New life for our trucks!!!
#1
10-12-2001, 01:07 PM
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Knoxville, TN
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New life for our trucks!!!
Most anybody who would take the time to read around in this site cares alot about their truck and wants it to look the best it can. I've been a fanatic about car care all my life and have tried everything out there. So, whether you want to freshen up your 98-99 or keep your supercrew looking cherry, here are a few pearls I've gathered in my own experience.
#1 Find a good detail shop
These are the guys who get you screwed at a used car lot because they can take a half rusted AMC Pacer that some woman used to haul goats in and make it look like a million bucks. They can erase things you can't even imagine. If you've tried one, then you know what I'm talking about and can skip to #2. If you've not, read on. A good detail shop can take out almost any paint imperfection that you can't snag a fingernail in using a buffer. The better ones offer "color sanding" to take out deeper scratches, but most charge extra. They also degrease and dress your engine compartment, fenderwells, and suspension to just like new condition, only shinier. In the interior, they clean your upholstery, carpet, headliner, seat belts, ash trays, a/c vents, stereo *****, those little grooves in your shift and tilt handles... you get the point. If your carpet is faded or stained beyond cleanability (don't know what that would take) they can dye your carpet to look brand new. BTW, you can do all these things yourself (which I've done in the past), but it takes a lot of time and money and you can really screw your vehicle up if you don't know what you're doing. You can get a complete restoration done in most places for around $200 on the high side, and you should only need it done every couple or three years. Well worth the money.
#2 Use what the detial shops use
Other than buffing and color sanding, which require machines and compounds, detail shops use essentially three things:
Degreasers/cleaners: for engine compartments, fenderwells, shampooing carpets, etc.
Dressings and conditioners: Shiny/ protective stuff for rubber, vinyl and leather.
Paint sealants: Waxes, acrylics, polymers, etc.
I use professional stuff for everything but viny and leather conditioning. The solvents and cleaners they use are a little harsh. If my dash is really dusty, I clean it with a rag dampened with warm water and very dilute baby shampoo or Murphy's oil soap. Aside from that I use three products all made by Lexol: The leather cleaner, the leather conditioner, and a product they make called Vinylex for the dash, console, weatherstripping, etc. It's better than ArmorAll, better than Tanners Preserve, better than Meguires Gold Class, better than any of the multitude of other products I've tried. At near $30 to get all three bottles, it's expensive, but well worth it.
Here's a link: http://www.lexol.com/newauto.html
Get your cleaners, degreasers, and dressings from these guys:
http://www.carbrite.com/
They make great stuff. The web site has all their products and a very useful section on the how to of reconditioning (good reading)listed here:
http://www.carbrite.com/profess.asp
There are a few products I would recommend.
CleanAll: http://www.carbrite.com/e002.htm
CleanAll is a concentrated cleaner I use for a lot of stuff. Diluted 1:5 it melts dirt from your engine and fenderwells/suspension. I used it diluted 1:8 once to to get a gob of dirty wheel bearing grease out of the red carpet in my old truck. 1:12 of 15 works well for general interior cleaning and spot removal.
Brite Shine: http://www.carbrite.com/c003t.htm
Purple Dressing: http://www.carbrite.com/newsc008F.htm2
Like New: http://www.carbrite.com/e002.htm
These are dressings you can use on your fenderwells and engine after you degrease them, and also to dress your tires. The only one of these I have used personally is brite shine. It is solvent based and very shiny and durable. You have to watch it on your tires because if you don't let it dry fully, it will sling on you paint and smudge it up. I listed the purple dressing because it is a new product designed to dry faster and help with this. The best thing is to wipe away the excess after is soaks for a while. Carbrite recommends using a water based dressing on your engine to eliminate the possibility of fire (Like New). However, I used brite shine prior to reading that and I'm still non-crispy.
Sealants.
I'm not a big critic as far as waxes go. There are too many out there to say for sure which is best. I've heard a lot about zaino, but I don't have time to apply 3 or 4 coats of the 2 or three products they recommend. I'm sure it's good stuff, just too time intensive and costly for my taste. I'm also not a big fan of clay bars. I have one from meguires I used to remove some overspay on an explorer, which is what they were designed to do. They don't do anything to remove light scratches (the main issue on late model trucks) and will infact create them if you get dust between the bar and the paint. So, unless you have some overspray left over from some body work or maybe a problem with tree sap, I wouldn't recommend the clay. I'm a fan of a 1 shot polish/sealant. The best product I have used personally is called Wizard's Shine Master. (http://www.wizardsproducts.com/products2.html)
It takes care of light scratches and swirl marks very well and leaves my paint slicker than anything I've used. It's a sealant, but not a wax, and it seems to last longer. Another product called Race Glaze is supposed to be identical and a lot of my painter buddies swear by this stuff (http://www.mr-shine.com/raceglaze/raceglaze_polish.htm). If I want extra, extra depth, I'll use 3m Perfect-It hand glaze. If your car has or develops problems that you can't resolve by these means, then see #1.
I hope this info is helpful for anybody who babies their truck as much as I do.
