I am relatively new to the site and detailing. Earlier this summer when my truck was new I applied 2 coats of RejeX paint sealant. I would like to apply something again before it becomes to cold, but I know have some fine spider-web like scratches on my dark blue paint. If I polish again won't that remove the RejeX? I have some Griots as well as some PoorBoys paint sealant but thought maybe I could get away with one step. As always thanks to everyone for their input, it really helps a rookie like myself.

 

Yes when you polish you will remove any wax or sealants. You should remove them prior to polishing anyway with claybar or a 50/50 isopropyl alcohol (90%)/water mix or your polishing efforts will be diminished.

Before you polish you need to examine why (wash/wax techniques and accessories like wash mitt, towels and anything else that touches your paint) you have spider web scratches in your dark blue paint. Did you induce them or were they already there? You will continually have problems if you don't figure out why and endlessly be polishing defects you induce.

You can do a fair job of covering paint defects but cover will only last as long as what you covered them with. The best method is to get a good defect free paint surface and keep it that way.
Good luck.

 

Thanks Old Dogg. I am sure I introduced them, I have a bucket with a grit guard but am probably using it improperly. Would Megs #105 be an overkill for removing the spider-webbing or would something a bit less aggressive be more in line? I do have some Griots Machine Polish 3 I could use too.

 

You might want to purchase megs 205 http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/m20512.html .
Always start with the least aggressive product first and then move on to more aggressive only if it is necessary.

 

I use mainly the griots produts and have great results with them. Just remember if the sealer says it will last 1 year you might get 5-6 months out of it.

 

Ok here comes another rookie question; sealant then wax or vice versa? I also use Griots because it is available locally and was told I can mix machine polish 3 in the their wax to help work the finish.

 

Before you go too far try and figure out what you are doing exactly to cause the marring and correct your technique. Otherwise you will just be correcting over and over.
It would be best to see the patient first before a diagnosis. When you think of removing defects remember it's pad and product combos not just products. Try to get some direct sun or strong light close up photos of the defects. The strong light points will highlight surface defects and marring. Sounds like you have "swirls" (spider-webbing) but it's hard to say without seeing.

Personally I seal the paint, then wax. Some like to seal after waxing. Either way be careful of what products you use because some sealants have minor abrasives which do some minor correction and will remove wax and some waxes also have abrasives and solvents which will remove sealants.

 

I would recommend applying the sealant so that it can bond to the paint. You then place the wax on top of sealant. Let the sealant cure for 24 hours before applying wax on top.

Yes, I'm betting (can't know without seeing) that M101 would probably be over kill. Also, M101 can be a pain to work with and if you can avoid it, I would. Ultimate Compound is available locally and just about as aggressive as M101. I'd recommend trying Scratch X 2.0 as it's less aggressive.

I do like the results of sealant and then a good caranuba over the top on darker colored vehicles. Good protection and a nice deep shine.

 

If it is swirls, you can try SwirlX. Also I have found Colorx to be a great all-in one that lasts when topped off with a pure synthetic like NXT 2.0.

Ultimate Compound can correct pretty major defects, so it might not be your first go to.

These are all Meguiar's products that can be found in many locations.

Always do a test spot!

Post some pics and the pro's here can provide some educated advice.

 

If you don't mind adding another bottle to the shelf you can always go with a polish with sealant already in it. I've used Tropi-care for years (not tropi-care any more) and it is fairly durable. Poorboys has one as well...I think it's called PwS.

 

I know this post is couple weeks old but..

No need for wax if your using a good sealant. It won't hurt but any looks or affects you have gained from using the sealant will change when you top it with the wax.

If your looking for maximum protection for winter months I would opt for two thin coats of a good quality sealant and call it good.

Pertaining to your spider webs also known as swirls. Here is a few words of wisdom that have helped me... " ALWAYS USE THE LEAST AGGRESSIVE PRODUCT TO GET THE JOB DONE."

As was mentioned already, find yourself some SwirlX which is Meguiar's least aggressive consumer line product and try that first. Not sure as you didn't mention how large of a working area we are talking about, but keep you working area small (1' x 1') if working by hand. If using a DA polisher you could increase that to (2' x 2'). You might have to do several applications to determine if it is going to do the job or not before going to a more aggressive polishing compound.

If that works.. great, otherwise you might step up to Ultimate Compound. The nice thing about Meguiar's products is they are readily available at your local Wal-Mart or O'Reilly Auto.

 

I think this statement might be misleading. While I can't speak for all sealants, generally applying it twice is not going to create "two thin coats". Applying it twice will make sure that spots are not missed but using the same sealant twice won't layer one coat on top of another.

Again, I can't speak for all sealants but I think it's probably true of them all.

 

double post.

 

Sorry for the confusion. The reason for two coats is to insure even coverage as you stated. Most sealants do best if they're applied whisper thin. The other part of the equation is that a curing time of 8-12 hours between coats is generally recommended.

For the record, I have recently started using Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant. So far it has really impressed me. About the slickest sealant I've used and probably the easiest to use as well. Almost gives the look of a Carnauba, which other sealants I've used don't. The jury is still out on durability, but knowing that it has polycharger added leads me to believe that it will last quite long as well.

 

The brains over at Meguiarsonline recommend 2 thin coats of NXT 2.0 to ensure even coverage but say it's no need to wait between the 1st and 2nd application. For what it cost NXT 2.0 is easy to apply, goes a long way and has very good durability. It always makes my black look deep.

Many claim the look is not as good as carnuba wax but I usually wait 2 weeks and top it anyway for a nice pop with hard and soft DODO Juice Carnuba in the warmer monts and Optimum Spray Car Wax in the winter months. I use Flitz Speed Wax now and then which also has very good durability.

I have tried plenty of products over the years and as the saying goes, "Find something you like and use it often."