Last week I ordered the Porter Cable 7424XP, pads, Meguiars 105 &205...and I could punch myself in the face for waiting this long to get into the machine thing...

2000 F-150 Harley Edition (black of course), and with only 44k on the clock and it sitting outside for only the last couple of years, I can't believe how much damage has been done to the clearcoat...it's not a show truck, but it is damn near new looking and I didn't expect to have to go any further than cutting compound...so...just wanted to pick your brains on a couple things...

-After the swirls and spots disappeared, I noticed deeper spots in the hood...acid rain I suspect. How far is the clay bar going to go...or should I expect to go a little deeper?
-At 2000rpm I went #105 Cutting Compound with W8006 pad, then #205 Polisher with the W9006 pad, then hand waxed with Gold Carnuba wax, all Meguiars...is my product/pad formula right?
-I am having a hard time wrapping my mind around the different foam pads having big differences in cutting...recommendations?
-I would like to try the wool pad for better cutting...any thoughts on this?

I have read a lot of info. and watched a lot of youtube concerning this process, but I'm hoping to get a little owner insight on it!! Thanks...

 

Go with the new Meguiars microfiber pads.

Jim

 

Thanks for the tip Jim...is this a pad I will want to use for all stages?

 

Go to the Autogeek or meguiars web sites and look it up. Two different pads: one for compounding and one for polishing, with a bottle of stuff for each type. Supposed to be wonderful! They also make a kit; lots of sales on the sites, too.

Although I use #105 and #205, I like Ultimate compound and Ult Poiish better, unless you need lots of "Nuts." Ult Polish not only polishes, but adds lots of oils to make the paint deep and wet-looking. The polishing step is most important for the final shine. Try the UP at a fast speed first, then slow it down a bit for a final polish. Make sure your pad rotates all the time and that you travel slow over the paint.

Right now3 I'm using BlackFire Wet Diamond for a sealant (LSP), topped with Wet Glaze 2.0.

So shiny, wet and deep, it makes you blind.

Jim

 

We don't believe you if you don't have pics, lol

 

Welcome to the PC club! Paint preparation is the key!

Here are a few hints I've been using for a couple of years.

First, Remove the side handle and replace it with a (Ace Hardware) screw.
This keeps the black cap on the machine and allows better feel and control.
Also, make a mark on the backing plate with a sharpie to view rotation.



Second, I prefer to use the 5" backing plate and Lake Country 5.5" flat pads with a PC. Here's a pic of some of my pads.
Wool pads are probably way too aggressive to use for your paint. I prefer to use LC 5.5" orange pads to get work done.



Third, the Meguiars M105 and M205 is an excellent combo for polishing your paint.



Fourth, as mentioned above the Megs Microfiber pads and D300 are excellent swirl killers.
You will need a "bug sponge" or compressed air to keep the MF disc clean during the detail.



The pics below were done on my truck using only the PC and the products mentioned above.



Outstanding results can be achieved with a PC and the Kevin Brown Method to polish paint.



I personally, would use the M105/M205 then 3 coats of Wet Glaze 2.0 then 2 coats of BFWD.
After the first coat of BFWD wait at least 12-24 hours before applying the 2nd BFWD layer.

If you have any questions I'll be glad to suggest process and products to assist in your finish.
E.G. Amount of pressure applied to the machine top, arm speed moving across the paint etc.
What Orbits Per Minute (OPM) speeds (PC #) & hand pressure are you using with the products?

 

Not sure what it is without a close up picture.
I'm not sure about your pads. I use Lake Country, I don't know how they compare.
There are Polishing pads and finishing pads. I prefer a 5" backing plate on a PC with 5.5" Lake Country flat pads.
I use LC Orange for my swirl removal work horse with M105 and LC white with M205.
Not unless you REALLY know what your doing. Always use the LEAST aggressive method first!
I spent my Thursday cleaning massive holograms off of a white car that a hack did with wool.

