Thinking of cleaning the truck up good. Help!
#16
05-07-2009, 05:57 PM
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Yea I used to have a black chevy and I had to wax it all the time to keep it decent. This one I can just spray off at the car wash at it looks "pretty good". I can even drive it down a gravel road and it's not too bad.
I usually let it air dry after the car wash. But I have some of these at home that I used to use. I've used these on every car I had since high school.
I haven't noticed any swirls in the paint. But then again I haven't payed enough attention to the paint to get close and notice anything.
But there's nothing obvious in it.
The clay kit came with a small Megs cleaning wax bottle.
What about the Megs gold wax? Save that for a second wax down the road after this detail is done? Or take it back and always use a cleaner wax.
Thanks for the help Old Dogg.!
I usually let it air dry after the car wash. But I have some of these at home that I used to use. I've used these on every car I had since high school.
I haven't noticed any swirls in the paint. But then again I haven't payed enough attention to the paint to get close and notice anything.
But there's nothing obvious in it.
The clay kit came with a small Megs cleaning wax bottle.
What about the Megs gold wax? Save that for a second wax down the road after this detail is done? Or take it back and always use a cleaner wax.
Thanks for the help Old Dogg.!
The cleaner wax that came with the clay kit is supposed to be a sample. You may get 1 complete cleaner wax job out of it. Just remember like glc said and follow the directions on the bottle.
If it was me I would immediately follow the cleaner wax with the Gold Class Wax or some NXT and/or wait a few days or maybe a week with the Gold Class Wax after the next wash job... but that may be a month in your case.
Cleaner wax will chemically deep clean and protect paint with emphasis on clean.
The Gold Class Wax only protects.
Hope I helped...Good Luck!
#17
05-07-2009, 06:02 PM
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#18
05-08-2009, 01:31 AM
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#19
05-08-2009, 01:36 AM
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#21
05-08-2009, 07:54 AM
First, rent a couple sections of scaffolding to work off of. 
Second, you're never gonna touch the swirl marks w/o a Dual action buffer like a Porter Cable 7424.
You may get some decent results by hand by using Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Swirl X (both available at Wally World).
NXT 2.0 is a good LSP for the final shine.
Jim
Second, you're never gonna touch the swirl marks w/o a Dual action buffer like a Porter Cable 7424.
You may get some decent results by hand by using Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Swirl X (both available at Wally World).
NXT 2.0 is a good LSP for the final shine.
Jim
#22
05-08-2009, 11:48 AM
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First, rent a couple sections of scaffolding to work off of.
Second, you're never gonna touch the swirl marks w/o a Dual action buffer like a Porter Cable 7424.
You may get some decent results by hand by using Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Swirl X (both available at Wally World).
NXT 2.0 is a good LSP for the final shine.
Jim
Second, you're never gonna touch the swirl marks w/o a Dual action buffer like a Porter Cable 7424.
You may get some decent results by hand by using Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Swirl X (both available at Wally World).
NXT 2.0 is a good LSP for the final shine.
Jim
I don't really have swirl marks so that's not a problem.
The hail damage is however.
It's gonna take a new hood and repar to the drivers fender.
I could care less about the top of the cab. No one can see that anyway!
I've got a SMALL little engine modd that needs to get done before any body repair is done!!!!!!
#23
05-08-2009, 02:50 PM
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#25
05-08-2009, 04:15 PM
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Well the hood is fiberglass. It's the worst.
The dents in the fender could probabaly be done by one of those guy's, but my father is a retired body man so I could fix those dents myself.
Since I would have to paint the hood anyway.
Either that or just go buy a new hood and fender from the junk yard and paint them up.
The dents in the fender could probabaly be done by one of those guy's, but my father is a retired body man so I could fix those dents myself.
Since I would have to paint the hood anyway.
Either that or just go buy a new hood and fender from the junk yard and paint them up.
#26
05-08-2009, 04:57 PM
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You almost had me going...I was thinking how could this be.
Truck looks much better...even your last photos look much more like you know what you are doing.
Next you need to get some Optimum No Rinse Wash.
It will make you wash more often as you fall down the rabbit hole.
#27
05-08-2009, 05:08 PM
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It's just so hard to keep it clean around here cause I'm always going down a gravel road.
I'll bet claying really makes a difference on darker vehicles.
I'll post up some more pics when I'm done.
Thanks again for the tips!
Oh....can I clay my chrome bumper?
#28
05-08-2009, 05:22 PM
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You could and I have but its a waste waste of time and resources since you can be much more careless and use much harsher/cheaper/faster methods to clean contaminants off chrome versus clear coat.
Mild claying is the least aggressive way to mechanically surface clean clear coat.
Mild claying is the least aggressive way to mechanically surface clean clear coat.
#29
05-08-2009, 05:25 PM
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#30
05-08-2009, 09:15 PM
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