Black Paint

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Old 02-05-2000, 06:38 AM
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Question Black Paint

A shop in the neighborhood offers "Paint Glazing" for $200.00 as a way to minimize scratches and swirls in black paint. Also I always hand wash my truck. Should I spend the money? Any other ideas?
 
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Old 02-05-2000, 08:04 AM
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I also have the black paint..and *I* would not spend the money. I use the meguiar's Deep crystal system polish followed by their DCS wax..and the truck looks great! I hand wash my truck also.

Black will certainly show everything...but when it is clean...it is the best color, IMHO, on a truck.

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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, Pendaliner bedliner, K&N air filter, rubberized undercoating, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II, 5W-30 Mobil 1, engine build 10/4/99

 
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Old 02-05-2000, 08:45 AM
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I'm with Dustoff, black paint is the best and the worst. I pre rinse, then hand wash with a mild sudsy car wash and a real sheepskin mit (not the cheap synthetic kind). Dry with only 100% cotton "made in America" towels. This is about the best way to keep the visible scratches to a minimum.

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2000 XLT Black Sport, Flareside, 2WD, Ext. Cab, 5.4L Auto. Other factory options: 3.55 LS, Class III tow, 6-way Captains chairs w/CD changer, Remote entry , and Slider window.
Mods: Undercoat, window tint, headlight & tail light covers, removed "Sport" decals, upgraded Triton tailgate emblem, Linex spray-in bedliner, and an ARE LSII lid.
Wish list: Flowmaster duals, K&N FIPK or Velocity Tube, and a Belltech 3/4 drop.
Check it out at: http://home.columbus.rr.com/selva1/f150.html
 
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Old 02-05-2000, 08:50 AM
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Like Dustoff says, if you use special products, use them often and take great care when you wash it, you probably don't need the professionally applied sealers. But if you don't - don't have the time or if you live in a cold climate or an apartment, or you just don't want the extra work, then the glazing you're talking about is probably a good idea.

If you do nothing, the black clearcoat will soon look like (you know what).

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Black 2000 SC XLT short-box. 4.2 V-6, 5-speed, 3.55 Limited Slip. Side steps, CD, remote entry, FORD box liner. Add-ons: Older Windstar driver's side wiper blade (with the air scoop, because I don't slow down when it rains), back-up beeper, "f150online.com" sticker and snazzy Tweetie Bird floor mats.

My third F-series: '73 F-100, '98 F-150 and '00 F-150. Great trucks!


 
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Old 02-05-2000, 08:53 AM
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Big Mel. Just noticed this is your first post. Welcome to F150online. Best Board on the Net!

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Black 2000 SC XLT short-box. 4.2 V-6, 5-speed, 3.55 Limited Slip. Side steps, CD, remote entry, FORD box liner. Add-ons: Older Windstar driver's side wiper blade (with the air scoop, because I don't slow down when it rains), back-up beeper, "f150online.com" sticker and snazzy Tweetie Bird floor mats.

My third F-series: '73 F-100, '98 F-150 and '00 F-150. Great trucks!


 
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Old 02-05-2000, 11:55 PM
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Most scratches happen during the drying process to eliminate this completely see my post on "Save lots of time wash jobs"
I also prerinse my truck and then use a good car wash soap and use a section of "polishing cloth" and with light pressure wash the truck. Be sure to constantly rinse clean the cloth and try to use clean cool soapy water at all times, If you happen to drop the cloth or when it gets dirty throw it away and get a new one. Remember one spec of sand can destroy a paint job if it's on a wash mit cloth or towell. I learned this method after destroying and replacing chrome on my harley, now I very seldom have swirls or scratches even on my black truck---------------
2000 F-150, XLT, SC, 5.4, 4X4, 355 LS, ORP, Black/Silver, class III, single CD, sliding glass, med. gray, keyless, elect. shift, engine date 8-18-99, '93 Harley Fatboy Black & tons of chrome

[This message has been edited by Bubbadewsky (edited 02-06-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Bubbadewsky (edited 02-06-2000).]
 
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Old 02-06-2000, 01:22 PM
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Yep, I know what you are goin through. I had swirls really bad too, but I used the 3M Scratch and Swirl Remover and then used the 3M wax and my Black truck has never looked better. I also learned to use a new technique of waxing, no more of that circular motion, cause that's what causes swirls in the first place. I now use the side to side method, works great. Take it from me, I know what I'm sayin, I usally spend 6 hours on Friday gettin it ready for the weekend. Good luck to ya.

