95 F-150
#3
06-22-2001, 01:37 PM
Former Sponsor
Hi Pullhard,
Welcome to F-150 Online!
Your computer is mounted (in just about all 1996 & earlier F-150's) behind the Driver's kick panel. There are a couple of ways to get to it, you can either go thru the kick panel, or you can remove the computer from under the hood. Doing it from under the hood is faster, but involves removing the bottom 4-5 screws that retain the plastic inner fender liner, so you can move it out of the way, in order to slide the ECU out of the firewall.
Your first step is to disconnect the battery. Next step is to disconnect the wiring harness from the front of the computer. On the 1996 & earlier F-150's, this wiring harness is under the hood on the driver's side, down low, beneath the brake master cylinder. There will be a single 10mm bolt head dead-center of this wiring harness. Loosen that 10mm bolt, and as you do, the harness will slowly back off from the computer, until you can finally detach it completely. By the way, you'll need to know that the 10mm bolt will remain an integral part of that harness, you won't be removing that bolt from the harness, just loosening it quite a bit, ok?
Once you have that done, then you can slide the computer stright out of the firewall, straight towards the front of the truck. Again, you will have to pry the inner fender out of the way a bit, remove the bottom 4 or 5 screws that retain that inner fender, then take a 2X4 or something to pry against that liner, so you can gain the clearance to slide the ECU (computer) all the way out of the firewall.
If you are installing a performance chip, it should have all of those instructions. If not, talk to whoever you purchased it from, they should provide you with all of that information if you just purchased it new. If you bought it used from someone, then maybe they can help you with it.
Once you have the computer out, you will need to properly & thoroughly clean the male edge connector on the back of the computer before attaching the chip. There is usually an obvious dab of lithium grease, we use dry Q-tips to wipe that off, and then you need to scrape off the clear conformal coating from the contacts on that connector. We use a tiny straight-blade screwdriver for this, like from a jewelers or eyeglass screwdriver kit, taking the leading edge of the blade (not the point or the corner) to "shave" or "scrape" this conformal coating off of those contacts. Scrape *lightly* but thoroughly, you don't have to scrape HARD, just use light to medium pressure. If you start to see shiny or metallic flakes, STOP, you've gone far enough, any further and you'll go into the copper.
If you have a problem with the vehicle not starting, it's usually connection-related and you most likely don't have the contacts properly cleaned. It can be tricky, as this coating you have to remove is basically clear in color. Using a magnifying glass and strong light will allow you to see it better.
Of course, all of this is predicated on this being a chip that attached to the J3 male edge connector on the back of the Ford computer, and was made for your specific vehicle, meaning, if it's a Superchip, it has to have the exact same computer code as your vehicle, or it won't work. Most others are generic, and so it won't matter, just the year, engine & transmission matters in generic chips.
Good luck!
------------------
Mike Troyer
Performance Products, Inc.
National Distributor of Superchips
(540) 862-9515
Email: mtroyer@compuserve.com
Performance Products F150Online Superchip ordering system: F150Online Superchip Ordering System
National F-150 Online Rally Event Organizer
Welcome to F-150 Online!
Your computer is mounted (in just about all 1996 & earlier F-150's) behind the Driver's kick panel. There are a couple of ways to get to it, you can either go thru the kick panel, or you can remove the computer from under the hood. Doing it from under the hood is faster, but involves removing the bottom 4-5 screws that retain the plastic inner fender liner, so you can move it out of the way, in order to slide the ECU out of the firewall.
Your first step is to disconnect the battery. Next step is to disconnect the wiring harness from the front of the computer. On the 1996 & earlier F-150's, this wiring harness is under the hood on the driver's side, down low, beneath the brake master cylinder. There will be a single 10mm bolt head dead-center of this wiring harness. Loosen that 10mm bolt, and as you do, the harness will slowly back off from the computer, until you can finally detach it completely. By the way, you'll need to know that the 10mm bolt will remain an integral part of that harness, you won't be removing that bolt from the harness, just loosening it quite a bit, ok?
Once you have that done, then you can slide the computer stright out of the firewall, straight towards the front of the truck. Again, you will have to pry the inner fender out of the way a bit, remove the bottom 4 or 5 screws that retain that inner fender, then take a 2X4 or something to pry against that liner, so you can gain the clearance to slide the ECU (computer) all the way out of the firewall.
If you are installing a performance chip, it should have all of those instructions. If not, talk to whoever you purchased it from, they should provide you with all of that information if you just purchased it new. If you bought it used from someone, then maybe they can help you with it.
