Help with Swirl Removal
#1
Help with Swirl Removal
So I pulled a stupid move over the winter and relied on an auto car wash for a few months based on recommendations from people I know. This induced a medium-high amount of swirls in my paint that I'm aiming to get rid of. I'd like to attempt to remove it myself with my DA. In the past I've used it with Meguiars 3 step and nano wax, but now I'm switching to Poorboys products.
I'm going with the following:
1. QD/clay bar
2. SSR 2.5
3. Black hole glaze
4. Natty blue Liquid
My questions are: what speed settings should I use on the DA for the SSR, and should I use a cutting pad like the this?
What speed settings/pad should I use to apply the glaze?
Is there any special procedure for applying the SSR with a cutting pad? Or do I just make 5-6 passes?
Thanks in advance!
I'm going with the following:
1. QD/clay bar
2. SSR 2.5
3. Black hole glaze
4. Natty blue Liquid
My questions are: what speed settings should I use on the DA for the SSR, and should I use a cutting pad like the this?
What speed settings/pad should I use to apply the glaze?
Is there any special procedure for applying the SSR with a cutting pad? Or do I just make 5-6 passes?
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by Dkory22; 06-01-2011 at 09:15 PM.
#2
#3
I have used SSR 2.5 with a white Lakes pad with good results but it was on a my Makita rotory polisher. What kind of machine are you using to do the correction? Is it a D/A or is it a rotory like my Makita because it will make a difference on product choice? Also what are you going to follow the SSR 2.5 up with? You can either do SSR1 on a Lakes white and Pro Polish on a Lakes soft blue/black or skip to Pro Polish on a Lakes blue/black depending on how the paint looks after the SSR2.5.
http://www.autodetailingsolutions.ne...165-hp-da.html
http://www.autodetailingsolutions.ne...165-hp-da.html
#4
#5
You may want to go with SSR2, Pro Polish, Black Hole, Natties the SSR2.5 can put little j looking marks in the clear and they can be a bugger to remove with a D/A as I learned on a junk test hood. I almost always use a glaze like BH or WD but it's purley a personal choice. I know most of the detailing elders will try 2-4 test product/pad combos to see what works best on the finish they are working on before starting.
Last edited by dsq3973; 06-02-2011 at 01:25 PM.
#6
Thanks for the help! I'll go with SSR2, Pro Polish, and Black Hole.
One final set of questions:
Which speed settings should I use on the DA? I had a list of speed settings for the Meguiars products I had been using. Something like:
SSR2: 3-5
Pro Polish: 3-5
Black Hole - I'll probably apply by hand assuming there's no difference in this step?
One final set of questions:
Which speed settings should I use on the DA? I had a list of speed settings for the Meguiars products I had been using. Something like:
SSR2: 3-5
Pro Polish: 3-5
Black Hole - I'll probably apply by hand assuming there's no difference in this step?
#7
Thanks for the help! I'll go with SSR2, Pro Polish, and Black Hole.
One final set of questions:
Which speed settings should I use on the DA? I had a list of speed settings for the Meguiars products I had been using. Something like:
SSR2: 3-5
Pro Polish: 3-5
Black Hole - I'll probably apply by hand assuming there's no difference in this step?
One final set of questions:
Which speed settings should I use on the DA? I had a list of speed settings for the Meguiars products I had been using. Something like:
SSR2: 3-5
Pro Polish: 3-5
Black Hole - I'll probably apply by hand assuming there's no difference in this step?
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#9
#10
I tend on the higher speeds to produce more heat and breakdown.
As for BH...no reason not to use the DA for this step too. If you have a finish pad...use it..BH will apply quickly and the machine makes this step easy!
What color of Pad are you using from lake for SSR?
As for BH...no reason not to use the DA for this step too. If you have a finish pad...use it..BH will apply quickly and the machine makes this step easy!
What color of Pad are you using from lake for SSR?
The only reason I would try to avoid using the DA on the glaze is that I know after an application of SSR followed by PP my hands will feel practically arthritic...and I'm 24. Is the glaze more effective if applied by a machine?
#11
I was thinking I'd go with the Lake's white polishing pad for the SSR from dsq3973's suggestion.
The only reason I would try to avoid using the DA on the glaze is that I know after an application of SSR followed by PP my hands will feel practically arthritic...and I'm 24. Is the glaze more effective if applied by a machine?
The only reason I would try to avoid using the DA on the glaze is that I know after an application of SSR followed by PP my hands will feel practically arthritic...and I'm 24. Is the glaze more effective if applied by a machine?
In my opinion, the only way to fully utilize a glaze step is by machine.
#12
Aha! I'll definitely try to lighten up . I still haven't removed the handle from my DA and I've been reading that most people do that immediately - that may be the problem right there.
I'll go with the machine for the glaze step as well then. I take it that will also require a blue/black "finessing" foam pad?
I'll go with the machine for the glaze step as well then. I take it that will also require a blue/black "finessing" foam pad?
#13
Aha! I'll definitely try to lighten up . I still haven't removed the handle from my DA and I've been reading that most people do that immediately - that may be the problem right there.
I'll go with the machine for the glaze step as well then. I take it that will also require a blue/black "finessing" foam pad?
I'll go with the machine for the glaze step as well then. I take it that will also require a blue/black "finessing" foam pad?
Get rid of the handle. Keep it if you need it for something in the future.