Weird redish spots
#1
#2
#3
Ford/GM/Chrysler/MB/Porsche all have service directives that specifically refer to paint correction/contamination procedures and clay bar is not a referred procedure and specifically identified as a method which only removes the surface level paint contaminants and as such, the "root' of the contaminant remains continues to destroy the paint from underneath the surface layer of the paint.
90% for all paint contamination issues there are products available at automotive paint suppliers, designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat
These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals of which I have copies.
90% for all paint contamination issues there are products available at automotive paint suppliers, designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat
These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals of which I have copies.
#4
you have serious issues, beechnut
OP - just ignore this guy .. he is very good at copying and pasting 15 year old statements, but has no practical experience and just posts here to get a rise out of people. He doesn't know what he is posting about in this case.
Try claying the area, and see if it addresses your issue.
OP - just ignore this guy .. he is very good at copying and pasting 15 year old statements, but has no practical experience and just posts here to get a rise out of people. He doesn't know what he is posting about in this case.
Try claying the area, and see if it addresses your issue.
#5
Found some answers today...going to clay it off with some Meg's QD and Clay bar. I think after everything I have read I should be OK.
Oh ya BTW, I contacted the Dealers Body shop and they said it is "Ferrolous Metals" or something like that and they suggested doing what
I am doing on Monday........
Oh ya BTW, I contacted the Dealers Body shop and they said it is "Ferrolous Metals" or something like that and they suggested doing what
I am doing on Monday........
Last edited by BlkButy; 05-01-2010 at 11:52 PM.
#7
OK so after 3 hours the results are in - ALL redish spots are gone. Man that was not an easy task but sure looks ALOT better. That's the best $15.00 I have ever spent on the truck. I do have the drivers door left to do but want to show my neighbor the difference from how it was (roughness) versus the SMOOTHNESS afterwards. I used the Meg's package and I got it from Wal-Mart. It's unbelieveable of how the look and feel is afterwards.
Trending Topics
#10
#11
#12
For price, ease of use and durability I like Megs NXT 2.0. Then a week or two later I would use a carnuba of some sort as a topper but NXT is a fine stand alone wax.
There are Synthetic, carnuba waxes like #26 but I have very little experience with those product and white paint.
Mostly it depends on how much work and effort you want to put in.
#13
For a wax that you can buy anywhere, Megs NXT 2.0 is as good as any on a white truck. Put it on VERY thin and rub it in, let it dry, then wipe off with a good microfiber towel. I apply it to the whole truck, then go back and remove it in the same panel order. This is generally good enough for the "casual" detailer, it won't do any paint correction to speak of but it will look decent and it will bead water.
#15