That TSB is over 10 years old, and was written before the use of detailing clay became widespread. In my opinion, the proper use of clay is just as effective without having to deal with chemicals.

 

Ford disagrees with you (and so do I). You can buy the required chemicals at your stealership. Page 42 of the 2008 Motorcraft Lubricants and Chemicals catalog lists:

Acid Neutralizer
Features:
• Neutralizes acids which may have been deposited on the paint surface during transportation and storage
• Removes waxes and hard water spots
• Excellent pre-wash for body shop - removes silicones, waxes and other contaminants before sanding
• Saves time when applied to used vehicles - removes oxidation and reduces buff time
Note: This product is the first step in the Ford-recommended neutralizing,
cleaning, three-step process for automotive finishes as specified per TSB
04-9-6. All three products must be used for complete neutralization.

Alkaline Neutralizer
Features:
• Deep cleans painted surfaces to remove alkaline deposits
• Dissolves ferrous metal particles while breaking their bond to the paint so that they safely and easily float away
Note: This product is the second step in the Ford-recommended neutralizing,
cleaning, three-step process for automotive fi nishes as specified per TSB
04-9-6. All three products must be used for complete neutralization.

Remember that 'claying' was developed to remove overspray and has been adopted as a way to fix paint contamination.

 

Is this Beachkid under a new name?

Net is do it your way, we'll do it the right way.

 

No, it's not Beachkid (whoever that is).

Net is "you know more about automotive paint than the manufacturer's (Ford, Mazda, and Volvo)".

Have fun taking the clearcoat off your truck with a claybar for no good reason. After all, it's plenty thick.

 

Why do I hear the Charley Brown voice when I read this?? This sounds way to much like Beechkid maybe we should have the Mods compare IP addresses because its against forum rules to have multiple accounts. There is more than one way to skin a cat and I think Meguiars and the other detailing supply manufacturers would work with the likes of PPG and Azko-Nobel to come up with a product that will work safety on these paint systems.

But this is just my opinion so take it for what it is.

 

Now I get it, you work for ValueGuard. Makes perfect sense now.

 

Are we really having this stupid discussion again?

Clay bar is the answer. It is the easiest answer, and it is the best answer for the finish. Period. Quicker is not always better.

and yes, Apparently I do know more than the manufacturer and the dealer does about the finish on my vehicle. After all .. they are the idiots that try and sell you a "protection package" and then tell you to not wax your vehicle for the next year or two.


Go ahead and do your vehicles your way. It doesn't hurt anyone but you.

What does hurt people is coming on this forum and giving bad advice to them.

 

I have no idea what 'discussion' you're talking about.

No, claybar is YOUR ANSWER. It's not the ANSWER unless you want to remove a layer of your clearcoat for no good reason.

Do you really think you know more than FORD about automotive paint? Based on what? Your chemical engineering degree? LMFAO

FORD did not try to sell you any 'paint package' (except the base and clearcoat). The system I posted is sold by FORD, not by the dealer. It's manufactured by ValuGuard (and no, I do not work for them).

For us 'uninformed laymen', please explain what was claybar originally invented for? Never mind...I give up.

 

Promise?

 

A clay bar will not remove any significant amount of paint or clear-coat. After all, you're using a lubricant to keep it moving smoothly over the paint as the adhesive qualities of the clay "pull" the bits of contamination from the paint. I would be willing to bet that a cleaner-wax product removes more paint in a single application than several clay-bar uses.

Shortgunz: Take some clay to a non-clear-coat finish, and show us the paint-stained clay, and then maybe I'll believe you.


To the OP, take a look at my thread HERE if you want to see some serious rust dust! If it can solve this problem, claybar should take care of yours, as well.

Andy

 

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-clay.html

BS on the pulling the contamination.

HOW DOES DETAILING CLAY WORK?
Detailing clay marketing information often reads something like this: “…clay pulls contamination off of your paint...” This sounds silly when you realize that you must lubricate the surface when you use a car clay bar. How in the world do you pull on something that’s wet and slippery?

This myth was born from a fear of telling people the truth. Clay is an abrasive paint care system. Yet used properly, detailing clay is not abrasive to your car’s paint; it is abrasive to paint contamination.


http://www.fltool.com/CLAYBARS.html

Many claim that clay bars are not abrasive but that is incorrect. They are all abrasive to a degree, some add more abrasives than others and these are usually identified as being “hot” bars. I actually removed the clear from a cars lower panel once using a “hot” bar, so be cautious!