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Patrick aka Mudder Arlington Texas (D/FW), member of the "North Texas Chapter" Stone Cold edition F150 ®, Black 98 Styleside S/C F150 4x4 0RP 5.4 3.55ls, Ramsey Pro 8000 hidden winch, Grizzly roll bar, Superwhite Bulbs, 2 Baja lights, 8 165 watt KC Daylighters, 4 chrome, 4 black (I come alive at night), Manik grille guard, Westin step bars, Rhino Taillight guards (thanks Pony), Magnum bug shield, Sonic aluminum treadplate 36" tool box, Flowmaster 40 series dual exhaust, K/N air filter, 265/75/16 BFG AT/S, American Racing Baja wheels, Cobra CB radio with 3' whip antenna, Escort Laser/Radar detector, Nokia cell phone, a Mobil Speed Pass on the back window, a F150 Online sticker, and a Stone Cold sticker on the front windshield, and yes, I also have been infected with the infamous door crack. More to come for the Daylighting machine: shocks, Airaid, and a lift when it's all paid for. If you would like to see pics, email me at mudder46@hotmail.com or see pics at me and pony's website www.angelfire.com/ok3/ponysix8 , and to hear the Flowmaster exhaust http://www.angelfire.com/ok3/ponysix8/images/T005.wav
Mr.Daylighter "Go ahead, flash your brights at me, see what happens"
Also the Moderator of the Ford Trucks vs. GM trucks forum over on fordvschevy.com so check it out.



[This message has been edited by mudder (edited 02-06-2000).]
 
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Old 02-06-2000, 02:02 PM
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Side to side...I will have to try that! Even though I am extremely careful..anything that will help is worth a try!!

Thanks mudder! By the way...how is the 'power bill' on your F-150??!!???!!??

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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, Pendaliner bedliner, K&N air filter, rubberized undercoating, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II, 5W-30 Mobil 1, engine build 10/4/99

 
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Old 02-06-2000, 05:52 PM
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Well Dustoff, so far it's ok. Only been caught once for impersonating a runway You know, I didn't know the 747's were that big up close.
 
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Old 02-06-2000, 07:18 PM
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That's a good one mudder!!!!!



------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, Pendaliner bedliner, K&N air filter, rubberized undercoating, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II, 5W-30 Mobil 1, engine build 10/4/99

 
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Old 02-06-2000, 07:20 PM
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I don't know where I read this, but on horizontal surfaces, like the hood, you're supposed to do a front to back waxing/buffing motion. On the sides, you do an up and down motion. Something about the angles involved when you're looking at the vehicle.
 
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Old 02-06-2000, 07:29 PM
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Dennis is right.
That tip is from the Zaino web site. "Front to back" on horizontal surfaces, and "up and down" on vertical surfaces maximizes the light reflectivity off of the paint. The better the reflectivity, the better the shine.
 
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Old 02-08-2000, 10:43 PM
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Sounds like all you guys do your waxing by hand. I also have a black truck but use a buffer to do all the waxing. I got the top of the line Sears 11" one and it works great. I use 1 terry cloth bonnet to apply the wax, and usually 3-4 to remove it and then a lambs wool bonnet for the final shine - I could never get such good results by hand plus its quite a time saver. Takes about 30 minutes or less to apply the wax (Meguires btw). I let it dry for a few hours and then take it off and polish which takes about 1 hour. The buffer's pattern is such that it doesn't just spin in a circle so there's no swirls. Afterwards the black paint is like a mirror!
 
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Old 02-09-2000, 09:04 AM
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Ive always used the round motion and can attest that it does cause more swirl marks. Starting using side to side and you can barely notice any. Hoping to get a power buffer for my Birthday this year.

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The Truck: 1997 Black F-150 Flareside. Regular Cab ORP and Towing Package
The Mods: K&N Filter, Eurolid Hard Tonneau, Profile Windstream Side Deflectors and Ford Bug Deflector.
The Site:
Triton's 4.6 Liter Web Page
www.mindspring.com/~acbradley/index.html



[This message has been edited by Triton46 (edited 02-09-2000).]
 
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Old 02-09-2000, 04:58 PM
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so eventhough the paint is new with a new clearcoat finish, you still need to use a wax? A little confused, thought by using a wax on a new paint job would strip the clearcoat thus having to make sure you waxed the truck all the time. Help!
 


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