Is this correct
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I'm not from Meguiar's, and I only occasionally use their products (I've had great luck with Zymol), but here's a nice detailed post in their forum that describes their "recommended" process:
Wash, clean, polish, protect, maintain
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ad.php?t=37320
Wash, clean, polish, protect, maintain
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ad.php?t=37320
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I'm curious, why wash again? There is nothing gained from it, and there is always the chance of introducing new issues to the finish.
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Dave
#13
Clay Bar
Ford/GM/Chrysler/MB/Porsche all have service directives that specifically refer to paint correction/contamination procedures and clay bar is not a referred procedure and specifically identified as a method which only removes the surface level paint contaminants and as such, the "root' of the contaminant remains continues to destroy the paint from underneath the surface layer of the paint.
Just remember, Mequire's clay bar is rated at 3500 grit. There much better clay bar products out there rated at much finer grits- so if you are comfortable and believe your paint needs to be wet-sanded, and that is the only and safest way to correct the flaw/issue, then do so but remember, for 90% for all paint contamination issues there are products designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat
These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals. If you would like a copy, pm me.
Ford/GM/Chrysler/MB/Porsche all have service directives that specifically refer to paint correction/contamination procedures and clay bar is not a referred procedure and specifically identified as a method which only removes the surface level paint contaminants and as such, the "root' of the contaminant remains continues to destroy the paint from underneath the surface layer of the paint.
Just remember, Mequire's clay bar is rated at 3500 grit. There much better clay bar products out there rated at much finer grits- so if you are comfortable and believe your paint needs to be wet-sanded, and that is the only and safest way to correct the flaw/issue, then do so but remember, for 90% for all paint contamination issues there are products designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat
These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals. If you would like a copy, pm me.