Joys of Claybar discovered!!
#16
#17
Ford/GM/Chrysler/MB/Porsche all have service directives that specifically refer to paint correction/contamination procedures and clay bar is not a referred procedure and specifically identified as a method which only removes the surface level paint contaminants and as such, the "root' of the contaminant remains continues to destroy the paint from underneath the surface layer of the paint.
Just remember, Mequire's clay bar is rated at 3500 grit. There much better clay bar products out there rated at much finer grits (such as pro-wax, autobon, etc. which are rated at 5000-6000 grit) so if you are comfortable and believe your paint needs to be wet-sanded, and that is the only and safest way to correct the flaw/issue, then do so but remember, for 90% for all paint contamination issues there are products designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat- which claybar does not correct in any manner shape or form. It is essentially wet sanding the paint, that does initially produce beautifull results but decreases the "paint life" through reducing the thickness of the clear coat, which increases fade, etc. Meg's even recently changed their commerials as a result of numerous "industries' placing direct pressure on their advertised statements that were- let's just say, not telling the whole truth.
These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals (which I have 1990, 1997 and 2004 Ford OEM paint correction docs).
Just remember, Mequire's clay bar is rated at 3500 grit. There much better clay bar products out there rated at much finer grits (such as pro-wax, autobon, etc. which are rated at 5000-6000 grit) so if you are comfortable and believe your paint needs to be wet-sanded, and that is the only and safest way to correct the flaw/issue, then do so but remember, for 90% for all paint contamination issues there are products designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat- which claybar does not correct in any manner shape or form. It is essentially wet sanding the paint, that does initially produce beautifull results but decreases the "paint life" through reducing the thickness of the clear coat, which increases fade, etc. Meg's even recently changed their commerials as a result of numerous "industries' placing direct pressure on their advertised statements that were- let's just say, not telling the whole truth.
These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals (which I have 1990, 1997 and 2004 Ford OEM paint correction docs).
#18
Ford/GM/Chrysler/MB/Porsche all have service directives that specifically refer to paint correction/contamination procedures and clay bar is not a referred procedure and specifically identified as a method which only removes the surface level paint contaminants and as such, the "root' of the contaminant remains continues to destroy the paint from underneath the surface layer of the paint.
Just remember, Mequire's clay bar is rated at 3500 grit. There much better clay bar products out there rated at much finer grits (such as pro-wax, autobon, etc. which are rated at 5000-6000 grit) so if you are comfortable and believe your paint needs to be wet-sanded, and that is the only and safest way to correct the flaw/issue, then do so but remember, for 90% for all paint contamination issues there are products designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat- which claybar does not correct in any manner shape or form. It is essentially wet sanding the paint, that does initially produce beautifull results but decreases the "paint life" through reducing the thickness of the clear coat, which increases fade, etc. Meg's even recently changed their commerials as a result of numerous "industries' placing direct pressure on their advertised statements that were- let's just say, not telling the whole truth.
These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals (which I have 1990, 1997 and 2004 Ford OEM paint correction docs).
Just remember, Mequire's clay bar is rated at 3500 grit. There much better clay bar products out there rated at much finer grits (such as pro-wax, autobon, etc. which are rated at 5000-6000 grit) so if you are comfortable and believe your paint needs to be wet-sanded, and that is the only and safest way to correct the flaw/issue, then do so but remember, for 90% for all paint contamination issues there are products designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat- which claybar does not correct in any manner shape or form. It is essentially wet sanding the paint, that does initially produce beautifull results but decreases the "paint life" through reducing the thickness of the clear coat, which increases fade, etc. Meg's even recently changed their commerials as a result of numerous "industries' placing direct pressure on their advertised statements that were- let's just say, not telling the whole truth.
These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals (which I have 1990, 1997 and 2004 Ford OEM paint correction docs).
Second, if it is, in your opinion, the same as wetsanding why don't I have to remove the wetsanding marks after claying my paint?
Third, isn't this crap getting old. You basically come along about once a month and copy/paste the same BS information. Don't you have anything better to do?
#20
#22
#23
I know, but over time the cost of more clay is less than the cost of all that quick detailer or ONR...I do 10-15 cars a summer and it adds up.
#24
#27
If it has been dropped, it is done.
If you can't knead it enough to get it looking new, it is done.
If you have done an extremely dirty vehicle, it is probably done.
If it is breaking down from the lube, and starting to crumble, it is done.
I usually cut new bars in halves or thirds, to make them last longer.
#30