With spring finally here I hope to wax my white 2000 F-150 this weekend. My only concern is that the shop foreman at the local Ford dealership strongly warned against using any actual wax products because of yellowing concerns--I assume he meant products containing carnauba.

On my previous truck, a red 1993 F-150 I've always used Meguiars, and had always been pleased with the results.

So, do I have to be concerned with waxing my white girl? Are there "polishes" that would do the job better, or is there little concern of yellowing anyway? Would I be safe in continuing to use the Meguiars on my new truck?

Thanks,
David
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Madonna: 2000 F-150 XLT, white, 4x4, 5.4, no mods yet.
Mr. Truck: 1993 F-150 XLT, red, 4x4, 5.8, bought new in '93, bravely left me so I could have my Madonna

 

davremote, I've had best luck using Liquid Glass, been using it now for the past 15 years. It's a polish, no cleaner in it, so you'll have to make sure your truck is spot free.
Last can I bought was a year ago, about $15.00, I seen it advertised on tv the other night, first time I've ever saw them do that. Can't go wrong,works great, even in the hot sun.Works on any color....


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DOGCAM

01 F-150 SC Lariat
Flareside 4X2,5.4,3:73
LS, SnugLid,Dynomax
Exhaust,Kenwood Amps,
Speakers,JL 10" Sub

 

Personally, I have never had a problem with carnuba and white finishes. If I was using Meguires though, I would choose the Gold Class surface prep followed by the Gold Class wax vs. the straight carnuba products. Many on this board swear by Zaino www.zainobros.com It is a very good process but is a little more time consuming. Give this www.corral.net/Forums/Forum13/HTML/000017.html a quick read. It gives a different perspective to the carnuba vs. synthetic arguement.

P.S. Don't overlook the benefits of using a clay bar to prep the surface. You won't believe the difference it makes. For info on that check out http://www.zainobros.com/files/z18.htm
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/cleanwitclay.html

Have fun!


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'99 L, JL Stage II Ram Air, Bassani cat-pipes, Borla cat-back, R9 Superchip, Cal-Tracs, Chassis Tech 2" drop shackles, Water Wetter

'93 Cobra, 1 5/8" FMS shorty headers, 2 1/2" Mac cat-pipes, Borla cat-back, 180 degree thermostat, 4" ram air, 3.55 gears, March pulleys, strut tower brace, Kenne Bell flip chip, Crane Hi-6 ignition, Crane coil, Global West Trac-Link, Hurst chrome shifter, Canton oil pan, BFG g-force kd tires

 

Dave,

ALL my cars have been white and I have never had any problems, yellowing or otherwise, using (Mothers) carnuba wax. As far as the clay bar thing, I'm about to do that for the first time myself as a result of all the positive comments I have read here. Good luck. XLT_D

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Y2K Oxford White XLT S.C., V6, Auto, FoMoCo Mud Flaps, Lund Bugflector, Tinted windows, Auxillary BU lights, 2x55W DRL, UNGO Keyless entry, FoMoCo/Duraliner bedliner

 

Hello Davremote,

I just wrote a small piece on clay bars (hoping for the pulitzer this year!)

You can check it out here.

https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/000377.html

I hope this helps!!

-Tills

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2001 F-150XLT SuperCab, Styleside, Silver, 4X4, 4R70, 5.4L, 3.55LS, 17in Rubber, Sport Package, Bedliner, Sliding Rear Window and the Wrong Radiator

[This message has been edited by LeatherRebel (edited 04-28-2001).]

 

While I like the results I get from Zaino on my truck I'd like to share just a few opinions on that rather over-enthusiastic rant by the Zaino Zealot at the Corral.

16 applications per bottle? Obviously he doesn't own a full size truck.

Lasts 4 to 6 months and it's hard to tell when it wears off. Not on a daily driver it doesn't. His cars are obviously Show Cars that spend their lives sheltered from sun, rail dust and acid rain. Try living or working next to an industial center with trains and smoke stacks.

"It literally re-aligns light rays ..."
I can't stop laughing long enough to answer this one.

Why do you think there are speical car washes made for waxes? Isn't there a special car wash made for Zaino too?

Most wax products contains abrasives even when they say it doesn't. It's the other way around, most products that say they don't contain abrasives DON'T.

With enough layers of zaino, you can actually measure the difference. It does the same thing with waxes, if you wait for the wax to harden you can reapply a second coat and it'll layer on top of the first.

Nothing sticks to Zaino. I don't even need the claybar anymore. Wrong on both counts. While it does offer good protection from contaminants it is not a "miracle product". Rail dust and overspray will not come off with just the car wash but they will come off with a clay bar. My truck spends it's weekends outside of the garage and it needs to be clayed every 2 to 3 months.

I could go on but you'll get bored. I just want to make clear that Zaino is a very good product and it doesn't need any of this overblown hype to sell it.
BTW. Sal does stand by his products, guaranteed or your money back.


------------------
1999 Lariat Super Cab, S.B. 5.4L, 3.55 LS, Bright red w/ gold 2-tone,
Leather Captain's Chairs and every option but the leaky slider window.
Mods: Duraliner bedliner, Bugflector II, Hide-a-hooks.
& a leeetle chrome tip on the exhaust.

[This message has been edited by Indyfan (edited 04-30-2001).]

 

dp

[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 05-02-2001).]

 

Rant on

This “piece” you claim to have written is copied directly from www.carcareonline.com/overspray_clays.html Sorry to disappoint you but they don’t give Pulitzers for plagiarism. If your are going to reference this as a source, at least give the guy responsible for this drivel the credit.

The vast majority of trucks on this board and most all late model vehicles are clearcoated. You never touch the paint. The clearcoat is basically the plastic wrapper for protection and serves as the “lenses” to the paint. All you are trying to do is clean and polish this lenses to make it as smooth as possible. Clearcoat has no use for, does not need nor will it absorb any of these wonderful “emollient oils” this guy speaks of. Only finishes without clearcoat will benefit from these. In addition, when you use even just a cleaner wax on a non-clearcoated finish, you get pigment up into the applicator. *This* is somewhat like washing your face by peeling off the top layer of skin.

I can’t understand why you continue to degrade a product based on the writings of some minor league product distributor when clearly all other information points in favor of it. What you are telling us is that companies like Meguiar’s, Mother’s, Erazer, Zaino, Clay Magic, etc., who have national reputations to protect and maintain, are going to put out a product that, in the hands of the average user, destroys your trucks finish. Not to mention the countless recommendations and testimonials on this board as well as ANY of the other boards like LS1, corvette, the Corral, Stangnet, etc.

Geez, get into the mainstream of thinking Chicken Little. Have you heard the they discovered the earth isn’t flat and the universe doesn’t revolve around the sun?

Rant off

Indyfan – While I would admit the Corral post is a bit over the top (okay way over the top) in many ways, I was referencing this post in the context of the original question, the properties of carnuba and the eventual comparison of carnuba vs. synthetics. I was certainly not trying to say use Zaino because this guy says to but I did think the comments in the post regarding this subject was worth consideration.


[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 05-02-2001).]

[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 05-02-2001).]

 

I have had white vehicles for years (many
advantages to that color) and have never had
any problem with discoloration from waxing.
I've used Raindance with no problems. They make a carwash that supposedly doesn't remove their wax so much and I use it, too. A couple of things I think are helpful are wetting the vehicle down thoroughly before washing it - softens the residue, does less damage to clearcoats - and using a soft, long handled brush for washing. (The kind truckers use on their 18 wheelers.) The brush works very fast and it is easy to rinse out abrasive residue from it which helps protect clearcoat.