Care of black paint - revisted
#16
Turtle Wax.
They make a black polish that is the best thing since sliced bread for black paint.
It hides swirl marks great and "fills in" all the "white" scratches. It also doesn't leave white residue all over the place. First time I used it, it actually "dyed" all the black rubber trim back to super black. Made the car look brand new. I have used it on two other black cars at my house one with clear coat and one without. I will definately use it on my new truck as well.
I don't believe those super expensive products work any better for the price.
Remember, the clear coat is actually paint without pigment. It is also thinner than a piece of paper. After a few "tough" years, you may not even have a clear coat left in some areas.
I also use Turtle Wax Emerald series spray-on after most washings to keep up the super shine.
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2001 F150 SC SPORT 4X4 FLARESIDE
* Black
* 4.6
* awesome factory 10 spoke 17" wheels
* "MAN"ual shift 4x4
* 3.55 Limited slip
* Captains chairs W/console
* Factory tube steps
* Slider
They make a black polish that is the best thing since sliced bread for black paint.
It hides swirl marks great and "fills in" all the "white" scratches. It also doesn't leave white residue all over the place. First time I used it, it actually "dyed" all the black rubber trim back to super black. Made the car look brand new. I have used it on two other black cars at my house one with clear coat and one without. I will definately use it on my new truck as well.
I don't believe those super expensive products work any better for the price.
Remember, the clear coat is actually paint without pigment. It is also thinner than a piece of paper. After a few "tough" years, you may not even have a clear coat left in some areas.
I also use Turtle Wax Emerald series spray-on after most washings to keep up the super shine.
------------------
2001 F150 SC SPORT 4X4 FLARESIDE
* Black
* 4.6
* awesome factory 10 spoke 17" wheels
* "MAN"ual shift 4x4
* 3.55 Limited slip
* Captains chairs W/console
* Factory tube steps
* Slider
#17
Hey man, I know what you mean black is hard to keep clean and scratch free... but I use a wax called, crap what is it called again... it is that german wax that is about 14 dollars a bottle at Walmart. The name starts with a Z... help me out here...
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99' Ford F150 XL Sport
(Black) V-6 3.55 manual
Mods:
Airaid, Bosch +4 Plat.
Dynomax Ultraflow SI/DO
Color Keyed Carpet
AVS Headlight covers
AVS Bugdeflector II
Lund Wiper Cowl
Lund Tinted Glass
Lund Soft Bed Cover
V-tech Taillight covers
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99' Ford F150 XL Sport
(Black) V-6 3.55 manual
Mods:
Airaid, Bosch +4 Plat.
Dynomax Ultraflow SI/DO
Color Keyed Carpet
AVS Headlight covers
AVS Bugdeflector II
Lund Wiper Cowl
Lund Tinted Glass
Lund Soft Bed Cover
V-tech Taillight covers
#18
ZYMOL!
I use it also...extremely good stuff!
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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Superchip, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55 rear, class III towing package with super engine cooling/Auxilary transmission cooling HD package, Heavy duty shocks, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, factory leather wrapped steering wheel, FORD bedliner, FORD black tubular cab steps, K&N air filter, mar-hyde rubberized undercoating, Modine climate filtration system, Bugflector II, Mobil 1 oil, build 7/2000
I use it also...extremely good stuff!
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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Superchip, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55 rear, class III towing package with super engine cooling/Auxilary transmission cooling HD package, Heavy duty shocks, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, factory leather wrapped steering wheel, FORD bedliner, FORD black tubular cab steps, K&N air filter, mar-hyde rubberized undercoating, Modine climate filtration system, Bugflector II, Mobil 1 oil, build 7/2000
#20
Actually, my opinion of Zymol is exactly the opposite. I have black truck and have never used any product worse than Zymol (the blue stuff from K-Mart). It smells great, but the paint doesn't shine and the product leaves greasy streaks after you wipe it off.
I used to use the Mother's California Gold 3-stage system on my old red F-150 and never used anything better.