Once you have the computer out, you will need to properly & thoroughly clean the male edge connector on the back of the computer before attaching the chip. There is usually an obvious dab of lithium grease, we use dry Q-tips to wipe that off, and then you need to scrape off the clear conformal coating from the contacts on that connector. We use a tiny straight-blade screwdriver for this, like from a jewelers or eyeglass screwdriver kit, taking the leading edge of the blade (not the point or the corner) to "shave" or "scrape" this conformal coating off of those contacts. Scrape *lightly* but thoroughly, you don't have to scrape HARD, just use light to medium pressure. If you start to see shiny or metallic flakes, STOP, you've gone far enough, any further and you'll go into the copper.
If you have a problem with the vehicle not starting, it's usually connection-related and you most likely don't have the contacts properly cleaned. It can be tricky, as this coating you have to remove is basically clear in color. Using a magnifying glass and strong light will allow you to see it better.
Of course, all of this is predicated on this being a chip that attached to the J3 male edge connector on the back of the Ford computer, and was made for your specific vehicle, meaning, if it's a Superchip, it has to have the exact same computer code as your vehicle, or it won't work. Most others are generic, and so it won't matter, just the year, engine & transmission matters in generic chips.
Good luck!
------------------
Mike Troyer
Performance Products, Inc.
National Distributor of Superchips
(540) 862-9515
Email: mtroyer@compuserve.com
Performance Products F150Online Superchip ordering system: F150Online Superchip Ordering System
National F-150 Online Rally Event Organizer
#4
06-22-2001, 03:04 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Windsor, ON, Canada
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Pullhard & Primetime - you guys will love the chip. 
Neal and I went at it and it took about 2 hours. The inner fender well was the biggest pain in the neck for the install. I have had mine installed since March 17th of this year and it makes a awesome difference. Mind you, my truck weighs in at 5000 lbs and is 20ft long so every little bit helps. Stick with Mike T., he won't steer you wrong !!
Have Fun & Keep on Truckin'
Dean
------------------
1994 F-150 XLT Supercab, Long Box, 302 EFI, 3.55 LS, Superchip, K&N FIPK, Bosch Platinum +4 Spark Plugs, Automatic, Single Catalytic converter, followed by a Raven Z-55 muffler and finished off with chrome tips (2 1/2" to 3"), Royal Blue in and out, Captain Chairs. Chrome Rims 15x8's, BFGoodrich Radial T/A's 107S 275/60R15 (Summer), OEM Aluminum Rims 15x8's, Michelin LTX M/S 108S (Winter), Lightly Tinted, Soft Tonneau Cover, Ford Receiver Hitch Cover & Lock, J&J Enterprises Stainless Steel AirDam with KC driving lights, Lund Supersteps, Lighted Grab Bars, VTech Slotted Taillight Covers, Alpine CDM-7829 Head Unit, PPI 4800 Amplifier, Kicker 10" Solo Baric Sub with Custom Box and Kicker Impulse 6.5 Mid & Tweets.
Neal and I went at it and it took about 2 hours. The inner fender well was the biggest pain in the neck for the install. I have had mine installed since March 17th of this year and it makes a awesome difference. Mind you, my truck weighs in at 5000 lbs and is 20ft long so every little bit helps. Stick with Mike T., he won't steer you wrong !!Have Fun & Keep on Truckin'
Dean
------------------
1994 F-150 XLT Supercab, Long Box, 302 EFI, 3.55 LS, Superchip, K&N FIPK, Bosch Platinum +4 Spark Plugs, Automatic, Single Catalytic converter, followed by a Raven Z-55 muffler and finished off with chrome tips (2 1/2" to 3"), Royal Blue in and out, Captain Chairs. Chrome Rims 15x8's, BFGoodrich Radial T/A's 107S 275/60R15 (Summer), OEM Aluminum Rims 15x8's, Michelin LTX M/S 108S (Winter), Lightly Tinted, Soft Tonneau Cover, Ford Receiver Hitch Cover & Lock, J&J Enterprises Stainless Steel AirDam with KC driving lights, Lund Supersteps, Lighted Grab Bars, VTech Slotted Taillight Covers, Alpine CDM-7829 Head Unit, PPI 4800 Amplifier, Kicker 10" Solo Baric Sub with Custom Box and Kicker Impulse 6.5 Mid & Tweets.
#5
06-22-2001, 05:25 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Great Falls, MT
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Thanks for the info! I love detailed info like that - makes things easy. Mike, I spoke with you about a year ago about the Superchip and have been very indecisive about it, basically due to fears about the price of premium. I'm beginning to really lean toward doing it now that I have purchased an overhead camper that is really too big for a 1/2 ton pickup. I won't be able to afford a new truck for some time, so this may be an option to get a little more juice out of the 302. I'm also going to be putting air bag overloads on it as well so that I can rig my truck up for hauling the camper better. I'll be in touch with my computer code soon so that we can get the ball rolling. I'll email you with the details soon as I do have other mods to the motor and plan on probably doing more so I'm sure you'll know exactly what I need once I provide you with the details.
#6
06-22-2001, 09:30 PM
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: LEBANON PA USA
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