I tried somee of Mequirs #26 HI-tech yellow wax and must say it was a real pain to get off. I followed the direstions exactly and this stuff is very hard to get off. I had to use way to much pressure to get it off and then after most of it was off I had to buff it out becuase it created little spots ( the way paint looks if you get a mist of armor all on it). I must say once I got it all "buffed" out it did have a good shine to it. I don't know if it was just my truck or if it's because the wax has a high content of carnuba in it or what. Anybody else used this stuff? What did you think?

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97 Ford F150 XLT 4wd 4.6L auto, Std cab/Long bed, PW,PL, and PM, captian chairs w/arm rests
Sylvania Cool Blue Bulbs, Ford logo hitch and license plate, tinted windows, blackouts front and rear(w/ford logos on front blackouts),ventvisors all around, painted logos on door sills and under hood, 55w backup lights, K&N Filter, custom 4x4 emblems,and much more to come


thomaswright5714@hotmail.com

 

KYFordFreak, that sounds like the same problem I had when waxing with Zymol Carbon. (Carnuba wax, too.) Had a heckuva time getting those little spots you described off of the finish and it took quite a bit of work.

Zymol claims that if one has problems with smearing to let the vehicle sit in the sun for a bit and then buff it out once again. The day I did mine was cool and cloudy and I didn't have that option. After finally buffing mine out, I used Mist and Shine detailer on it, and that really got rid of the spots and made it look great.

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2000 F150 Harley-Davidson: Superchip, K&N FIPK
Hard Tonneau, Hidden Hitch, 2-Meter Rig (KG0UK)
Motorcycles: '99 FLHRCI, '95 XLH, '65 305 Dream

 

I just waxed my truck with it and had no problem at all with it. It took a lottle bit of elbow greese to get it off but other then that I was very happy with it.

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97 F-150 Flareside
S/C
4x4 5.4L auto 3.55 LS.


Mods so far:
K Air Filter
SUPERCHIP!
Westin Grille Guard
JVC 12 disc CD Changer
2 (for now) 165 watt KC Daylighters
Must...Resit...Mudder...Syndrome.....

Future Plans
Hidden winch
Lift
Roll Bar


http://www.f150world.com/sprhck/

 

Buy an empty spray bottle at the grocery or hardware store. Fill it with water (I use distilled water) and spray a fine mist on the surface of your truck after waxing and buffing. I've found this perfect in removing the wax residue.

 

Y'all are using too much. You may think you arent but you are. I have detailed cars for over 10 years and know from experience it takes a WHOLE lot less than you think it does.

One problem could be that your apint isn't clean. Either use clay, glaze (Klasse AIO&SG), pinnacle, Meguirs #7 etc. Then use the carnuaba. If you dont clean the paint before the carnuaba wax you are only sealing the contaminants to the paint.

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ORDERED 4/16/01 - WOOHOO!!!
2001 F-150 Supercrew XLT 4wd. 5.4V8, 507A, 3.55LS, Captains chairs, bed extender, cab steps, power moonroof, power seat, skid plates, trlr towing, aluminum wheels, AM/FM cass with 6 cd changer. Bright red clearcoat with DARK graphite interior

IMMEDIATE MODS:
Wet Okole seat covers
Fox Weatherboots front and back
AR Baja's 16x8
MIchelin LTX M/S 265/75/16
Tint front
Line-X
Ravin Z-55 Duals out the back
Lightening headlights, corners and tails

 

I got to tell you, that Cherry Wet Wax goes on and comes off so easy. I've been waxing cars a long time and this is the easiest stuf I've ever used. I've had that problem with some of the mequires product as well as some turtle wax's. Glad I've switched.

The clay bar idea might help you to.

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- 2001 F150 Harley Davidson Special
- 1993 Mazda Miata, wifes car
- 1994 Harley Davidson Heritage
- 1976 Honda CB750K, Original
- 1965 Honda 305 Dream, Original
- 1971 Triumph Trophy 650, Original
- 1971 Norton Commando
- 1970 Honda Trail 90, Original
- Yamaha 500 Short Tracker, racing #69
- 1984 Yamaha Virago 1000, wifes bike
- 1981 Honda Passport 70, wifes bike

 

KYFORDFREAK
From your discription it sounds like you might have had some contaminates on the paint
Like either overspray, fallout or industrial contaminates. That might explain way you had the small marks like you get from flying tire dressing. What it sounds like is the #26 held onto the fallout or whatever your had on your paint and left behind a small build up of wax. All the rubbing you did finally got the wax off but I'll bet it didn't remove the small particals that originally gave you a problem. As a couple people suggested use the clay first. I know some claim that clay could screw up your paint. It could if you drop it on the ground and continue to use the dirty piece,or get a clay that's to aggressive.
We move about 150 bars a month and have NEVER had CLAY screw up a vehicle. Use the correct clay (not everytime) and wax (cherry wax?) your vehicle and Ill bet you will solve your funny small mark problem.GOOD LUCK coatsproducts.com

 

I agree with some of the other posts. I think you had contaminents already on the surface, and used too much wax. I used a Clay Magic clay bar, Meguirs #9 Swirl Remover, then the hy-tech yellow wax. The finish came out better than the day I picked the truck up, and it didn't take as much elbow grease to remove as you described. Hope this helps for the next appication, just don't give up an the Meguiars, I believe they are the best products on the market.

