I removed a red sticker from tailgate (my truck is Oxford White). The sticker was removed fine and I got rid of the glue residue.

However, now it seems that it has bled some red color to the paint (I believe the sticker was there for many years).

What is the best method to get this out of the paint?

 

Thanks! Once you polish your truck be sure to post pictures for all of us to enjoy.


Try a medium grade clay bar, such as the Pinnacle XMT Speed Clay. This should effectively remove the red paint from your white truck. I prefer this particular clay because it's large (200 grams) but it's also soft and pliable so it's easy to use.

 

Nevermind, just ordered all my products based on your previous recommendations !

autogeek-406218

 

Nick I am having a hard time getting the yellowish stain dirt out off my Moto metal 959 chrome rims. I tried using simple green and different soft and more agressive brissle brushes and it does not work . I have the off set or spokes and I cant seem to get the grime out in the corners.These rims are only 4 months old and already I have noticed some pitting on all the rims and these are supposed to be top quality rims. Is this normal ? Can I do anything about the pitting. Should I call the manufacturer of the rims. We did get a lot of snow this winter so I am sure it is the salt that is causing the pitting but I would think these rims should not be pitting that fast. Please let me know your thoughts

 

Are they like these?




The pitting can be caused by the cleaner that you're using (Simple Green is a big no on wheels, especially chrome) and the fact that they have been exposed to salt from the road without any protection being applied beforehand.

For future reference, always use a pH balanced, non-acidic wheel cleaner along with a dedicated wheel sealant to protect the wheels.

 

Yes these are the exact rim

 

That looks like one of the hardest wheels to clean.

Anyways, Nick I am detailing my wakeboard boat in stages and I am to the point of polishing. I have your Megs. boat polish and will be polishing with the Flex3401 and proper foam pads. From what I understand, boat polishes contain oils for the gelcoat.

Do I need to wash/clean the oils from polishing before applying wax to my boat?

 

You can try contacting the manufacturer to see if they offer any warranty with the rims.

The only time you really want to remove the polishing oils is after you have completed a defect removal (swirls and scratches). The polishing oils in some polishes will actually hide the imperfections so to inspect your work to be 100% certain that you removed all the defects it is a good idea to strip the oils using a IPA wipedown. The diluted alcohol will effectively remove any of the polishing oils and strip the panel completely so you can get a accurate reading of your results after polishing.

Mike Phillips wrote a very thorough article on how to properly mix IPA for inspection.

How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results

 

ARRGH! I seems every time I find a product that seems to work for me, I am told not to use it because ..... blah, blah, blah.

Simple Green!

I have been using it to clean the undercarriage. I spray the wheel wells and frame area liberally, brush with a big bristle brush as well as I can, rinse well, let dry and spray (soak) with the cheapest tire shine I can buy. Let it drip dry and next day the bottom looks great. I suppose my muffler will fall off now! What can you recommend to clean the underside?

I also found Simple Green will remove the ugly brown from my tires. I really dislike shiny tires. I like the black satin that looks like a new tire, perhaps even a little less shine. Way long time ago, I use to wipe the tire with a gasoline soaked rag. Looked GREAT! Black satin finish with almost no work. Can't do that now the the new gasoline!!! What can I use?

I always laugh at the instructions for tire cleaner that say do not let it get on the wheels. Do they really think I'm going to dismount my tires just to clean my wheels? What can I use on my tires that will not hurt my factory alloy wheels?

Thanks for your time!

 

Using Simple Green on the undercarriage is fine, but using it on your expensive chrome wheels and painted surfaces is not the best idea as it contains harsh chemicals.

Griot's Garage actually makes a product called Undercarriage Spray. It is a dedicated cleaner that is designed to remove heavy dirt and grime from wheel wells and other under body surfaces.

To effectively remove the old tire dressing without damaging your tire, my cleaner of choice is Amazing Roll-Off. It will deeply clean the tire and also remove any previous dressing that you had applied.

If the prefer a low gloss, matte finish on your tire than Optimum Opti-Bond is the way to go. It is a tire dressing in the form of a gel and is very concentrated and easy to use. It will not sling off the surface of the tire or turn the tires brown over time. It is water based and does not attract dirt or dust.

