Use the LEAST aggressive product that gets the job done. NEVER assume you will need something like 105 to do a job!

 

When detailing the least aggressive method is the best.

Tape off several 2'x2' areas

Use Megs 205 (Light cut/semi finish polish) and a Lake Country white pad (minimal pad bite).
Do this section. Check results.

If results not met,
Try Megs 205 again and a Lake Country orange pad (more pad bite).
Check again.

If results not met,
Try Megs 105 with a LC white pad.
Repeat process.

if results not met,
Try Megs 105 with a LC orange pad.

if results not met,
Try Megs 105 with a Surbuf pad.

Then use KBM DA Method.

The idea here is to take your time and do a "test spot" and find what works on YOUR paint.
When you have found the correct pad/product combination THEN you can repeat it on your truck.
There's nothing worse than using a pad/product combo on your entire truck and find it did not work.

 

I've already gone over 2 areas with 80 and a Meg's yellow pad and that didn't cut the waterspots or do much for the etching in the bed cap. It looked great until I got the Sun just right and I could still see the spots. I'm not real worried about the etchings but I am the waterspots. They really suck the luster out of the black paint.

I think I'll get a bottle of Ultimate Compound, one of Ultimate Polish and some LC pads and give that a try. I'm sure I need something more aggressive than 80. I'm also pretty sure a quart would dry up before I used it all. Ultimate is available locally if I need more.

So, I'll order the stuff today and plan on a fun weekend.

Rick

 

#80 is a diminishing abrasive product. Lots of folks have issues learning to properly use it.
Megs 205 is a non-diminishing SMAT Easy to use, long working time, leaves a nice glossy finish.
I'd splurge and get the 105/205 product combo. Here's a thread Meguiars #80 vs. 205
A small M105 and M205=$20. It's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

It is important to keep in mind you can not simply and directly compare the aggressiveness of two different products because they are intended to be used in different ways.

A perfect example of this is M86 So1o Cut & Polish Cream. Is it a heavy cutting compound? Well, when used with a wool cutting pad on a rotary buffer at 1800 rpm it can pull out 1200 grit sanding marks. Or is it a finishing polish? Well, when used with a foam finishing pad on a rotary at 1000 rpm it can beautifully refine a finish to a hologram free, deep, wet shine. How M86 is used makes all the difference.

Taking this example one step further, ScratchX 2.0 is listed as being more aggressive than M86, but you would never select ScratchX 2.0 to use on a wool pad at 1800 rpm on a rotary to pull out sanding marks. It is simply not designed for that purpose.

The nature of the abrasives used in a given product (and not all SMAT abrasives are 100% identical, by the way) and the other ingredients used in the "carrier liquid" determine whether a product can even survive being used with an aggressive rotary application, or if they'll be effective at all when used by hand.

 

Well I bought a bottle of Ultimate Compound and one of Polish. I tried the polish first just as a test and it didn't phase the waterspots. I them proceded to polish out most of the truck with compound and a Meg's yellow pad.

The compound really helped but I still see evidence of the spots, and a few cat scratches as well. The KBM water mist process works great !!!!

Since I have a couple of big jobs lined up I'm just going to have to finish compounding today, go over it with the polish and then LSP with NXT today and tomorrow. I just won't have the time after tomorrow to do anything for several months so I need to get what I can done this weekend.

Once I get caught up with work I'll go back with the 105/205 and a better pad to do a proper job the truck deserves.

I am noticing little BB and smaller size pieces of my pad coming off. Is this normal or is my pad toast?

Thanks again for all the info and advice.

Rick

 

Took me 2.5 days to wash, polish glass, de-bug and tar, quick claybar, buff with Meg's Ultimate Compound and one coat of NXT. It got a good deal of the spots off but getting the Sun just right shows they're still there. Looks like some 105 is in my future.

Applying the NXT with the DA and finishing pad was the cat's meow. The wax went on smooth and thin, it was a breeze to wipe off. Last time I did it by hand it was a chore to get it buffed off, went on way too thick by hand.

My luck being my luck it rained on it last night. I took a couple of pics just at sunset but have no idea how to post them here.

Thanks yet again for all the advice.

Rick

 

Some waxes are more difficult (finicky) to remove. (Ultimate Paste wax comes to mind) I have found that if you use a wool pad on the PC Then cover the wool pad with a microfiber bonnet (to remove wax) it leaves a clean, smooth, streak free finish. NOTE: You can reverse the bonnets to assist in this process.