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I think the problem was that I probably was trying to use too much and the sheetmetal was cold to touch. Seemed like after I rubbed it enough to heat the wax up to melt I was getting a good coverage then. Still not sure about the spots, they were not rough like contaminats, more like greasy spots. Although I was still planning on getting a clay bar and trying one at the next wax job (whicj for me will probably in about 3 weeks). I think I will take the old wax off wash it, clay it, wax it with a regular mequirs wax (not sure of #), then use the #26 wax, and then maybe even a glaze ( like The Wax's Shop super slick glaze). Thanks for all the replies, now if I could just get the same on my exhuast post (Wanted: more sound and power)

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97 Ford F150 XLT 4x4 4.6L auto, Std cab/Long bed, 3.55LS rear axle, PW,PL, and PM, captian chairs w/arm rests
Sylvania Cool Blue Bulbs, Ford logo hitch and license plate, tinted windows, blackouts front and rear(w/ford logos on front blackouts),ventvisors all around, painted logos on door sills and under hood, 55w backup lights, K&N Filter, custom 4x4 emblems,and much more to come


thomaswright5714@hotmail.com

 

Try One Grand Blitz--easy on/off.
Also, very durable and produces a very nice shine. Better than Megauirs IMO.

 

KY. Whatever products you use (cleaners, polishes or glazes) make the wax your LAST step. Also you shouldn't need any other Meguiar's wax, the #26 should work fine. As some of the other suggested don't use so much and also you don't have to let it dry before removing the excess.

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1999 Lariat Super Cab, S.B. 5.4L, 3.55 LS, Bright red w/ gold 2-tone,
Leather Captain's Chairs and every option but the leaky slider window.
Mods: Duraliner bedliner, Bugflector II, Hide-a-hooks.
& a leeetle chrome tip on the exhaust.

 

When I've clayed, I've made a point to use Dawn to remove old wax first. Is this a must or can you clay without stripping the old wax off first. Also, How often do some of you clay? I figure it's maybe a yearly thing. Shouldn't need it more than that I wouildn't think.

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- 2001 F150 Harley Davidson Special
- 1993 Mazda Miata, wifes car
- 1994 Harley Davidson Heritage
- 1976 Honda CB750K, Original
- 1965 Honda 305 Dream, Original
- 1971 Triumph Trophy 650, Original
- 1971 Norton Commando
- 1970 Honda Trail 90, Original
- Yamaha 500 Short Tracker, racing #69
- 1984 Yamaha Virago 1000, wifes bike
- 1981 Honda Passport 70, wifes bike

 

I used the Mothers clay bar system once. I have kept the paint clean and waxed since then(two years ago),and never felt another speck of junk on the paint. The reason I used the clay to begin with is some damn bridge paint overspray from Wisconsin. I still have gray specks all over my black trim from that incident. They did offer to have my truck detailed to remove it,but I refused to let those guys touch my truck
I have never tried the Meguiars#26,although I may in the future. Mothers and Meguiars have always been my favorites,,,,,98

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98 F-150 4.6 Litre XLT2wd Ext. cab
Yokahama AVS/ST's,,too noisy
prarie tan/tan int.
K/N gen.II fipk
custom dual exh/gibson rectangle tips/rear exiting.
color matched snuglid
Superchip!!!
Clear front corners
Speedglo gauges w/carbon fiber overlay
Carbon fiber Grant styling ring wheelcover
Stillen Quad light air dam,with Pilot PL-240 driving lights
Billet third brake light cover/oval pattern
Euro taillights,with APC red bulbs
Cobra 75WXST cb w/weather alert
Kenwood cd w/Radio Shack speakers,and Soundstream P203e amplifier//Single 10" sub
Viper alarm
On the waywheels,tires,Proglass shaker hood,Steel Horse C5 leather seat
Come see my new pictures@ www.my-f150.com
WOW,what a cool site!

FENDER GUITARS ROCK!!!

I just "wish" it was lowered

 

HEY KY ! I use mequirs#26 on my new supercrew
and I really like this product. I find it
very easy to apply & remove. MAYBE you are using to much at one time. mequirs says 2-3
light coats are better than one heavy coat.

GOOD LUCK!
TONKA01

2001 F-150 SUPERCREW 4X4 XLT OFFROAD
PACKAGE 5.4L, 3.55LS COLOR DEEP WEDGEWOOD
BLUE METALLIC WITH ARIZONA BEIGE ACCENT
BORN 04/01 ! WE CALL HIM TONKA01 !

 

I've used the mequiers #7 for years. Works great. Really only need to wax twice a year and I also hand wash at least once a week. I read a article in Mustang Monthly from a concours show car guy that said to only wax a small panel and then immediately lightly buff off the excess. It will then almost haze over instantly and the final buffing can occur. BTW I've had the same can of wax for eight years, waxing two large vehicles twice a year. A little does go a long way.

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'00 EB AWD.K&N,
Whitewalls turned in.
K&N Cat-Back
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