I'm still looking for an excellent product to use on a black truck. Zaino will be my next attempt...
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VENOM 99
Y2K F-150 SuperCab XLT 4x4
5.4L, 4R70W, 3.55LS
ORP, Trailer Tow, Extang BlackMax tonneau, BedRug
--envious of those with the chrome steel 5-spoke factory wheels--
www.students.uiuc.edu/~cellariu
I used to use the Mother's California Gold 3-stage system on my old red F-150 and never used anything better.
I'm still looking for an excellent product to use on a black truck. Zaino will be my next attempt...
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VENOM 99
Y2K F-150 SuperCab XLT 4x4
5.4L, 4R70W, 3.55LS
ORP, Trailer Tow, Extang BlackMax tonneau, BedRug
--envious of those with the chrome steel 5-spoke factory wheels--
www.students.uiuc.edu/~cellariu
#21
Doggone! I was all set to pick up Zymol and give the new truck a really good wax. Now I'm not so sure.
Hopefully, others will weigh in on this. I've used Nu Finish, followed by Meguiar's Mist and Shine on this black truck and it looks awfully good. Is Zymol the answer, or should I leave well enough alone?
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2000 F-150 Harley-Davidson
Superchip
'99 FLHRCI
'95 XLH
Hopefully, others will weigh in on this. I've used Nu Finish, followed by Meguiar's Mist and Shine on this black truck and it looks awfully good. Is Zymol the answer, or should I leave well enough alone?
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2000 F-150 Harley-Davidson
Superchip
'99 FLHRCI
'95 XLH
#22
#23
I was just wondering if any of you have the same problem Im having? As all of you Im fanatic when it comes to my black truck, Ive started noticing what looks like little cracks in the paint. If you just glance it looks like the lint left behind when using a white towel. Its really starting to get me down because it seems to be getting worse. The truck is 2 years old, and I was wondering if ford has had a problem with this color,(any recalls)? I dont want to scare everyone, just wondering if anyone has had any experience with this. Maybe I will try the black colored wax, as mentioned previously. I have always waxed my truck every 3 months using only Mothers brand waxes and polishes. Thanks for any advice!
shooter
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$98 black 4.2l 4x4 5spd
$superchip
$50 series flowmaster
$profile bug guard
$airbox mod
$A/R bajas 16.5x9.75
$BFG's AT/KO 33x12.50
shooter
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$98 black 4.2l 4x4 5spd
$superchip
$50 series flowmaster
$profile bug guard
$airbox mod
$A/R bajas 16.5x9.75
$BFG's AT/KO 33x12.50
#24
kkirt
Given the choices in question one, I would say it is from your shammy. I have never liked a shammy because they have no ability to suspend dirt particles and drive these into the finish IMO. My towel of choice is a 100% cotton, made in the USA, bath towel for drying after washing and when using the Mist and Wipe or Qwik Detailer and get great results.
shooter
I think your clear coat is scratched or have some contaminants adhered to it and not damaged paint because you said lint was being caught on the finish. However, you said you use Mothers was and polishes every three months which should be enough to minimize this. I know the Az sun is brutal but doubt if the basecoat is damaged. I would use a clay bar to remove *all* contaminants and review regular washing techniques to be sure you are not damaging the finish between waxes.
Lets remember that on late model vehicles, we are not touching the PAINT. If your wax applicator turns the color of your paint, then your vehicle is not clear coated. In our case, we are only cleaning and polishing the "lens" to the paint which is the clear coat. Reducing the refraction of light through the "lens" by eliminating scratches, stains, tree sap, acid rain etching, etc. is what will give you the wet look we are all after. Unfortunately, darker colors will accentuate any imperfections more than lighter colors.
Hope this helps.
[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 11-28-2000).]
[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 11-28-2000).]
