That works, but it can break down the clay. Quick detailer is the best stuff to use. You can also mix up ONR according to the directions on the bottle for clay lube.

 

Ford/GM/Chrysler/MB/Porsche all have service directives that specifically refer to paint correction/contamination procedures and clay bar is not a referred procedure and specifically identified as a method which only removes the surface level paint contaminants and as such, the "root' of the contaminant remains continues to destroy the paint from underneath the surface layer of the paint.

Just remember, Mequire's clay bar is rated at 3500 grit. There much better clay bar products out there rated at much finer grits (such as pro-wax, autobon, etc. which are rated at 5000-6000 grit) so if you are comfortable and believe your paint needs to be wet-sanded, and that is the only and safest way to correct the flaw/issue, then do so but remember, for 90% for all paint contamination issues there are products designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat- which claybar does not correct in any manner shape or form. It is essentially wet sanding the paint, that does initially produce beautifull results but decreases the "paint life" through reducing the thickness of the clear coat, which increases fade, etc. Meg's even recently changed their commerials as a result of numerous "industries' placing direct pressure on their advertised statements that were- let's just say, not telling the whole truth.

These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals (which I have 1990, 1997 and 2004 Ford OEM paint correction docs).

 

First, where are you finding it written that Megs claybar is rated at 3500grit?

Second, if it is, in your opinion, the same as wetsanding why don't I have to remove the wetsanding marks after claying my paint?

Third, isn't this crap getting old. You basically come along about once a month and copy/paste the same BS information. Don't you have anything better to do?

 

I was waiting for him to find this thread and post his crap.

 

took him over two weeks.

There is NOTHING wrong with claying the paint, when done correctly. It is an essential step in obtaining the optimum clarity for your finish.

Anyone that tries to tell you differently is mistaken.

 

x2

Enough is enough... go trolling somewhere else

 

Second verse same as the first. la ti da ti da.

Just clay it.

My clay procedure also dates back to 1990 with hundreds of vehicles clayed and zero negative results. Only stunned owners.

*points to signature*

.

 

I know, but over time the cost of more clay is less than the cost of all that quick detailer or ONR...I do 10-15 cars a summer and it adds up.

 

ONR is dirt cheap when you mix it according to the directions - 2 oz to a gallon of water for clay lube. Considering a gallon of ONR is in the mid 30's, your clay lube winds up costing you 50 cents a GALLON. Compare that to Final Touch at almost 20 bucks a gallon.......

 

Hmmmm, I'm going to look into this. Great tip!

 

How does one tell when your clay bar is done for and time for a new one?

 

If it has been dropped, it is done.

If you can't knead it enough to get it looking new, it is done.

If you have done an extremely dirty vehicle, it is probably done.

If it is breaking down from the lube, and starting to crumble, it is done.



I usually cut new bars in halves or thirds, to make them last longer.

 

got my monday project picked for this week thanks!!thanks for the good tips as well!!

 

I have had alot of luck using it on the g35 but after a few uses it gets worn out, is it almost a 1 time use on the trucks?

 

It all depends just how dirty the truck is. If it's really nasty, you will be lucky to finish it one time, but if it's in good shape you can get 3 uses or so out of it.