Hi CS,

No problem - polishing the throttle body won't change your truck's tuning needs, and neither will porting it's "elbow."

We do recommend setting the TPS (throttle position sensor) voltage when you reinstall it - set it at 0.98-0.99 (that's with the ignition on, but the engine not running) for best throttle response, etc. If you don't know how to do that, just use the Search feature here to search for posts on that topic, as it's been discussed many times and is easily done with a scan tool or voltmeter, etc.

Good luck!

 

uh-oh I didn't do that, but I will do the search and figure out how...thanks Mike

 

i dont know about you chevy sniper but mine was tps was off as soon as i seen this tread i did a search and whent outside to set it mine was setting about 1.006when i started now .984 thanks mike man i would not know what would i do without f150 online sometimes hey mike or any body else dose tps work with the cumputer and the transmision maybe its just me but my truck seem to shift faster 72 mustang thanks

 

72...Dang, mine is 1.06...I need to adjust it, but I can't get the freakin screws out. Those babies are tight.

What is that **** that looks to be a cap of sorts, can I take that off to get at it better?

 

hey chevy sniper man i dont know what to tell you i tried a screw driver that was bent 90 on each end and that realy did not get in there i know that bottom screw is pain in the a$$ it look like the only other way was to unscrew the tb elbow wish i was more help72 mustang

 

Well, I took off the *thing* that''s in the way, but unless your Arnold Schwar....I'm not even trying to spell it......the Hulk I can't turn those screws. I can't believe they're on there that tight...I figure something out.

 

Ok now I'm in a world of hurt..

I got the tps off. It has a little flat head piece sticking out of the tb and the plastic piece has a spring-loaded twister thing that receives the flat head part. My digital camera has dead batteries or I would take a picture and show you guys...damn batteries. Anyways, I can't wind it up enough to get it even close to .99. The furthest I can wind it the volts are about 1.16.

Please help somebody, anybody....My 9100 is on it's way and I'm SOL!

 

let me try this...

https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=4512

and this

https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=4512

I hope that works..

 

hey chevy sniper im sure your checking it right whith the middle grey wire with white stripe with postive lead and the negative lead on grey with red stripe bottom wire the only reason i ask is when i frist check it i had the postive lead on the top wire and it read 4.0 something andi know something was not right mine was very senstive just alittle movement would make the reading jump all over i dont know if this will help hope it does 72

 

hey chevy sniper man you didnt need to take it off just loosen the screws to adjust it move it clockwise to raise the voltage turn counter clockwise to lower hope this helps 72

 

I don't think you have the same style or something...It wouldn't turn. And even if it would turn the holes wouldn't line back up and I can't drill them out because they're medal. I don't know what in the world to do.

 

Well, it's official....I jacked up my truck! I put it back together and I got a .8 reading. It wouldn't even read on the setting I had to 1.16, so since it was last night I figured I just had the multimeter on a different setting..nope..I'm gettng 0.00 on the setting I had it on last night.

I don't know what the heck I've done or how to fix it. I'm going to rip it apart again and see what happens. Right now it will start, drive, but it's defintely NOT right. When you get on it it just stumbles. It also acts like it doesn't know what gear to go into, oh yeah, and lets not forget, the SES (service engine soon) light is on.

STUPID, STUPID, STUPID!!!

 

ok...now I'm back in business. Thank God!

I ended up breaking my sensor so I had to go get a new one. $72.39 later I'm good to go. My new stock one from the Ford dealer was set at 1.24 v. I still had to do some adjusting I just didn't mess with the inside this time. I drilled out the little metal sleeves and filed out the holes to make adjustments. This job was one of the hardest things I've done, definetely the most frustrating. Now that I've done it it would be a piece of cake, but not knowing what I was doing the first time was giving me gray hair at 27 years old.

Thanks to Phil (openclasspro) and Mike Troyer, they worked me through this..I owe you guys a dinner or something..

 

anytime there sniper

 

Hi CS,

Sorry to hear you had to replace the TPS!

All that needs to be done for most of them is to loosen the screw(s) so you can rotate the TPS to adjust the voltage. Now in some of them, you have to file a bit of a notch or enlarge the hole a little bit to give you some effective "adjustment range." There is no adjustment range built into the stock throttle body's TPS from the factory in most cases.

Anything over .999 volts & the PCM thinks you're at part-throttle instead of idling (and sometimes anything over 0.990 gives part-throttle). The best performance & driveability are had with a setting of 0.990-0.999 v, but anything from 0.960-0.999 is acceptable, and usually better than stock. A lot of them are like 0.82 or 0.84 from the factory, instead of the over 1.0 v you & a few others have found lately.

Glad you got it taken care of!