best steps to perfect paint?
#31
01-19-2012, 11:05 AM
How about starting from the beginning. Where do the swirls come from? A lot of folks will say from washing or from car washes.
First, I don't think you'll find any car washes with swirling brushes that spin flat at 360 degrees...at least anymore. Almost every car wash has the brushes that spin 360 degrees upright from bumper to bumper. As you can point out, the vehicle has swirls not pin-stripes.
Second, most people do not wash their car by hand swirling their sponge, cloth or wool mit in a tight circular motion. My second guess is, that they do not dry that way as well. So my last guess is, you can eliminate washing and drying as the culprit for those aggravating swirls.
What's the next thing that goes in a circular motion (do not include buffers) over the surface of your car and might have a very fine to heavy abrasive in it....enough to cut the surface and requires lots of Show Glaze to hide the swirl damage?
I've often asked custom paint shops why they would wet sand a paint job to perfection then come right behind it and use polishing compounds, waxes and then be forced to apply show glazes later to hide the swirl marks. I've always been told, that's the way it is done. What is the one thing you find most folks doing at an sunny outdoor car show? Running around show glazing the paint to cover their swirl marks before judging. Check it out for yourself.
If you would like to see something different check out this post at: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...blah-blah-blah the photos are off the hook and the owner never show glazes before or during the show whether it is indoors or outside.
First, I don't think you'll find any car washes with swirling brushes that spin flat at 360 degrees...at least anymore. Almost every car wash has the brushes that spin 360 degrees upright from bumper to bumper. As you can point out, the vehicle has swirls not pin-stripes.
Second, most people do not wash their car by hand swirling their sponge, cloth or wool mit in a tight circular motion. My second guess is, that they do not dry that way as well. So my last guess is, you can eliminate washing and drying as the culprit for those aggravating swirls.
What's the next thing that goes in a circular motion (do not include buffers) over the surface of your car and might have a very fine to heavy abrasive in it....enough to cut the surface and requires lots of Show Glaze to hide the swirl damage?
I've often asked custom paint shops why they would wet sand a paint job to perfection then come right behind it and use polishing compounds, waxes and then be forced to apply show glazes later to hide the swirl marks. I've always been told, that's the way it is done. What is the one thing you find most folks doing at an sunny outdoor car show? Running around show glazing the paint to cover their swirl marks before judging. Check it out for yourself.
If you would like to see something different check out this post at: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...blah-blah-blah the photos are off the hook and the owner never show glazes before or during the show whether it is indoors or outside.
#32
01-19-2012, 11:43 AM
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Gipraw, gave some very excellent and solid advice, he is one of the guys I watched and learned from when I first jumped into detailing here and I continue to learn from him and others over at The Detailer's Cafe.
It's generally best to start at the least aggressive and work your way up doing a 2x2 test spot for each pad/product combo. I was trying not to get brand specific but there is no way around it I guess.
The black car I posted pictures of, I started off with my Makita rotory using PoorBoys SSR2 on a mild cutting pad and stepped down from abrasive polish to using Pro polish and I didn't get the results I wanted so I changed to a heavy cut pad with the same polishes stepping down again which gave me better results but not good enough. So I brought out the most aggressive polish I own which is SSR3 on a mild cutting pad and that finally started to knock out the big defects, next I stepped down to SSR2 on a light cutting pad to remove any hazing induced by the SSR3, so next up was the SSR1 on a polishing pad to further refine the paint. The next step after that was the final polish which was Pro Polish using a polishing pad to jewel/burnish the paint.
And as mentioned before your washing technique and habits have quite a bit to do with how your paint is going to look. You can detail until your arms fall off but if you don't change the way you go about washing your vehicle it's almost pointless to detail the vehicle.
It's generally best to start at the least aggressive and work your way up doing a 2x2 test spot for each pad/product combo. I was trying not to get brand specific but there is no way around it I guess.
The black car I posted pictures of, I started off with my Makita rotory using PoorBoys SSR2 on a mild cutting pad and stepped down from abrasive polish to using Pro polish and I didn't get the results I wanted so I changed to a heavy cut pad with the same polishes stepping down again which gave me better results but not good enough. So I brought out the most aggressive polish I own which is SSR3 on a mild cutting pad and that finally started to knock out the big defects, next I stepped down to SSR2 on a light cutting pad to remove any hazing induced by the SSR3, so next up was the SSR1 on a polishing pad to further refine the paint. The next step after that was the final polish which was Pro Polish using a polishing pad to jewel/burnish the paint.
And as mentioned before your washing technique and habits have quite a bit to do with how your paint is going to look. You can detail until your arms fall off but if you don't change the way you go about washing your vehicle it's almost pointless to detail the vehicle.
#34
01-21-2012, 02:19 PM