Given the choices in question one, I would say it is from your shammy. I have never liked a shammy because they have no ability to suspend dirt particles and drive these into the finish IMO. My towel of choice is a 100% cotton, made in the USA, bath towel for drying after washing and when using the Mist and Wipe or Qwik Detailer and get great results.
shooter
I think your clear coat is scratched or have some contaminants adhered to it and not damaged paint because you said lint was being caught on the finish. However, you said you use Mothers was and polishes every three months which should be enough to minimize this. I know the Az sun is brutal but doubt if the basecoat is damaged. I would use a clay bar to remove *all* contaminants and review regular washing techniques to be sure you are not damaging the finish between waxes.
Lets remember that on late model vehicles, we are not touching the PAINT. If your wax applicator turns the color of your paint, then your vehicle is not clear coated. In our case, we are only cleaning and polishing the "lens" to the paint which is the clear coat. Reducing the refraction of light through the "lens" by eliminating scratches, stains, tree sap, acid rain etching, etc. is what will give you the wet look we are all after. Unfortunately, darker colors will accentuate any imperfections more than lighter colors.
Hope this helps.
[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 11-28-2000).]
[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 11-28-2000).]
#25
I'm tellin' ya guys. The Turtle Wax "Black" polish will do the trick. I picked up a bottle of Zymol and when I read "nutritive oils" they lost me. What a bunch of marketing crapola. With oil in it, no wonder it streaks.
Zymol is a wax.
Mequires is wax.
Wax is a natural product that doesn't last and is old technology.
Turtle Wax is polymer, like NuFinish, and it will last much longer than natural wax. And because it is actually black, it fills in any fine "white" scratches.
Just because it doesn't cost $50 bucks doesn't mean it isn't a good product. And no, I don't work for Turtle Wax.
P.S. wear gloves
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2001 F150 SC SPORT 4X4 FLARESIDE
* Black
* 4.6
* awesome factory 10 spoke 17" wheels
* "MAN"ual shift 4x4
* 3.55 Limited slip
* Captains chairs W/console
* Factory tube steps
* Slider
Zymol is a wax.
Mequires is wax.
Wax is a natural product that doesn't last and is old technology.
Turtle Wax is polymer, like NuFinish, and it will last much longer than natural wax. And because it is actually black, it fills in any fine "white" scratches.
Just because it doesn't cost $50 bucks doesn't mean it isn't a good product. And no, I don't work for Turtle Wax.
P.S. wear gloves
------------------
2001 F150 SC SPORT 4X4 FLARESIDE
* Black
* 4.6
* awesome factory 10 spoke 17" wheels
* "MAN"ual shift 4x4
* 3.55 Limited slip
* Captains chairs W/console
* Factory tube steps
* Slider
#26
I started using a product called Nautical Ease for my boat several years ago. Listening to the advice of other boaters, I "built-up" several layers and was absolutely amazed at how easy it was to clean the boat. Everything just wiped right off (including the air rat crap). I keep the boat in a slip and need to hang bumpers off the side to keep the boat from bumping into the dock. After a couple weeks of rubbing against the hull, I had a large "dull" spot where the bumper had scratched against the boat. A mild cleaner polish cleaned everything up nicely. It turns out that the built-up Nautical Ease (a polymer) was what was getting scratched, not my Gel coat. I started using it on my truck (white) this summer. It did a fair job with one coat, but really started impressing me after the third coat. After the third I would go over the truck once a month and have been very happy. I finally decided to try it on the boss's black Jetta. First coat swirled, second cleaned up, and the third really shined. I know, it sounds like a lot of work but it has been worth it. A lot of extra work getting the first couple coats on, but very easy to maintain from then on. Plus I like the thought of all those small scratches happening on the polymer layer, not the clear coat.
It's not in stores. I ordered through their web-site. Just did a search on Nautical Ease. They also always have a booth at the larger boat shows.
[This message has been edited by MI guy (edited 11-28-2000).]
It's not in stores. I ordered through their web-site. Just did a search on Nautical Ease. They also always have a booth at the larger boat shows.
[This message has been edited by MI guy (edited 11-28-2000).]
