What are the pros and cons of the small home orbital polishers out on the market now? Worth the money? Do they save time? Can you ruin a paint job with them? Those of you that have tried them give us some info!!! Thanks...Michael

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Michael

 

Ok, orbital buffers/polishers are way faster than hand waxing. It is near impossible to ruin paint unless you use course material on your pads. Now, high-speed buffers are for the trained detailer. Even though they range in RPM levels, you can burn your paint with even the slowest high-speed buffer. Orbitals are for the average do-it-yourselfer. I use one everytime I wax my truck. Once every 3 waxes, I use a foam applicator pad to heat up the paint slightly and get the water spots out. (I have worked in a couple detail shops.) I have done this on all of my vehicles, and never had a problem. I use Eagle 1 liquid polish, and cleaner wax. If you start to notice small specs of metal(rust) or sap-looking spots on your paint, go to the auto store and buy detailer's clay. Follow the directions carefully, and your paint will be near perfect again. (Note: You must always wax/polish after claying paint.) Never use dishsoap on your vehicle. You wouldn't use car soap on your dishes would you? Try it. Your truck will thank you.

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2000 Ford F-150 Extended Cab Flare Side 4x4 Lariat
5.4L;auto;3.55LS;Black/Silver;Off-Road;remote keyless entry;floor shift 4wd;Class III

Installed accessories so far:
Lund X-Terminator bug shield; Vent Shade Vent Visors; GTS headlight blackouts; Westin Black nerf bars; Pendaliner bedliner
Pending
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Wish list:
Roll bar; Lots of lights; Flowmaster 40 or 50 Series single to dual exhaust; Aluminum dash kit; White gauges; Optima red top battery; Hidden winch; Custom backup lights; Kenwood TV/CD/AM/FM/DVD system; Viper alarm w/ remote start; Rancho RS9000s; PIAA front air dam; Super charger; Lightning emblems (after super charger); Custom tonneu cover to fit around roll bar; Custom backup lights; A 18' - 25' boat to tag along behind



Please visit My Web Site (Just Updated)
or e-mail me lariat4wd@yahoo.com

[This message has been edited by lariat4wd (edited 11-17-2000).]

 

BlueOvalBolt....I've only had my 2001 Screw for two weeks and it will always be parked under a portico, so I'm fortunte to have little direct UV light or tree sap most of the time. Are you recommending this stripping process for a new vehicle such as mine? Or is this done somewhere down the road at a later date?...Thanks...Michael

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Michael

 

IMO, yes. When vehicles are shipped, they usually spend at least some time on a train. Rail dust is a pesky and dangerous enemy and when the rocket scientist detailer prepared your truck for delivery at the dealership, he for sure didn't take the time to strip it and wax it. This is not to mention the time it sat at the factory waiting shipment or time on the dealers lot getting acid rain baked in. He either caused more damage or, in the best case scenerio, just sealed these contaminants on the vehicle with wax.

I think you would be very surprised at the amount of contaminants that accumulate on your vehicle even though you park under cover. It may look clean as can be but if you would take a piece of something like saran wrap or other very thin plastic and *lightly* go over your finish you will feel many bumps. These bumps are contaminants. Use the clay bar on the same area and repeat with the plastic under your finger and you will not beleive it.

The object is not to repeatedly seal these contaminants to the finish by putting coat after coat of wax on. I strip my vehicles once a year and start from the most absolute virgin surface possible and they are garaged year round. The object is to polish the clear coat as smooth as possible so light does not refract off of irregular surfaces. Scratches and contaminants will cause unwanted refraction.

Hope this helps.

[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 11-17-2000).]

[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 11-17-2000).]

 

Are you guys talking about orbital or random orbit buffers?

 

Dennis, I'm looking for help on any type of electrical buffer to use at home, and problems with them folks have experienced. I would guess that the random obital would cause the least finish problems for someone that might be heavy handed. have some ideas???..Michael

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Michael

 

Just a reminder DO NOT USE A HEAVY ADDRASIVE PRODUCT, I did to clean up a spot were I had some small scratch like I do on my show car 73 Mustang conv. and I eat right through the paint in about a minute or so. When I took it to the body shop my buddy ther told me that ford does not apply a thick clear coat like is on the mustang. Take it from me and my costly mistake be very carful when buffing with rubbing compond!!

