My gf recently purchased a 2012 Mustang GT 2 weeks ago. I tried taking her into Silver or Dark Gray, but by all means she had to have black. Today was the first time I washed it and already hate black. No matter what I do I can't get all the water spots off. The dealer had detailed it and I waxed it again today, but even wax disnt remove them all. Also, there are minor swirls that I can see at certain angles. Also when wiping the wax off i have to fight with streaking. And the other thing I dislike is that an hour after I finished cleaning it there were dust specks all over. Can someone tell me if there's something I can use to get the water spots all out? Any other cleaning techniques would also be helpfull.

I'm glad my truck I'd Gray. It's twice the size of here car but a lot easier to clean.

 

I'd start off by reading the "detailing sticky" thread.

Wash
Clay
Correct
Protect

It sounds like you are using ordinary over-the-counter products and possibly not using them correctly. You need quality products and use them with the proper techniques.

 

Black sure is pretty when cleaned right but it is a tough color because it shows every little flaw. Some guys have the talent and time to keep em clean and make it look easy. I am not one of those guys. I will Never own a black vehicle again.

 

You are going to hate that car even more down the road I have already told my wife her there are no more black vehicles. Start with the detailing sticky and go from there.

 

I've been needing to order a detailing kit, but have been so busy lately that I don't have the time to detail anything. What makes it even worse is she isn't one to take care of a vehicle. If I don't wash it, it won't get cleaned. It's being used as an everyday driver so keeping it perfect won't be possible. I'll try to do the best I can though.

Here are a few photos I got today.

 

Well, one thing that will help combat the water spots is NEVER wash that thing in the sun. Heck, I never wash my white truck in the sun!

Wax will not help you at all. You need a mild polish (Meguiars 205, Mother's Power Polish, etc) or a cleaner (Mothers Pre-Wax Cleaner). Depending on how bad they are, you may get away with a one step cleaner wax also (Mothers Carnuba Cleaner Wax). What are you currently using??

 

Believe it's the Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Meguiars Liquid Wax. I used the compound in a couple of places and noticed it removed them but since the car is new I didn't think it would need it. But, at the same time it probably does depending how long it sat out in the weather at the dealershhip.

 

Nice looking car!

 

I am going to tell you flat out detailing a black car by hand sucks!!! I think I have close to or over 20 hours into the exterior correction work of my wifes black Ford Five Hundred. That was with a Makita rotory and I am still not finished with the car because I noticed some buffer trails that I need to fix. Good luck with that car because my wifes car kicked my *** in the first round but I'll get her whipped into shape before winter get here.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ca...e-hundred.html

 

Which exact Meguiar's Liquid Wax?

 

It's the Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Wax. Is there anything I can pick up from a local autoparts store until I can order a professional detailing kit with a polisher?

Also, when I do order the kit what polisher should I get. I haven't used one before. My intention is to practice on my company truck first. lol


I just spent an hour or so watching youtube video's. The Mequiar's Ultimate Compound is more abrasive than the scratch X 2.0 and swirl X. I only used the Ultimate compound on the hood. I didn't do the entire car. After watching how many passes need to be made I don't think the little bit of hand rubbing I did was of much good. Should I try the swirl X then the scratch X before going to the Ultimate?

 

Those are both excellent products. You just have to use them properly.

The wax needs to be applied VERY SPARINGLY and allowed to dry before removal. I use Megs NXT 2.0 and I apply it to the whole truck before removing it, going back in the same order.

If you want a machine, I'd recommend a DA such as a Porter Cable 7424XP or Meguiars G110, and then use the new Meguiars microfiber kit.

http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-7424xp.html
http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-dua...sher-g110.html

http://www.autogeek.net/da-microfibe...r-kit-5in.html
http://www.autogeek.net/da-microfibe...r-kit-6in.html

There are articles over on the Meguiar's forum on the proper use of the MF kit. In addition to the starter kit, you will need a pad brush unless you have an air compressor.

Then top it by hand with a pure carnauba wax for extra "pop" and protection - which will make the black look fantastic. Example:

http://www.autogeek.net/meg26hityelw.html

 

Thanks. I read those articles later tonight.

 

The Ultimate "Trio" is Ultimate Compound, Ultimate Polish and Ultimate (liquid) wax.

I prefer the liquid as it is easier to apply and remove and the liquid formula does not stain trim.
Ultimate Paste wax is the exact same formula but the additive to make it a paste stains trim.



For consumer products these three make a great combo.
Ultimate wax is the longest lasting wax Meguiars makes.

For a polisher I would suggest the Griot's Garage 6" Dual Action.
Add to that the 5" Meguiar's Microfiber DA Kit to stay swirl free.

BTW - "Black is not a color. It's a career!"

I just did this challenger. The black metal flake came out crisp and crystal clear. If you own a black car you need a DA.


It should be illegal to sell a black car to someone with OCD!

 

Also, unless I misread, you can't go from Ultimate Comoound to a LSP. You have to do some sort of polish step after the compound.