#1 Find a good detail shop
These are the guys who get you screwed at a used car lot because they can take a half rusted AMC Pacer that some woman used to haul goats in and make it look like a million bucks. They can erase things you can't even imagine. If you've tried one, then you know what I'm talking about and can skip to #2. If you've not, read on. A good detail shop can take out almost any paint imperfection that you can't snag a fingernail in using a buffer. The better ones offer "color sanding" to take out deeper scratches, but most charge extra. They also degrease and dress your engine compartment, fenderwells, and suspension to just like new condition, only shinier. In the interior, they clean your upholstery, carpet, headliner, seat belts, ash trays, a/c vents, stereo *****, those little grooves in your shift and tilt handles... you get the point. If your carpet is faded or stained beyond cleanability (don't know what that would take) they can dye your carpet to look brand new. BTW, you can do all these things yourself (which I've done in the past), but it takes a lot of time and money and you can really screw your vehicle up if you don't know what you're doing. You can get a complete restoration done in most places for around $200 on the high side, and you should only need it done every couple or three years. Well worth the money.
#2 Use what the detial shops use
Other than buffing and color sanding, which require machines and compounds, detail shops use essentially three things:
Degreasers/cleaners: for engine compartments, fenderwells, shampooing carpets, etc.
Dressings and conditioners: Shiny/ protective stuff for rubber, vinyl and leather.
Paint sealants: Waxes, acrylics, polymers, etc.
I use professional stuff for everything but viny and leather conditioning. The solvents and cleaners they use are a little harsh. If my dash is really dusty, I clean it with a rag dampened with warm water and very dilute baby shampoo or Murphy's oil soap. Aside from that I use three products all made by Lexol: The leather cleaner, the leather conditioner, and a product they make called Vinylex for the dash, console, weatherstripping, etc. It's better than ArmorAll, better than Tanners Preserve, better than Meguires Gold Class, better than any of the multitude of other products I've tried. At near $30 to get all three bottles, it's expensive, but well worth it.
Here's a link: http://www.lexol.com/newauto.html
Get your cleaners, degreasers, and dressings from these guys:
http://www.carbrite.com/
They make great stuff. The web site has all their products and a very useful section on the how to of reconditioning (good reading)listed here:
http://www.carbrite.com/profess.asp
There are a few products I would recommend.
CleanAll: http://www.carbrite.com/e002.htm
CleanAll is a concentrated cleaner I use for a lot of stuff. Diluted 1:5 it melts dirt from your engine and fenderwells/suspension. I used it diluted 1:8 once to to get a gob of dirty wheel bearing grease out of the red carpet in my old truck. 1:12 of 15 works well for general interior cleaning and spot removal.
Brite Shine: http://www.carbrite.com/c003t.htm
Purple Dressing: http://www.carbrite.com/newsc008F.htm2
Like New: http://www.carbrite.com/e002.htm
These are dressings you can use on your fenderwells and engine after you degrease them, and also to dress your tires. The only one of these I have used personally is brite shine. It is solvent based and very shiny and durable. You have to watch it on your tires because if you don't let it dry fully, it will sling on you paint and smudge it up. I listed the purple dressing because it is a new product designed to dry faster and help with this. The best thing is to wipe away the excess after is soaks for a while. Carbrite recommends using a water based dressing on your engine to eliminate the possibility of fire (Like New). However, I used brite shine prior to reading that and I'm still non-crispy.
Sealants.
I'm not a big critic as far as waxes go. There are too many out there to say for sure which is best. I've heard a lot about zaino, but I don't have time to apply 3 or 4 coats of the 2 or three products they recommend. I'm sure it's good stuff, just too time intensive and costly for my taste. I'm also not a big fan of clay bars. I have one from meguires I used to remove some overspay on an explorer, which is what they were designed to do. They don't do anything to remove light scratches (the main issue on late model trucks) and will infact create them if you get dust between the bar and the paint. So, unless you have some overspray left over from some body work or maybe a problem with tree sap, I wouldn't recommend the clay. I'm a fan of a 1 shot polish/sealant. The best product I have used personally is called Wizard's Shine Master. (http://www.wizardsproducts.com/products2.html)
It takes care of light scratches and swirl marks very well and leaves my paint slicker than anything I've used. It's a sealant, but not a wax, and it seems to last longer. Another product called Race Glaze is supposed to be identical and a lot of my painter buddies swear by this stuff (http://www.mr-shine.com/raceglaze/raceglaze_polish.htm). If I want extra, extra depth, I'll use 3m Perfect-It hand glaze. If your car has or develops problems that you can't resolve by these means, then see #1.
I hope this info is helpful for anybody who babies their truck as much as I do.
Last edited by cast1; 10-12-2001 at 11:20 PM.
#2
10-12-2001, 02:55 PM
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Location: Cincinnati
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Many compnies make good products, but
Just like a Doctor, an Attorney, a good mechanic will do , one must have some knowledge to diagnois certain conditions before attempting to correct whatever they may be.
To that I add this site, and suggest the checking of three areas of the site, some information by the way, is from the Ford QC Dealer only site they have.