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97 f150 ext cab 4x4 4.6L Mods (True duals, mud flaps, ventshade, hood gaurd, more to come!)

 

Dennis - I have been referring to random orbital buffers, not the high speed variety that look like a grinder that they would use in a body shop. Those should be left to the professionals as you can easily burn the finish. Just look for "Random Orbital" on the box label.

INAHURY is right, watch out for abrasive compounds and only use products recommended for clear coat finishes for late model vehicles. If your vehicle does not have clear coat applied, it is even more important to use care in choosing which compound to use. My philosophy on working on defects in the finish is to start with the most mild abrasive and work your way up to more aggressive abrasives until the results you are looking for are acheived.

 

BlueOvalBolt,

I have had an orbital for a while but found it difficult to use around mouldings, mirrors, badges, and such. How do you keep from getting wax , etc. on the plastics and rubbers? Do you mask them off or do those areas by hand. I can probably guess but just want to be sure I'm not missing something.

 

Have any of you been to www.meguiars.com or www.zaniobros.com ? Both sights have great info reguarding do's and dont's of paint maintance.

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2000 XLT Bright red, Flareside,extended cab,sport,5.4,bedrug,Extang tonneau.

 

I was very wary of using an orbital buffer for years due to misinformation. It wasn't until I blew out my elbow from hand waxing to the extreme that forced me to further investigate buffers.

Now I'm a converted believer and always recommend to people who ask that a buffer is the only way to go. They are easy to use, save time, apply products much more evenly than by hand, and will save on the amount of product you will use.

There are many good random orbital buffers out there. I use Craftsman buffers, 9". The 6 or 7" are too small for big jobs and I found the 12" are just too bulky. When choosing a buffer, be sure it has a "locked on" feature. This will allow you to relax more while you are buffing. They will range in cost from about $50 - $70 (for a 9") depending on where you buy one.

For best results, find foam applicator bonnets to apply the product and terry cloth bonnets to remove the product. When buying terry cloth bonnets, try to find ones with the thickest nap possible. Sears has a good terry bonnet but there are others out there.

For a complete job, first strip your vehicle by washing it with Dawn dishwashing soap (Do not use Dawn on a regular basis, to be used only when starting from scratch). Then use a clay bar with the appropiate lubricant to strip those nasty airborne contaminants, tree sap, etc. that affix themselves to the finish. Then start appling the product of choice. Because you save time with the buffer, you will have time to use more than just a wax. You may want to start with a surface prep, then use a polish, then a glaze, and then seal it up with a good carnuba wax. The multi-step process will give you a result you won't have believed possible.

After you are done, you may want to get a diaper or wool bonnet for that final buff.

Sorry for the long post but once I get started on this subject I can stop evangelizing. Good luck.

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'99 L, JL Stage II Ram Air, Bassani cat-pipes, Borla cat-back, R9 Superchip, Cal-Tracs, Chassis Tech 2" drop shackles, Water Wetter

'93 Cobra, 1 5/8" FMS shorty headers, 2 1/2" Mac cat-pipes, Borla cat-back, 4" ram air, 3.55 gears, March pulleys, strut tower brace, Kenne Bell flip chip, Crane Hi-6 ignition, Crane coil, Global West Trac-Link, Hurst chrome shifter, Canton oil pan, BFG g-force kd tires




[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 11-17-2000).]

 

XceLenT Driver

I mask when I know I'm going to do several coats after a full striping. I use blue painters tape so there is no adhesive residue. Even with it masked though you will still need to do some hand work to get into the corners. When you don't mask, you just have to be extra careful. If you get wax on the black plastic, use isopropyl alcohol (sp?) to remove it.

Nitro94
Yes, I have been to both and you are right they offer some great advice. I used to only use the Mequiars system of cleaners, polishes, glazes, and waxes but found that Zaino is also an excellent product as well. I use Zaino on the Cobra and Mequiars on the L and find them to be very comparable in quality of shine and use of use.

 

is a 1/2 hp orbital good enough? i saw one at pep boys for 49 bucks.

 

It should be plenty IMO for routine maintenance.