From what I understand Glare Professional Polish actually fills, bonds at a molecular level and becomes your "new" clear coat. That's why I like Glare Professional Polish. The traditional way to remove swirls and defects is to polish down the clear coat (removing clear coat) to level out the paint. I believe Glare Pro Polish adds to the CC.

"GLARE PROFESSIONAL POLISH will bond to your vehicle’s paint through a covalent chemical bond which is not possible with any other product currently available in the world’s market. The chemical reaction that occurs between GLARE and the paint literally transforms the chemical structure of the vehicle’s paint and now shares the properties of both the original paint and glass. Micro scratches, swirls, and oxidation are all removed permanently. The end result is a newly created type of paint/glass hybrid “SUPER PAINT” that is harder and more resilient then before."

Although they state: "Never apply carnauba wax, or polymer synthetic wax, on top of your final GLARE coat as this will adversely affect the chemical bonding process with the paint and will cause the shine to go down."

I have applied other products after letting Glare Pro Polish "cure" for at least 24 hours without any adverse effects.

Detailing terms for compound, polish, sealant etc. are not industry consistent.

One school of thought when using Glare Pro Polish is...
You need to polish your paint (compound) before using Glare Pro.
In some cases this is using a DA with M105/M205/Menz PO85 type combo
Reason: Remove all the swirls and fine scratches before applying Glare Pro

Another school of thought when using Glare Pro Polish is...
Let the Glare Pro product completely fill the swirls and they will stay gone.
IMHO This really depends on the amount of the paint correction needed.

My thoughts...
I would DA polish the paint first then apply Glare Pro

Glare is a unique product:
Your first application (on clean paint) is applied like a compound.

First:
Glare Polish is rubbed into the paint like a compound until it completely disappears.
This causes Glare Pro to bond to the vehicles paint through a covalent chemical bond
This also IMHO permanently fills and hides imperfections in the paint (swirls etc.)
Repeat if needed.

Second:
Glare Polish is applied like you would a wax or sealant.
Let haze (to the swipe test) and lightly buff to remove.
Remove with a high quality MF towel or 100% USA cotton.

This is the process they recommend when using their product.
I have used this process and have had excellent results.

Although Glare is very good, it is not IMHO the deepest looking LSP on the market.
For protection, durability, longevity, filling/hiding scratches and swirls it truly excels.

I have corrected "spots" and then used a different LSP product to seal the entire truck.
I have used Glare as a "spot" correction product to permanently fill and hide scratches.
I have done complete dawn washes and all the "spots" corrected with Glare are still gone.
I have been using Glare Pro for many years and it has a special place in my detailing arsenal.



Here are some pics that may describe the difference in traditional paint polishing and using Glare Professional Polish.



The traditional way to polish out swirls and scratches is by using a buffing/polishing machine to reduce the clear coat.



From what I understand Glare Pro Polish bonds to your clear coat, fills in your scratches and builds a thicker CC.



I would rather use a products that adds to your CC rather than buffing you clear coat away to remove scratches.

 

Thank you Merlin for taking the time and going to all the trouble for starting this
thread. It should have been a no-brainer for me when you mentioned you'd been
using the Glare Pro Polish for years. Again, thank you.

 

Just ordered a bottle, they've also got some other products I've got an eye on.

 

The absolute best ($ for $) IMHO is "Satin Cream" (for dark colors), it is made by BAF & distributed through Pro Car Care products. It is very easy to work with either by hand, orbital or buffer. It has the same acrylic hardener as the high dollar paint sealants but it has 30% German imported carnauba....no, your arm will not fall off putting it on or taking it off & it has a very mild polish in it as well. Even parking the vehicle outside, the MFG gives a 6 months warranty before another application is required. I use this personally on my toys & daily drivers (which include a 1997 black Cougar sport) and all I can tell you are not even bugs like to stick to the paint- most of the time when water is applied they just float off- bird poop is just as easy. No smeary look either- very clean clear deep look. On my toys, I give them a fresh coat about every 2 years (literally, even for a show), my daily drivers (I have one that sits outside), I apply to the entire vehicle every 6 months, and do the hood, roof and trunk every 3 months (probably overkill, but I know it is well protected from the elements including industrial fallout)
BAF Industries 1910 S. Yale Street Santa Ana, CA 92704 800-437-9893

An excellent alternate product is 3M Perfect It Show Car Liquid Wax- a silicone wax/polish but excellent results as well, just maybe about 90% of the quality of the satin cream.

For specific swirl mark issues I use BAF/Pro Car Care Beauty Products P21 Swirl Eliminator & Polish- although for 30 years I used 3M products specifically, recently I have no been as pleased with the quality of their products. I typically do not like "combination" type products but P21 is very, very impressive & effective from end result, ease of use & overall effectiveness.