Kevin Brown Method - Short Version
#1
11-20-2011, 08:21 AM
Kevin Brown Method - Short Version
Using the DA PC7424XP for correction and polishing, with the LC backing plate & LC Orange, White and Black pads. Both MEG 105 & MEG 205 are DA versions.
I understand the majority of theory for using the products as follows:
1) Prime the polishing pads by pressing M105 into the pad w/finger until the entire surface is covered.
2) Apply an "X" or a "circle" pattern of liquid to the pad.
3) Don't spread, just work it in a 4'x4' section, moving DA slowly. Do 2'x2' on a heavily damaged area.
4) Cut is pressure dependent - overlap your work.
5) Lower DA speeds to begin with and higher pressure exerted on pad.
6) For heavy defects high speed is required and can create fine micromarring. Use M205 to remove.
7) The application cycle should be short and consistent in terms of applied pressure and speed
8) Clean pads more often. Change to new pads when "on the fly" cleaning doesn't clean well enough.
9) Final polishing step with M205 w/black or blue pads at lower speeds and very slow movement. Slow speed, slow movement, and firm pressure
While an increase in pressure is necessary, it is not the only factor that should be addressed when using the "Kevin Brown Method". The speed you use depends upon what you are trying to accomplish.
Proper priming of the pad is super important!
This one step will have more positive effect on polishing performance than anything else. A clean pad is equally important.
The pad should be rotating at all times. More speed is a good thing when heavy defect removal is the goal. This does not mean that slow rotation will not work. However- some pads rotate well while others do not. Oftentimes, if there is insufficient removal of defects even with a substantial amount of downward pressure, a swap of the pad to one that is more aggressive or smaller in diameter will work. The guys that are using smaller diameter pads to remove heavy defects are working smart- not hard.
After all of the defects have been satisfactorily removed, final polishing should be accomplished using the softest or mildest pad available.
For final polishing, prime the finishing pad as previously discussed, and let the pad sit for a few minutes. This will allow the buffing liquid some time to permeate the pore structure of the pad. Then, polish at a slow speed setting, making certain that the pad is able to rotate (it does not matter how many rotations there are, the goal is to minimize the chance of "flatspotting the pad". Add small amounts of product as needed.
If some marring persists, super-clean the pad or replace it, re-prime, and then remove as much product as you can. There will still be some fresh and moist buffing liquid attached to the pad. Use a very slow speed setting, use constant pressure, and DO NOT lighten up at the end of the cycle.
I understand the majority of theory for using the products as follows:
1) Prime the polishing pads by pressing M105 into the pad w/finger until the entire surface is covered.
2) Apply an "X" or a "circle" pattern of liquid to the pad.
3) Don't spread, just work it in a 4'x4' section, moving DA slowly. Do 2'x2' on a heavily damaged area.
4) Cut is pressure dependent - overlap your work.
5) Lower DA speeds to begin with and higher pressure exerted on pad.
6) For heavy defects high speed is required and can create fine micromarring. Use M205 to remove.
7) The application cycle should be short and consistent in terms of applied pressure and speed
8) Clean pads more often. Change to new pads when "on the fly" cleaning doesn't clean well enough.
9) Final polishing step with M205 w/black or blue pads at lower speeds and very slow movement. Slow speed, slow movement, and firm pressure
While an increase in pressure is necessary, it is not the only factor that should be addressed when using the "Kevin Brown Method". The speed you use depends upon what you are trying to accomplish.
Proper priming of the pad is super important!
This one step will have more positive effect on polishing performance than anything else. A clean pad is equally important.
The pad should be rotating at all times. More speed is a good thing when heavy defect removal is the goal. This does not mean that slow rotation will not work. However- some pads rotate well while others do not. Oftentimes, if there is insufficient removal of defects even with a substantial amount of downward pressure, a swap of the pad to one that is more aggressive or smaller in diameter will work. The guys that are using smaller diameter pads to remove heavy defects are working smart- not hard.
After all of the defects have been satisfactorily removed, final polishing should be accomplished using the softest or mildest pad available.
For final polishing, prime the finishing pad as previously discussed, and let the pad sit for a few minutes. This will allow the buffing liquid some time to permeate the pore structure of the pad. Then, polish at a slow speed setting, making certain that the pad is able to rotate (it does not matter how many rotations there are, the goal is to minimize the chance of "flatspotting the pad". Add small amounts of product as needed.
If some marring persists, super-clean the pad or replace it, re-prime, and then remove as much product as you can. There will still be some fresh and moist buffing liquid attached to the pad. Use a very slow speed setting, use constant pressure, and DO NOT lighten up at the end of the cycle.
#3
11-20-2011, 02:21 PM
George, I actually do both and it has worked well for me. The 105 is a unique animal; one you can't just squirt on a pad and go to town. Even with priming the pad, it still takes a bit of practice to find out what works for you. One of the most difficult products I've ever used, but once you get it down, the results can be quite impressive.
#4
11-20-2011, 04:26 PM
As far as priming I cover the entire top of the pad with product then press it into the pad with my fingers until the complete pad surface is moist.
This process is similar to using the Megs DA microfiber cutting disc with D300. The entire surface of the MF pad needs to be covered with product.
I've found the new M105 DA version doesn't flash (dry up) as much during use. If it does I lightly mist the paint with water and it brings it back to life.
This process is similar to using the Megs DA microfiber cutting disc with D300. The entire surface of the MF pad needs to be covered with product.
I've found the new M105 DA version doesn't flash (dry up) as much during use. If it does I lightly mist the paint with water and it brings it back to life.