newbie, Help please

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Old 09-05-2010, 10:13 PM
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newbie, Help please

so I went through all the pages and was looking for a good way to shine up my 2000 F150. Would like to know a good process. I know you guys will say get a DA but I can't spend that kind of money. the Process I have been using is Wash, clay bar, polish, wax. but im not happy with the results. I think I might need to do paint correction but I just think I need a good process. Im willing to spend hours on it. Any help boys
 
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:12 PM
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There is no replacement for a good buff job.BUT-- If you are inexpereinced with a buffer you can do a lot of damage. Start out with a wool pad on the buffer set to about1400 RPM with a mid grade compound. Not "Parko 711" or anything that comes in a can that you have to put on with a stick or a paint brush. I prefer 3M's Perfectit#3 step 1.I think it's called "extra cut".Purple bottle with a white cap. Then go back over it with Perfectit#3 machine glaze on a fine grade black foam pad at about 1000 RPM. Stay away from the edges of any panels cuz if you get near them, you will go through the paint. Then finish off with a good hand glaze like Wizard's Shine master by hand. A little compound goes a long way. less is better. mask off any thing textured(door handles,cowl vent panel) cuz you won't get it off. And stay away from the edges or any body lines with the buffer! It happens quick! I've got 18 years in as a body man and i burned an edge on Friday!Good luck. EDIT-OH YEAH- DO NOT DO THIS OUT IN THE SUN!!! Wash everything as soon as you are done. Don't let any compound dry in the jambs. It's tough to get off in a few days. Finish off with a good quality wax after you've washed it.
 

Last edited by stewy 39; 09-05-2010 at 11:40 PM.
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Old 09-06-2010, 03:02 AM
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Have you read the detailing sticky?

To do it by hand, you need some kind of cleaner or compound designed for hand use in between the clay and polish. Meguiars Ultimate Compound is excellent for this, but may not be needed - a good cleaner such as Deep Crystal step 1 or ColorX may be strong enough.

Using a rotary with a wool pad and compound should only be left to pros - and even then, it's seldom necessary. If anything, use a DA with foam pads and something a LOT milder than an "extra cut" compound. If it needs anything harsher than M105, the paint is shot.
 



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