Always keep your pad flat! For PC Newbies I suggest using "constant pressure" pads

My "go-to" polishing products/process
M105/LC Orange 5.5" flat pad/15lb hand pressure/1 inch per second arm speed
M205/LC White 5.5" flat pad/12lb hand pressure/1-2 inches per second arm speed
Menzerna PO85/LC Black 5.5" flat pad/10lb hand pressure/2-3 inches per second arm speed

(I use Menz PO85 with a Flex PE-14 rotary at 600 rpm...but that's another story)

Test Area
Start with a 24"x24" square (Use blue painters tape)
Use vertical passes overlapping 50% on each pass left to right
Then use horizontal passes overlapping 50% on each pass top to bottom.
Repeat this 4-5 times on each 24"x24" section with each pad/product type.
This is called a "section pass". Go slow and "look and feel" what you are doing.

For paint correction you may to use the same product/pad type multiple times on one section.
Be sure to clean the paint surface with IPA or mineral spirits between each section pass.
This will allow you to "see" your progress and results with each pad/product combo.

My pad suggestion to get you started would be a "six-pack"
2) 5.5" LC flat orange
2) 5.5" LC flat white
1) 5.5" LC flat black
1) 5.5" LC flat blue

 

Thanks for all of the advice folks...much appreciated!!

To answer a few questions:
-I will have pics!! just as soon as the wheels and tires are done...
-I am using the PC7424XP @ 2000rpm, moderate pressure with both Meguiar's #105 & #205...
-I started with Meguiar's pads, the yellow W8006 polishing pad & the W9006 finishing pad expecting to move up to CCS or LC pads when I got the feel for it...

I am pretty happy with the results so far and can't wait to try some of these other products...

 

Waiting for pics...

What is the speed number (1-6) on the PC dial?
DA buffers do Orbits Per Minute (OPM) not RPM.
I'm a big fan of the Lake Country 5.5" flat pads.
Have you looked at the Kevin Brown Method?

ENJOY!

 

This diagram shows the working action the polishing pad makes on a dual-action car polisher.
DA's both orbit (small random circle action) and rotate. I call it a "wax-on-wax-off" with rotation pattern.



There's a little bit of technique involved, but most people can pick it up it in about 5-10 minutes.
The technique is to use overlapping motions and run the polisher over your paint at a nice and slow speed.

Section Pass 24" x 24"



Proper machine polishing is as easy as following this simple pattern. Master this and you're on your way!

Recommended Speed Setting Guide:

STEP 1- Remove Serious Defects – 5 to 5.5 (Cutting - M105)
STEP 2- Remove Swirl and Minor Defects – 4.5 to 5 (Polishing - M205)
STEP 3- Pre Wax Cleaning and Gloss Enhancement – 4 to 4.5 (Finishing -Wet Glaze 2.0/Menz 85rd etc)
STEP 4- Protect your paint finish from harsh environmental elements – 2.5 to 3 (Finessing - Sealant and/or wax)

Note: Not all paint finishes require the entire four-step process. Complete only the steps necessary for the condition or your paint finish.

MACHINE POLISHING HOW-TO TIPS

These are some of the basics.

Always use the least aggressive method first!
Do a test spot! Make sure your process is offering desired results before polishing the entire car.
Use the proper pressure, arm speed, pad, polish and speed combination for your paint’s condition
Keep the pad flat and level on your paint surface at all times. Use overlapping motions (above)
Always start with your least aggressive polish, then step up only if needed
SLOW Down! Don’t run the machine over the paint too fast or it won’t get the job done
Work a small (2’ by 2’) area at a time so you can concentrate on your work
More polish is not better! Use only about 3 to 4 pea size dabs and add more as necessary
Never dry buff! Add polish when you see your polish is thin and starts to go clear
Never buff in direct sun or on a warm or hot surface. Touch the paint. If it's HOT don't polish.
Never use more than one type of polish on your polishing or buffing pad
Keep your pads away from trim and sharp edges
Tape off trim with painter's tape to avoid staining trim and polish build up in cracks and crevices
Never start the machine without it being on the paint. Don't ask me how I know.
Never lift your pad off the paint when the machine is turned on
Keep the cord over your shoulder and away from your paint
Tie a loose knot around where the extension cord meets the polisher cord so it stays plugged in
Make sure your lighting is good so you can see your progress
Apply medium pressure only when removing defects
Check your work often to make sure your process is working


The Kevin Brown Method details the 4 P's - Paint, Product, Pads and Process.

 

good stuff.. Looks like there's a tree growing out of your hood!

 

Amazing finish for being 12 years old.