I like that and totally agree

 

I also agree!

 

That is correct whether it's M105/M205 or the Ultimate Compound/Ultimate Polish duo.

 

^^^ thanks. So need compound, polish then wax?

Since the car is new should I compound, polish and wax or would a polish and wax work fine. I hate to compound and remove clear on a car that's new. I took some up close picks over the weekend that I'll post later. I think I'm just being OCD about it. It's an every day driver so there's not really a need to have it flawless. I'm so use to my truck which you can hardly tell it's dirty.

 

Waiting on the pics

It's new and you want it to look the best. Swirls and fine scratches are a result of and improper wash process.
The swirls you have may be a result of D.I.S.O. AKA Dealership Installed Swirl Option. I see it all the time.

I know when you think of compound you think of a coarse abrasive product that remove lots of OEM paint.
That may have been true in the days of single stage paint then removing top paint revealed shiny new paint.
Today's clear coats (although applied very thin) can be can be gently polished with a product like Megs UC.
This product is formulated and tested to be used on modern clear coat paint to achieve a swirl free finish.
Although UC is called a Compound that really is a "consumer" term for a S.M.A.T. technology paint polish.

 

If you don't mind spending some bucks, this new system is getting excellent reviews and is very easy to use:

http://www.autodetailingsolutions.ne...ction-kit.html

How to use it:

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...rection-System

 

^^^ Agreed!

 

My best advice is, buy yourself a painting booth (virtually dust free) wash the car inside of this..... Then just leave it in there for as long as you want it to look good..... because if you take it outside "anywhere" it will look like a dust magnet in about 20 minutes. Rain will knock the dust down pretty well.... but road grime and waterspots look worse on black paint, than dust.

Buy hey, for those first few minutes after you have washed it, Wow ! Black sure looks nice.

Fish

 

Fish is right. I have found a coat of carnauba wax seems to attract dust.
On the other hand a sealant like Zaino Z-2 doesn't seem to attract dust.

 

^^^ Agreed

I like Zaino Z-2 with ZFX on black. It has a GREAT shine, longevity and doesn't attract dust like carnauba.
The three (minimum) Zaino products are Z-2, ZFX and Z-6. With ZFX you can apply three coats in one afternoon.

The one main thing about Z-2 is it's a finish polish (actually a sealant). Polish your paint FIRST before applying Z-2.
If you have fine scratches and swirls after Z-2 you will have very shiny scratches and swirls. Don't ask me how I know.

Z-2 is a bit different to prepare and apply than other waxes and sealants. I'll be glad to tell you my procedure if you want.

 

I have found that 100% cloth diapers (24" x 24") doubled up are the best for washing/drying....not only in terms of price/longevity but the paint feels like it's been polished each time. FYI- the diapers must be flat fold (meaning no seams) and washed 3 times (typically) to ensure softness and absorbsion.

I have found that flannel (100% cotton) outperforms the microfiber wax removal towels consistently- cheaper, better, last longer, gives a much better shine/result

Paint Care

I have painted vehicles with lacquer, acrylic enamel, urethane and laytex and owned many a black car (for some reason it’s the only color my wife thinks exists)!

Megs are not bad products but they just don't hold up or work as well as commercial/professional grade products (that actual cost the same or less). Here are my recommendations...

1. The absolute best washing device known to man is a long boar hair brush....yeah it's stiff when dry but when wet, it is softer than any cotton towel you could find & because of the tips only touching the paint, the swirl marks are almost 100% eliminated. Available at griots garage or Erie Brush & Manufacturing Corp, 860 W. Fletcher, Chicago (but you need to have a company name to purchase, no individual sales) .

The next best option, 100% cotton diaper (Babies r' us has em- about $20 for a bag). wash them 2-3 times with fabric softener before using them for washing & drying. For washing, without contact dirt on the vehicle, use the open butt of a garden hose, on low to apply water just ahead of the wash diaper....it almost makes the towel float and the remaining dirt float off the paint without touching.

