ANY thing that remotely supports your claim, stature, or paradigm regarding why a claybar is such a horrible item.
Offer up some substantiated, supported, and steadfast data or simply stop beating your 'clay is bad' drum. I'm tired of it. Lots of others are too.
We that do this as a primary profession or as a secondary profession understand the limitations of a claybar but, at the same time, we understand that it *works* for exactly what it's meant to do; remove bonded contamination from the painted surface which should be done as a prep step before any full detail - or even before one smacks a coat of a wax (or similar) on a painted surface.
You're entitled to an opinion; I respect that and value that but, I also think that one should be held accountable for their opinion and offer some substantiated information rather than jumping in, stirring the pot, and then vanishing.
Belly up to the bar, sir.
-RP-
Beech, you've been taken to task on this item OODLES of times and have yet to produce ANY thing that remotely supports your claim, stature, or paradigm regarding why a claybar is such a horrible item.
Offer up some substantiated, supported, and steadfast data or simply stop beating your 'clay is bad' drum. I'm tired of it. Lots of others are too.
We that do this as a primary profession or as a secondary profession understand the limitations of a claybar but, at the same time, we understand that it *works* for exactly what it's meant to do; remove bonded contamination from the painted surface which should be done as a prep step before any full detail - or even before one smacks a coat of a wax (or similar) on a painted surface.
You're entitled to an opinion; I respect that and value that but, I also think that one should be held accountable for their opinion and offer some substantiated information rather than jumping in, stirring the pot, and then vanishing.
Belly up to the bar, sir.
-RP-
X2 and well said.
I haven't been in the detailer forum for long, but since I have I've also noticed this about beechkid. He flutters in, makes a statement and never returns to back up his claims.
beechkid's credibilty = zero.