Does the clay bar actually remove contaminates or does it just shave off the top, making the specks flush with the paint? The answer is yes and no. It depends on the contaminate. The clay bar may not totally remove rail dust, but it will shave off the protruding particles. It will, however, easily remove tree sap or paint over spray.

http://www.bugmanweb.com/c6/c6files/clayarticle.pdf

HOW DOES AUTO DETAIL CLAY?
I frequently see detailing clay marketing information that reads something like this: “…clay pulls contamination off of your paint...” This statement sounds pretty ridiculous when you realize that you must lubricate the surface you’re claying. How in the world do you pull on something that’s wet and slippery? This myth was born from a fear of telling people the truth. Clay is an abrasive paint care system. Yet used properly, detailing clay is not abrasive to your car’s paint; it is abrasive to paint contamination. Oh my goodness… did I really say that clay is an abrasive? You bet I did. Read the patents on detailing clay and they describe very clearly that it is a mixture of a clay base (polybutene) and various abrasives. The primary detailing clay patent (U.S. Patent No. 5,727,993) identifies three unique elements (claim 57) used in concert: “A method of polishing a protrusion or stain from a surface comprising; applying a plastic flexible tool to the surface, the plastic flexible tool comprising a plastic flexible material having mixed therewith an abrasive comprising grains from about 3 to 50 m in diameter and; applying a force to the plastic flexible tool such that a polishing force per area is applied by the plastic flexible tool to a protrusion or stain on the surface, and such that the amount of force per area applied to the surface is less than the amount of force per area applied to the protrusion or stain.” Detailing clay is an abrasive system. If not used properly, detailing clay can cause light surface marring. There’s no need to fear if you use proper lubrication.

 

So what does anything you just posted have to do with what is being discussed?

Where have I ever said that clay wasn't abrasive?

Your search and quoting skills are impressive, yet nothing that you linked or posted has anything to do with the actual discussion... which is how to fix the problem.

Clay bar is the best answer for this problem.

How do I know? over thirty years and 10,000 vehicles worth of detailing experience.. that's how I know.

Not from reading it in some service manual. All Ford cares about is keeping your finish looking decent until the warranty runs out. They have zero interest in the long term health of your paint.


And no, my degree isn't Chem E. It is in Nuclear and Mechanical Engineering.. but thanks for asking.

 

The process is suggested is recommend by the manufacturer to remove rail dust.

30 years; 10,000 vehicles...Hmm. That's 300 vehicles per year, almost one per day, for 30 years. You're amazing. When do you find the time to eat, sleep, and work in your nuclear and mechanical engineering job?

By the way, do car detailing seminars meet your state's P.E. continuing education requirements? If so, it must be nice.

 

all talk.. no substance.

and congrats for being able to do simple math, even if your logic is flawed.

Once again .. easy to offer advice with no burden of proof. show us you know what you are talking about.. or are you just another one of these guys that posts advice based on what you have read, with no real world experience to back it up?

it is pretty easy to find examples of my work.

 

Since you seem adamant about making this thread about me (or my lack of experience and not about alternate methods of dealing with an issue)...

Look in the mirror. What advice, other than your 'expert' (someone that knows more and more about less and less) opinion have you offered?

You're an engineer (maybe - no proof was offered). Please explain my faulty logic. Or is this another one of your 'expert' opinions?

I've kept my last two vehicles (Ford trucks) for aproximately 11 and 13 years (180k and 150k miles). In both cases they were sold (privately) over $1500 above KBB - largely due to the quality and appearance of the interior and exterior. Enough proof? Nah, I didn't think so.

Such as?

And again, "For us 'uninformed laymen', please explain what was claybar originally invented for?" And how does the claybar 'pull' the dirt from the paint? Is it magnetic (or just polar opposites)?

Is claybar ALWAYS the correct solution for everything? When is not correct? When YOU think so?

I need to get another P.E. registration in TX - ya'll must be really lax down there.

One more reference for your use (from a forum sponsor):

http://www.detailersdomain.com/valug...stemabkit.aspx

ValuGard Neutralization System (A+B) Kit
Vehicle manufacturer studies have shown that failure to remove environmental contaminants from paint film can cause premature degradation of the paint system. While clay products are useful for overspray, they cannot deep clean the surface and pores of the paint. This can only be accomplished through a thorough chemical cleaning. The ValuGard Neutralization System is the most recognized and approved chemical neutralization system in the industry. In fact, major auto manufactures have issued technical service bulletins/advisories directing their dealers and port operations to use the ValuGard System for required repairs and pre-treatment for acid rain and industrial fallout repairs. Safe for both the user and the environment, the ValuGard Neutralization System is VOC compliant and uses no carcinogenic or toxic components. Economical to use.