I missunderstood the statement that I was replying to.

I have been using an absorber (I know, I know) because of this thread I bought some new towels (thanks to those involved), but my last wash I thoroughly washed my absorber and rinsed each panel then dried and I have not found a mar yet in my recently buffed and polished black paint. I think that if you have OCD and pay close attention to detail then most products will be fine to use. Yes the microfiber towels are easier to use, but technique is the most important thing to pay attention to.

I am interested in that blower attachment, The blower has served me and my motorcycle well for years, maybe its time to try it on the truck.

 

Precisely what you said. The absorber does well if you have an attention to detail.

But according to Dr. Gipraw:

 

Any update?

 

^ Whoa that thing looks pretty cool. I'll keep this idea on the side lines.

 

Good tip. I used The Absorber tonight which is like a chamois/Shamwow towel. I usually like using that, even though it leaves some water behind usually there are no streaks.

I will be finding this Waffle Weave at AZ later this week.

 

Just in case no one mentioned it, the single best tool in drying a car is water. Take the nozzle off so you just have water coming right out of the hose, set the water on low to medium and let it sheet over your truck. The sheeting of the water, with a decent wax job, will dry about 90% of the car for you without you even touching it. Then follow up with a nice waffle weave towel and you're done. Couple it with a leaf blower and a simple microfiber is all that is needed to finish the job.

Give it a try this weekend and let us know how it goes. There used to be a super long thread at Autopia in their hall of fame section on this, but since the new ownership I don't get over there often. Actually, I don't even think there is a hall of fame forum anymore...shame what they did to that site.

 

The Water Sheeting method is talked about here some and other places as part of the standard process in the proper way to wash and dry a car. Unfortunately, this method only works on a properly prepared surface...This will provide very little help when starting a detail to correct the paint or just prep it for new wax. AFTER the paint has been properly prepared this is indeed a best practices step.

Good post to bring up.

 

I would not agree with this. I've used the water sheeting method on vehicles with old wax and even used it on vehicles that I've stripped the wax (both before any detail work) and it works just the same. In fact, it works better as the water pools together much easier and does not bead into little droplets. It certainly does not work any better after correction has been done.

 

So you are agreeing with me...since you have prepared the surface prior it works.

Say you take a car/truck that hasn't been touched in a year, still think it works? Nope. Your drying towel will stick and drag on the surface. The water will be hard to absorb due to the condition of surface until you remove embedded contaminates.

I see a lot of cars/trucks....the cars I have touched in the past 6-8 months this method works, cars that I haven't touched prior, this method is a waste of time until I properly prep the surface. Then GOING FORWARD for the next few months (pending on which LSP i use) up to 8 or so months this method can still work.

For my personal trucks, this method works great but I keep my paint in pristine condition. I use the WSM as one indicator for when it is time to do more work on the surface.

 

The part that I think works regardless is the sheeting of the water. It works in that the water pools together and gravity makes it run off the vehicle. This will work on a newly waxed vehicle but works even better if the surface has not been prepared.

Personally, I use the sheeting water process as there is no reason not to, follow up with an electric leaf blower and then blot with some QT and a waffle weave or good MF towel. If I'm going to do a full detail I skip the WW/MF as I'm not worried about a little water on the vehicle.

 

Hey its ok to disagree. At least you know the process and that matters.

 

Yeah, sorry for the delay.

I rigged this nozzle up with my old Toro leaf blower by removing the stock Toro nozzle and "adapting" the new nozzle with the Toro nozzle piece for the leaf bag attachment (never used the leaf bag attachment, so no big deal. The Toro power head blower output (electric) is oval-shaped, so I just shoved the round flex hose from the Air Wand attachment into the oval adaptor from the leaf bagger, wrapped some duct tape around it, and DONE! There was a shoulder strap included with the nozzle, so I just drilled a couple holes in the power head handle. So if I need the std blower nozzle, I just detach the Air Wand nozzle/flex hose/adaptor and GO!

Seems to work damn well...better than a reg leaf blower anyhow. You can buy the whole system from Air Wand for $99, bucks, but I mad mine for less then $20.

Jim