I've had the Microtuner 1715 for over a year now and have been very happy. Unfortunately, my computer just died (not Microtuner related). It started out like any other day... I had my oil and fuel filter changed at a local Jiffy Lube. After coming home, I decided to run to the store. Well, my truck wouldn't start. After pinching myself and realizing I wasn't dreaming, reality set in. The theft light on the truck was blinking. The engine was cranking, but not turning over. My keys or my wife's spare set wouldn't work. I left the battery disconnected for about an hour, but still no luck.

After taking it to the dealer, I was grilled. The service manager said that he noticed some aftermarket items on my truck (exhaust, intake, etc…) and that they might be the cause (pause for laughter) of the problem. After explaining that my aftermarket tonneau cover had a greater chance of causing the problem, he agreed to fix it under warranty. Next, he said the cause might be not getting my oil changed at the dealer(pause for laughter again).

After 4 or so hours, he said they couldn't find out what was wrong, so they reprogrammed the computer. He informed me how lucky I was that they agreed to fix it under warranty, he asked me to give them perfect ratings on the survey that Ford would mail to me so they could keep their rating. Apparently, the dealership is going for the Presidents award. Anyway, after driving away, I noticed my speedometer wasn't working and the Off light for the Overdrive on the gear shifter was flashing. After taking it back (glad they test drove it for me first), they said that the rear speed sensor was bad and so was the gauge cluster. So, they give me my truck back with a non-working speedo until they get the parts in on Tuesday. (Not even a Focus loaner...)

Now, I go back Tuesday and they replace the front gauges and the rear speed sensor. When the service manager gives me the keys, I ask if they test drove it first this time. Anyone want to guess the answer??? He asked the mechanic, who said no. Well, after coming back from the test drive, I was told that the whole computer needs to be replaced. Apparently, the gauge cluster and rear speed sensor were fine after all. Go figure… Luckily, I was able to argue for a loaner…with a working speedo!

Anyway, I know that the Microtuner had nothing to do with it, but how do I know what computer code that they replaced my old one with? I want to go witht he custom microtuner, but how do I figure out what I have? Any suggestions???

 

Even if they replace the whole computer, which is unlikely, it should be identical to the old one. From what I understand each vin code has a certain program, and since yours would be OBD2 the information on your computer should match the vin number and be the same as the factory put in it.

I guess the only thing is what program was in it when it went down, if the program from the tuner then I think you will need to send the tuner back in to be reset so you can use it again.

I am uncertain on this last statment as I don't have a tuner but from what i have been reading I am close to being correct.

 

I was not running any of the Microtuner programs at the time. I was in the process of moving and had removed the tuner program about a month earlier.

 

contact mike troyer- i highly recommend 9100 custom tuner-phil-maybe you can try using tuner when new pcm is in and send that tuner to mike and he can derive code from it-phil

 

Hi gschein,

Sounds like you unfortunately ran into a couple of idiots at that dealership, starting with a jackass service manager - that being the case, I wouldn't even let them do *warranty* work on my vehicle. More importantly, I would NEVER give them all 10's on that service follow-up survey - not in a million years would I EVER agree to that, as that only rewards such incompetence and assures that numerous other owners will go thru the same - if not worse.

Good grief.............

PCM's can and do fail - even in brand new vehicles, as we can obviously see is the case with your virtually new 2003 truck. It happens. And I agree, your tonneau cover had as much chance of failing the PCM as your intake or exhaust mods did, or even the Micro Tuner for that matter - good Lord, what an idiot it took to try telling you that nonsense..........

This is easy - just remove the PCM from the vehicle and look on the top of it (which will be the right side of it the way it's mounted in the 197-2003 F-150), and on top you will find a large sticker that has several lines of writing on it - a few lines down, printed in bold capitals, will be the computer code of that new PCM - it will be 3 letters followed by 1 number. For example, LGA1 & LGA2 are common codes in 2003 5.4 automatic F-150's, and there are many other codes, too - but they will *always* have that same format of 3 letters followed by 1 number, 4 digits total in the 1996 & up F-150.

With that computer code, we can then do the custom tuning for you so you can enjoy the kinds of power gains that you see others here using our custom tuning enjoy.

So even though you apparently were put thru an exercise in stupidity, to get what you want now is very simple - just look at the sticker for the code of the replacement PCM, and that will identify your new PCM's computer code, which may or may not be the same as it was from the factory - and that's all we need!

To remove the PCM:

1) Disconnect the battery.

2.) Look behind the battery on the firewall, and you will see a wiring harness with a single 10mm bolt head dead-center - loosen that bolt until you can detach the wiring harness, that's where the wiring harness connects to the front of the PCM. Note that you will NOT be removing that bolt in the middle of that wiring harness, it stays in the harness - just continue loosening it and as you do, you will see the harness slowly back away from the firewall. Keep doing that until you can filly detach the harness by hand, by gently pulling/slightly wiggling straight back on it (towards the front of the vehicle).

3.) Go into the cabin on the passenger's side, and remove the U-shaped black plastic pressure clip that holds the PCM up against it's mounting bracket - the PCM will be that rectangular-shaped aluminum box you will see, just above the passenger's kick panel and up against the inner fender. The way it's mounted in the 1997-2003 F-150, it's width is 1.5", the height is 6 inches, and the length is 9 inches. Anyway, the black plastic pressure clip has a little "tab" on it, just grab that and pull it straight back, towards the rear of the vehicle - it will slide right off.

4.) Once you have removed the pressure clip, just put your hand on the back of the PCM and push it over to the left a bit, and then pull down and out - voilà! It's out!

Then look on the top of the PCM which will be the right side, the way it was mounted in your vehicle) and get the computer code - if you're not sure, just write down *everything* that appears on that sticker, in the exact order & format it appears in, and we can determine the code.

Oh, and to put the PCM back into the vehicle, just reverse the above instructions - and remember, make sure you DO NOT have your keys in the ignition anytime you are disconnecting or connecting the battery, so you don't blow the PATS chip with a current surge.

Nice & easy solution!

Talk to you soon,