#27
I have only had my truck for 3-1/2 months now. Since new, it has appeared to be metallic paint. We all know that it's not. I wash it carefully and wax it often as well. I have always been very good with keeping my vehicles clean and looking new (used to detail cars). This truck is going to be the death of me. I no sooner get it washed and waxed and looking near perfect and it f*%kin' rains or a bird *****s on it. I love my truck and want to keep it nice for a very long time, but I'm not sure if that'll happen. Black is the best looking color, but damn, it's hard to maintain. How can I get the "metallic" look to go away? I was going to try claying it this weekend. If that doesn't do it, then I'm at a loss. I've tried it all...I refuse to wet sand it. It's only got 4600 miles on it. Pls hlp.
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--Lariat4WD--
2000 Ford F-150 Extended Cab Flareside 4x4 Lariat
5.4L;auto;3.55LS;Black/Silver;ORP;remote keyless;floor-shift 4wd;Class 3
Mods so far:
Lund X-Terminator bug shield; Vent Shade Vent Visors; GTS headlight blackouts; Westin Black nerf bars; Pendaliner bedliner; Genuine Steel Products (Longtek Engineering) black Grille/Brush Guard; GTS Tail Blazer II Slotted taillight covers; Clear corner lenses; under hitch backup lights (for now); 2 KC Hilites Daylighter 6" 150W black round off-road lights; Cranked torsion bars to level truck
Pending
2 Polk Audio EX10 10" subs under rear seat; Get Your custom box now!
Sony XM754HX amp
Wish list:
A few more lights; Flowmaster 40 Series single to dual exhaust w/ 18" SS tips out back; Remove factory striping; Optima red top battery; Viper alarm w/ remote start; Build a new house.
Please Visit My Web Site (Updated Daily) and Sign My Guest Book
or e-mail me lariat4wd@yahoo.com
------------------
--Lariat4WD--
2000 Ford F-150 Extended Cab Flareside 4x4 Lariat
5.4L;auto;3.55LS;Black/Silver;ORP;remote keyless;floor-shift 4wd;Class 3
Mods so far:
Lund X-Terminator bug shield; Vent Shade Vent Visors; GTS headlight blackouts; Westin Black nerf bars; Pendaliner bedliner; Genuine Steel Products (Longtek Engineering) black Grille/Brush Guard; GTS Tail Blazer II Slotted taillight covers; Clear corner lenses; under hitch backup lights (for now); 2 KC Hilites Daylighter 6" 150W black round off-road lights; Cranked torsion bars to level truck
Pending
2 Polk Audio EX10 10" subs under rear seat; Get Your custom box now!
Sony XM754HX amp
Wish list:
A few more lights; Flowmaster 40 Series single to dual exhaust w/ 18" SS tips out back; Remove factory striping; Optima red top battery; Viper alarm w/ remote start; Build a new house.
Please Visit My Web Site (Updated Daily) and Sign My Guest Book
or e-mail me lariat4wd@yahoo.com
#28
#29
#30
lariat4wd
You may have "rail dust" embedded into your finish. These are very small metallic particles from shipping your truck by train from the factory to your nearest regional distribution point. If you indeed have rail dust, it is important that it be removed asap as these particle will begin to oxidize and rust.
To remove, use a clay bar (Mothers, Mequiars, Zaino, Clay Magic, etc.). Since you have waxed your truck already, wash it with Dawn dishwashing soap and strip it down to the clear coat. I might recommend that you go over the truck twice with the clay bar to ensure that you got it all.
Hope this helps.
[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 12-29-2000).]
[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 12-29-2000).]
You may have "rail dust" embedded into your finish. These are very small metallic particles from shipping your truck by train from the factory to your nearest regional distribution point. If you indeed have rail dust, it is important that it be removed asap as these particle will begin to oxidize and rust.
To remove, use a clay bar (Mothers, Mequiars, Zaino, Clay Magic, etc.). Since you have waxed your truck already, wash it with Dawn dishwashing soap and strip it down to the clear coat. I might recommend that you go over the truck twice with the clay bar to ensure that you got it all.
Hope this helps.
[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 12-29-2000).]
[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 12-29-2000).]