2. Soap...I recommend: No7 Car Wash Concentrate
Available at any True Value Hardware; Mfg by RainDance/ArmorAll Corp. It has been around for 40+ years, is a powder, very inexpensive and us about 1 tablespoon per 3 gallons. It also has anti-water spotting agents which until you try it the first time, you would not believe the advantage of drying a black car.

3. General paint maintenance
General paint cleaning (if required) - use a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol & water (denatured is available at any hardware store & is oil free). It will remove any wax/polish and most all environmental contamination & ensure you are starting with a very clean surface.

Swirl mark removal (if needed), 3M Imperial Hand Glaze (there is a specific one for dark colors & one for lighter colors). Not only does it fill/remove swirl marks & light scratches it feeds oils back into the paint giving a very, very deep look.- now IMHO it is a good product and easily available...but the best I have use is made by Pro....Swirl Eliminator & Polish. I typically avoid multi-use products but this realy works well for aboout 1/2 the price of the 3M line.

Wax/polish...

The absolute best ($ for $) IMHO is "Satin Cream" (for dark colors), it is made by BAF & distributed through Pro Car Care products. It is very easy to work with either by hand, orbital or buffer. It has the same acrylic hardener as the high dollar paint sealants but it has 30% German imported carnauba....no, your arm will not fall off putting it on or taking it off & it has a very mild polish in it as well. Even parking the vehicle outside, the MFG gives a 6 months warranty before another application is required. I use this personally on my toys & daily drivers (which include a 1997 black Cougar sport) and all I can tell you are not even bugs like to stick to the paint- most of the time when water is applied they just float off- bird poop is just as easy. No smeary look either- very clean clear deep look. On my toys, I give them a fresh coat about every 2 years (literally, even for a show), my daily drivers (I have one that sits outside), I apply to the entire vehicle every 6 months, and do the hood, roof and trunk every 3 months (probably overkill, but I know it is well protected from the elements including industrial fallout)
BAF Industries 1910 S. Yale Street Santa Ana, CA 92704 800-437-9893

An excellent alternate product is 3M Perfect It Show Car Liquid Wax- a silicone wax/polish but excellent results as well, just maybe about 90% of the quality of the satin cream.

For light dust.....Dust cloth:

Las-Stik Manufacturing Co.
157 North “B” Street
Hamilton, OH 45013
513-868-0555
800-572-3488

It is a family owned company, the material they use is imported (or at least it use to be) from Europe. They have been around for 50+ years and make absolutely the best dust cloth ever made. About $5 each and they last a lifetime! Never wash just throw away or use as a wash cloth after washing once. In comparison from the dust brooms/brushes, they allow you to get into every crevice and they do not create swirl marks and actually visually reduce any existing swirl marks.

About claybar....

Ford/GM/Chrysler/MB/Porsche all have service directives that specifically refer to paint correction/contamination procedures and clay bar is not a referred procedure and specifically identified as a method which only removes the surface level paint contaminants and as such, the "root' of the contaminant remains continues to destroy the paint from underneath the surface layer of the paint.

Just remember, Mequire's clay bar is rated at 3500 grit. There much better clay bar products out there rated at much finer grits- so if you are comfortable and believe your paint needs to be wet-sanded, and that is the only and safest way to correct the flaw/issue, then do so but remember, for 90% for all paint contamination issues there are products designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat
https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...y-bar-2006.jpg

https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...r-bar-1997.jpg


These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals.

Jeff

 

Black is definately a career!! very well put..
3M make an excellent range of professional polishes.
On my black pickup I have used the 3M Ultrafine with a PC7424 followed by Duragloss products, I have had great success with these products and the give excellent life, and an awesome "wet" deep gloss.
There is no easy fix with black, and I NEVER go thru a car wash brush or touchless!!
Good luck with your 'stang, a very nice looking car

 

Forget the Megs or PC D/A buffer; the Griots Garage is the best one out there. Most power (less work/time for you) and a lifetime guarantee. The Ult Compound and Ult Polish work great, but I suggest Blackfire Wet Diamond sealant.

Jim