Amazing Roll-Off is safe to use on wheels that are cool to the touch. Even if they are cool to the touch, it is ideal to spray the wheel with water first and then spray the Amazing Roll-Off on the wheel/tire. This particular cleaner is very strong so I would not recommend letting it sit on the wheel for too long. Spray, agitate, and rinse.

Hey that's what I'm here for!

 

I have always been the type to wanna hand wax my vehicles myself and want to know which product to use for just the painted surfaces, my truck is white sand .......




It has no imperfections or swirls and what I want to know is what would be a good claybar and lubricant to use to clay the truck? Also what would be the best applicator pad to use to apply the wax? And how would I achieve the maximum depth gloss shine, would I apply a polish/glaze and then the wax/sealant last?

 

Ford/GM/Chrysler/MB/Porsche all have service directives that specifically refer to paint correction/contamination procedures and clay bar is not a referred procedure and specifically identified as a method which only removes the surface level paint contaminants and as such, the "root' of the contaminant remains continues to destroy the paint from underneath the surface layer of the paint.

Just remember, Mequire's clay bar is rated at 3500 grit. There much better clay bar products out there rated at much finer grits- so if you are comfortable and believe your paint needs to be wet-sanded, and that is the only and safest way to correct the flaw/issue, then do so but remember, for 90% for all paint contamination issues there are products designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat

These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals.

Assuming you have no paint issues......

Wash the vehicle with a dish washer soap solution (this will remove any wax and grease residue)

using denatured alcohol (it's oil free and available at any hardware/paint store), wipe down the painted surfaces (use a sponge or soft, clean cloth)- this will remove most if not all of any surface contaimination....and the paint is clean.

If you prefer a paint sealant, I would recommend :

Pro Car Care Products/P-73-Q PROFECTION™ PAINT SEALANT (it is the same product dealers use and charge $400 for paint protection). It has a nice amount of polish providing a really nice shine! Easy on and easy off....it actually dries best in heat or direct sunlight......2-3 coats provides excellent loginitvity.

If you prefer wax...I would recommend 3M show car shine.....goes on and off easy, again has just emough polish to provide a typicaly carnuba wax type deep shine.

 

Just bought a 2008 F150 FX4 with Black Leather seats. It is a Supercrew with bench leather seats up front. No rips, tears or wear areas...What is best treatments/ Cleaning and preserving products? Our temps go from minus 20 F degrees in winter to 85 degrees in summer.
Thanks,
sunnydin

 

There are quite a few quality leather care products available, but the ones I've had the best results with are Pinnacle and Leather Masters.

Pinnacle makes a kit that includes everything you need to clean and protect your leather seating surfaces and your dash.



It's a very easy to use two step system that utilizes a pH balanced leather/vinyl cleaner that's safe on all interior surfaces. This cleaner in particular will not dry out or discolor delicate leather surfaces. Follow that up with the leather conditioner to restore the suppleness of the seats and to also protect them.

Once the leather surfaces are cleaned and protected use the included Vinyl and Rubber Protectant to protect the dash and door panels. This protectant is water based and provides a low gloss, matte finish that dries to the touch.

For a more in depth guide on how to properly care for leather, check out the Leather Care Guide.

 

Thanks for your suggestions. As I alreday have some products I need to know if I can still use them Please help.

You suggest a MEGUIAR 205. May I use instead ( I have one bottle) the Meguiars Mirror Glaze 2 Fine Cut Sealer? Whit this Fine-Cut Cleaner Which Polishing Pad may I use with my Porter Cable 7336? I plan to use for Mirror Glaze 2 the Cobra Croos Groove ORANGE but please confirm if it's ok or suggest something better.

Regarding Paint sealer I don't have anything. Which Paint Sealer do you recomend for Candy Red? Which Buffing pad is needed for the recommended paint sealer?

After Paint Sealer. I have a Blitz Wax Carnauba, I plan to use your Cobra Cross Groove™ 6.5 Inch Red LSP Finishing Pad Is it ok?

For clay I already have the Meguiars C2000 and Final Inspection 34 Is this a good replacement of Pinnacle's Ultra Poly Clay?

For the Porter Cable 7336 I need a backing plate. Cobra cross ask for a 5" backing plate. Is this the one? http://www.autogeek.net/lc43125.html

One more thing. I travel a lot and my truck have tart and grime in the lower panels which product is safe to use on a regular basis even after make all the detailing?


P.D.I hope to have your answer before current sales end.


Thanks for your help!