Check Tech Tips and go through all the areas, photos, text etc.
Then, OEM/TSB's section, this is where the Ford and other manufacturers info is located.
Third, the Magazine Article Section, which contains articles that were published in various professional trade journals, not your enthusists, "let's help the advestisers sell some product" junk.
Then, if you got the time, check out the Find a Detailer area, where the Trusted Professional Detailers reside.
This area is growing quickly, as detailers who wish to grow in technical abilities, quality workmanship are listed. Some from other parts of the world.
Site is www.autoint.com
Ketch
To that I add this site, and suggest the checking of three areas of the site, some information by the way, is from the Ford QC Dealer only site they have.
Check Tech Tips and go through all the areas, photos, text etc.
Then, OEM/TSB's section, this is where the Ford and other manufacturers info is located.
Third, the Magazine Article Section, which contains articles that were published in various professional trade journals, not your enthusists, "let's help the advestisers sell some product" junk.
Then, if you got the time, check out the Find a Detailer area, where the Trusted Professional Detailers reside.
This area is growing quickly, as detailers who wish to grow in technical abilities, quality workmanship are listed. Some from other parts of the world.
Site is www.autoint.com
Ketch
#3
10-12-2001, 03:06 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Houston, by way of every major city in America.
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Lots of good info there! I know what you mean about the Pacer statement. I took a 78 Mercedes with completely chalked out paint and a filthy interior to a car that would pass inspection by nearly any picky owner. When the owner came to pick it up(came in for flood damage) she walked through the roll up door and nearly cried, lol. She tipped me $20, and left grinning from ear to ear.
A few good products, and a lot of elbow grease can really transform an ugly vehicle to something you can be proud of. I cringe when I see a late model F-150 with black front wheels, lol.,,,,,98
A few good products, and a lot of elbow grease can really transform an ugly vehicle to something you can be proud of. I cringe when I see a late model F-150 with black front wheels, lol.,,,,,98
#4
10-12-2001, 04:24 PM
Join Date: Oct 2001
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mind clarifying?
Ketch2,
Maybe I'm mistaken, and forgive me if I am, but are you referring to me in your comment about the "enthusist" in your post?
If so, let me first say that I am not a professional, as far as detailing goes. I am a medical student, so I do have some appreciation for you comment about having some knowledge before you open your mouth, uh, I mean, make a diagnosis. I would never be so bold as to say I know it all, but I know a little.
Second, I thumbed through some of the content in the link you provided and most of what I saw related to clearcoat failures like cracking, delamination, or to incorrect finish application techniques. These problems are primary defects in the finishing process, correct me if I'm wrong, and would be repaired in a body shop, not a detail shop, no? If I was not clear before, understand that I was refering to normal wear and tear that occurs with use and washing of a vehicle.
Third, I'm not trying to sell any anything for anybody. I paid my way through undergrad as a window tinter for a large shop that also did custom paint work and, you guessed it, detailing. I was lucky enough to have exposure to lots of detailing tools and techniques. The products I listed are a few that I have come to find by trial and error, and that I feel work well for me. I enjoy taking care of my vehicles and made this post to try to help anyone else who might feel the same. I know there are hundreds of other great products out there, these are just a few that I've had experience with.
Lastly, I did a search of all the posts that Ketch2 had made and found 8. In five of those, you mentioned the same link you posted in this response. Oddly enough, the link is to a site for a company that manufactures and distributes detailing supplies, located in Cincinatti, the same location listed under your name on your posts. Who is it again that is trying to "help the advertisers sell some product"? Just a question....
Maybe I'm mistaken, and forgive me if I am, but are you referring to me in your comment about the "enthusist" in your post?
If so, let me first say that I am not a professional, as far as detailing goes. I am a medical student, so I do have some appreciation for you comment about having some knowledge before you open your mouth, uh, I mean, make a diagnosis. I would never be so bold as to say I know it all, but I know a little.
Second, I thumbed through some of the content in the link you provided and most of what I saw related to clearcoat failures like cracking, delamination, or to incorrect finish application techniques. These problems are primary defects in the finishing process, correct me if I'm wrong, and would be repaired in a body shop, not a detail shop, no? If I was not clear before, understand that I was refering to normal wear and tear that occurs with use and washing of a vehicle.
Third, I'm not trying to sell any anything for anybody. I paid my way through undergrad as a window tinter for a large shop that also did custom paint work and, you guessed it, detailing. I was lucky enough to have exposure to lots of detailing tools and techniques. The products I listed are a few that I have come to find by trial and error, and that I feel work well for me. I enjoy taking care of my vehicles and made this post to try to help anyone else who might feel the same. I know there are hundreds of other great products out there, these are just a few that I've had experience with.
Lastly, I did a search of all the posts that Ketch2 had made and found 8. In five of those, you mentioned the same link you posted in this response. Oddly enough, the link is to a site for a company that manufactures and distributes detailing supplies, located in Cincinatti, the same location listed under your name on your posts. Who is it again that is trying to "help the advertisers sell some product"? Just a question....
Last edited by cast1; 10-12-2001 at 11:15 PM.