Just bought a polisher ????
#1
Just bought a polisher ????
Okay just to get started and learn how to do this. I went to harbor freight and got the 7" varible speed polisher/sander. Cant beat the price for 30 bucks but anyway i am going to learn how to do the correct method on my old 1980 Chevy C30 Dually. My question is what over the counter product from walmart autozone etc that i can use to get rid of the texas pinstripes thats on the fenders? There not that bad at all. Im just looking for a product that will get the scratches out im not in all the terms for the number of the compounds and all that, Thanks again
#2
Ultimate Compound, Swirl X, or Scratch X 2.0 should do you good in terms of OTC correction products, depending on the severity of the scratch. I know 3M also has some rubbing compound and a finishing product, but I don't know how they compare with the Megs products.
There are some Advanced Autos that carry Meg's pads.
There are some Advanced Autos that carry Meg's pads.
#3
Ultimate Compound, Swirl X, or Scratch X 2.0 should do you good in terms of OTC correction products, depending on the severity of the scratch. I know 3M also has some rubbing compound and a finishing product, but I don't know how they compare with the Megs products.
There are some Advanced Autos that carry Meg's pads.
There are some Advanced Autos that carry Meg's pads.
#5
Well hey now.....
I'm so glad KingRanch posted this.....
Because I had been led to believe, that "oribital" polishers sucked, and were WAY more likely to induce swirl marks.
But recently, I was talking to a buddy who used an orbital buffer in a shop, on customers cars, and also at an airport, on million dollar aircrafts, and he never had swirlmarks. He said that swirls have everything to do with the pads, and polishing products being used (and pushing too hard).
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
But hey pmason, you said
Uh.... well maybe if you have money
I've been waiting for 6 months, because I didn't have $250 for a G110, pads, polish, wax, etc, etc.
If I believed that a cheap oribital buffer would give me the same, swirl free results, I'd already have one.
So, tell me again..... Is a Dual Action polisher / buffer the only way to go ? .... even if your poor like me ?
BTW, I'd rather have dull, funky, paint covered with micro scratches > than swirlmarks ! NOTHING looks worse than swirl marks ! Bird $#!+ looks better than swirlmarks !
Anybody ?
Fish
Because I had been led to believe, that "oribital" polishers sucked, and were WAY more likely to induce swirl marks.
But recently, I was talking to a buddy who used an orbital buffer in a shop, on customers cars, and also at an airport, on million dollar aircrafts, and he never had swirlmarks. He said that swirls have everything to do with the pads, and polishing products being used (and pushing too hard).
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
But hey pmason, you said
When it comes to your paint price shouldn't be a factor.
I've been waiting for 6 months, because I didn't have $250 for a G110, pads, polish, wax, etc, etc.
If I believed that a cheap oribital buffer would give me the same, swirl free results, I'd already have one.
So, tell me again..... Is a Dual Action polisher / buffer the only way to go ? .... even if your poor like me ?
BTW, I'd rather have dull, funky, paint covered with micro scratches > than swirlmarks ! NOTHING looks worse than swirl marks ! Bird $#!+ looks better than swirlmarks !
Anybody ?
Fish
#6
I'm so glad KingRanch posted this.....
Because I had been led to believe, that "oribital" polishers sucked, and were WAY more likely to induce swirl marks.
But recently, I was talking to a buddy who used an orbital buffer in a shop, on customers cars, and also at an airport, on million dollar aircrafts, and he never had swirlmarks. He said that swirls have everything to do with the pads, and polishing products being used (and pushing too hard).
Because I had been led to believe, that "oribital" polishers sucked, and were WAY more likely to induce swirl marks.
But recently, I was talking to a buddy who used an orbital buffer in a shop, on customers cars, and also at an airport, on million dollar aircrafts, and he never had swirlmarks. He said that swirls have everything to do with the pads, and polishing products being used (and pushing too hard).
I also think you are speaking about an orbital polish, which is different then a sander/polisher and a DA polisher. The orbital polish does not have the power or function for paint correction. It's only used to apply LSP (wax/sealants). The DA's are bought in order to correct swirling and slight scratches in paint. They also all but eliminate the possibility of damaging the paint.
I hope I have that correct.
#7
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#8
Polish a few friend's vehicles for $50 each (just a simple correction/polish) and pick up some more pads.
A $30 buffer is just fine to apply polish and wax. As you said, just keep the pads clean and you should not have a problem. The DA's are mainly for the ability to do paint correction. I'm new to this but that is my take.
#9
#10
If you have swirl marks or any type of micromaring, I'd say a DA is the way to go.
#12
Orbitals are not going to damage anything, or even do much, if any, correction - its ROTARIES that you need to be VERY careful with. A sander is a rotary.
Is your old C30 single stage paint, or base/clear? Equipment, products, and techniques differ. What works on single stage could damage clear, and vice versa.
The reason a DA or Flex is recommended so much is it's the best of both worlds. It's essentially an orbital with forced rotation. It has corrective ability with a lot less potential for damage than a straight rotary.
Is your old C30 single stage paint, or base/clear? Equipment, products, and techniques differ. What works on single stage could damage clear, and vice versa.
The reason a DA or Flex is recommended so much is it's the best of both worlds. It's essentially an orbital with forced rotation. It has corrective ability with a lot less potential for damage than a straight rotary.
#13
Orbitals are not going to damage anything, or even do much, if any, correction - its ROTARIES that you need to be VERY careful with. A sander is a rotary.
Is your old C30 single stage paint, or base/clear? Equipment, products, and techniques differ. What works on single stage could damage clear, and vice versa.
The reason a DA or Flex is recommended so much is it's the best of both worlds. It's essentially an orbital with forced rotation. It has corrective ability with a lot less potential for damage than a straight rotary.
Is your old C30 single stage paint, or base/clear? Equipment, products, and techniques differ. What works on single stage could damage clear, and vice versa.
The reason a DA or Flex is recommended so much is it's the best of both worlds. It's essentially an orbital with forced rotation. It has corrective ability with a lot less potential for damage than a straight rotary.
#14
Like someone already said, learn to use the DA and hustle friends and family members to make it pay for itself. Show them the results of your truck to sell them.
The G110 is a great tool for safely correcting paint.
Once you fall down the rabbit hole of serious detailing you will never be the same or look back.
#15
hey guys well i have always done everything by hand and i just wanted something cheap so i can learn and see if i like it. This is what i got from HF
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92623
it was on sale for 34 bucks then i had a 20 percent discount so it came to 30 bucks. Im going out later and will post pics of the truck and if it ever cools down a little bit this evening i will start playing with it. Right now its 107 degrees outside and dont want to start with it being so hot. I will post pics of the truck now and if i start it tonite will post some after pics. Oh by the way what pad do i get for correction doesnt have to be nething special after all im working on a 29 year old truck i dont think i can hurt it nemore
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92623
it was on sale for 34 bucks then i had a 20 percent discount so it came to 30 bucks. Im going out later and will post pics of the truck and if it ever cools down a little bit this evening i will start playing with it. Right now its 107 degrees outside and dont want to start with it being so hot. I will post pics of the truck now and if i start it tonite will post some after pics. Oh by the way what pad do i get for correction doesnt have to be nething special after all im working on a 29 year old truck i dont think i can hurt it nemore
Last edited by KingRanchCoy; 07-10-2009 at 06:06 PM.