Wow shotgunz, you got 1400 over kelly blue book? Talk about showing your ignorance with that quote. I hope you realize tht KBB is just a guide.. There are many factors that come into play with selling a used car.

Then you back that statement up with this gem. "Enough proof? Nah, I didn't think so." How is getting more for your car/truck proof that you are a good detailer or know what you are talking about? So you sold your car to a sucker? Big deal that proves nothing about your ability and to make a statement like that shows more about your character.

Lets see some shots of any car you have worked on...in direct sun light or under a Brinkman light. Better yet, show some before and afters of that same car...not in the shade, not from 200 ft away, not in the dark or in the shade.

You obviously want to earn respect at F150OL, back you game up man.

My money is on Gip. I have seen his work...and you don't know that you are in an argument with one the most premier paint restoration detailer's in the US.

Just floors me that you are trying to go toe to toe with someone who has a pedigree and resume of Gip.

AGain, lets see your work...start a new thread and not hijack this one.

Time to man up or go home.

 

Sold my TRUCKS at $1500 over retail and that makes me dishonest and/or them suckers? Nice leap. My "Nah" statement was meant to preempt your (or Gip's) response, "That doesn't prove anything."

Unfortunately I do not have any pictures of my previous vehicles that meet your stringent requirements. I apologize. I guess I could take some pictures of my 2009 Lariat, but what would that prove?

Gip may do excellent work (at least we now know of two people who think so).

Hijak the thread? You're joking right? READ the ENTIRE THREAD. I merely suggested the MANFACTURER'S recommendation to solve this problem and neither you nor the detailing GOD has been able to tell me why 1) it's wrong or 2) why claybar is better.

Gip is obviously a talented guy - nuclear engineer, mechanical engineer, and detailing GOD. Wonder why someone would give up engineering to become a detailer? Hmmm...

Respect from F150 OL? Not hardly. I couldn't care less if you (or any other members) respect, love, admire, hate, envy, etc. me. Your personal opinion of me means nothing. At the same time, I may 'respect', your opinion on technical issues dealing with our trucks (which is why I joined). My opinion depends on how much BS (read personal opinion with NO FACTS to support it) I think you're spouting. Funny thing is, I will probably not post a negative response to one of your opinions if I disagree with it. I will research the facts (if any) in your response and decide (on my own) if you're FOS. If you are, I'll probably just let it go. If I think the OP is taking a big risk following your advice, I'll PM him and offer FACTS to discount your opinion. Then it's his choice.


Well, this has been really amusing, but I'm reminded of a famous saying (attributed to Mark Twain, but never proven), "Never argue with a fool, onlookers may not be able to tell the difference."

As the younger generation is now fond of saying, "PEACE OUT".

 

That Valuguard A+B kit sounds like a PITA. It's not really feasible for a driveway detailer especially if doing a large vehicle. According to the instructions it says to apply part A to the entire vehicle and lightly agitate for 5-7 minutes (8 for severe conditions) keeping the vehicle wet with the solution and do not allow it to dry. Unless it's a cloudy day or you have a garage, that's going to be tough to accomplish. Then you are supposed to continue on to Part B, spraying it directly on to a mitt at full strength and again lightly agitate for 5-7 minutes without letting it dry. Then there is an optional Part C which sounds like nothing more than other wash soaps on the market. If none of this accomplishes the task at hand, you get to repeat the process. I'm sure with a little practice this method gets to be much less of a PITA and more of a second nature but for my time and money, I prefer to clay. Any amount of clear being removed by clay is so insignificant you would have to clay a vehicle A LOT for it to have an impact.

My take on it. Whatever that's worth.

BTW, just some of Gip's work.
2007 Acura TL
'62 Vette
Escalade But something tells me this one has been pointed out to you before bee...shotgunz.
2007 Chevy Silverado
2006 PT Cruiser

That wasn't all of them but the search function is pretty easy to use.

 

News Flash.... you don't get to PM anyone until you reach 100 posts and based on your history thus far, you are going to have a tough time making to 100 posts.

Leap? A leap is coming here and saying your method is best with no photos to back up your experience yet all the while pumping your chest out.

Back it man...no one here is going to buy what you are selling if you don't back it up. Without proof of your ability you're just a guy behind a keyboard spewing what he has read or heard. For the folks that come to this section looking for real world help and advice, sorry but your posts just don't hold merit. Tired and true proven methods always win...those elders whom post back up their claims and expertise with results. Thus far, you've proven you cannot provide results....when you do that, we'll take you seriously. Up until now you have just run into a few posts and thrown out a few thread grenades. Those grenades are blanks.



Good luck to ya...but you're gonna be called out on every post you throw up until you prove otherwise.

 

Go see if you can find another 15 or 20 detailing sites that you can link to. Most of them have the same paragraph, which is straight from the manufacturer's website.

As I mentioned in the other thread, and I will state again here, I never said this method wouldn't work. What I said was it wasn't the best answer in this instance. Why isn't it the best solution? surely with all of your experience I don't need to tell you that, but I will.

Once again .. it is hitting something with a hammer when a q-tip would work just fine. sure the hammer will fix it.. but why use it if you don't have to, especially with someone that doesn't have a lot of experience.


I never said the product was bad, or that it didn't do what it claimed to do.


And your logic is still flawed, and littered with bad assumptions. I'd think someone capable of getting his PE in multiple states would be able to see that. (might be a bad assumption on my part, but since you have mentioned it so many times, you must have it hanging on your wall, where you can be proud of it.. and rightfully so.)

 

According to Webster's, Shortgunz is abrasive.....

Main Entry: abra·sive
Pronunciation: \ə-ˈbrā-siv, -ziv\
Function: adjective
Date: 1849

1 : tending to abrade
2 : causing irritation <abrasive manners>



Andy

 

Right back at you!

According to Webster's, Andy's post is:

Irrelevant
Adjective
1. Having no bearing on or connection with the subject at issue; "an irrelevant comment"; "irrelevant allegations".

 

Perhaps, but it was funny.

Main Entry: fun·ny
Pronunciation: \ˈfə-nē\
Function: adjective
Inflected Form(s): fun·ni·er; fun·ni·est
Date: 1756

1 a : affording light mirth and laughter : amusing b : seeking or intended to amuse : facetious

 

No disagreement from me.

 

Wow. Simply wow.

The bottom line is this, research your option before you go to through the hassle of trying to discern the opinions that have been spewed within this thread.

There's lots of documentation out there on acid washing as well as on claying. Odds are that you'll achieve the desired level of satisfaction by claying (which is, by the way, the industry standard). Having worked on several white client vehicles in my day, it's pretty easy to for me to note that it's not a temporary fix and that it does work. Further, the film build that the major automotive paint suppliers recommend as OEM is far thicker than one could ever go through by using a clay regime -- even multiple times per year. To think that someone could 'ruin' a clearcoat by using a claybar (albeit, used correctly) is acrimonious.

While I'll always concur that one should utilize the least abrasive methodology to accomplish the task at hand, when used correctly, clay will provide a means to remove bonded contamination from the surface of paint. While it was originally used and designed to be used for paint overspray, the application has grown and has easily become one of the most simple processes as part of proper preparation before polishing and finishing (LSP) for a vehicle.

During my days when I was assisting Meguiar's, I was privy to a lot of research and development with various paint manufacturers - including those that supply OEM coating products to all of the 'Big Three' as well as high end auto manufacturers around the world (Sikkens, 3M, PPG, etc). In nearly all cases, the major paint manufactures will concur that clay is a very viable step to removing the contamination that you've described. While clay may not be the best choice for all instances, it is accepted as an industry standard and is used in nearly every body shop and detail shop from coast to coast.

The paradigm has shifted from 'only acid washing' to 'clay is an option'.

-RP-

 

Wow, after answering the OP very early on, I kind of lost track of this thread. Of course I see that the thread has kind of gone down the toilet too. Maybe new members should lurk for a while (like I did way back when) before taking swipes at respected members of the community - like Gip. When he speaks, those of us that know listen - because there's a ton of experience backing up everything he says.

Finally, thank you RP for bringing some sense to this thread.

 

I was ready to let this thread die (why keep banging your head against the wall).

Because I just joined this particular forum I don't have any experience? How in the heck did you come to that conclusion?

I lived in the upper midwest (lots of snow, ice, salt, acid rain, bugs, etc.) for many years and managed to maintain my vehicles' paint to almost factory quality. One way I did this was using the acid wash. I found it easier and more effective than rubbing compound, polishing compund (remember those days?), or claybar at truly cleaning the paint surface.

I simply made the OP aware of another option that is routinely used by dealers and detailers.

However, it's now clear to me that some members are not really interested in 'other' opinions or options. In fact, if the 'senior/GOD' members disagree with the other opinion or option they will attack the lowly new guy (read low post count).

How about this, "I PROMISE TO NEVER DISAGREE WITH ANY SENIOR MEMBERS EVER AGAIN."



I wonder what happened to the poor smuck that suggested claybar for the first time? Tarred and feathered?

 

I believe you're putting words in his mouth. He never said that. He only suggested that new members, especially those who offer little to no proof of their ability and experience, maybe back off a bit and not go toe to toe with some of the more respected members of the forum. Sort of like a new teacher showing up to a very prestigious school and during his/her first few days this new teacher runs around telling other teachers other ways to do what has worked well for them for a long time and has earned the school it's high honors. This new teacher may have great ideas and suggestions (or maybe horrible or just not-so-right ideas) but needs to earn respect before being taken serious.

By the way, your sarcastic, arrogant, disrespectful attitude isn't needed, nor is it welcomed here. Take it to the general section of the forum if that's how you want to act. The people who actively participate in the care and detailing section of the forum take pride in what they do and their ability to help others out with their issues. Check the attitude at the door.

 

If my posts were percieved as disrespectful, then I apologize.

 

I know it has been a while, but I had a chance to clay last night and got rid of the spots. By the way, I have searched around and cannot remember where I mail ordered Meguiars products from in the past via some information from this site. What do you all recommend? Thanks!