guys with 35s
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Here's the deal - over 70% of the people here with 35's do not regear - they come to us for our *custom* tuning which does a far better job than *any* off the shelf tuning device, and they never regear - all it takes is a few minutes using the search feature to find plenty of posts from people who using just our 87 octane tuning in the 2004 & up 5.4 3V using 35's who can turn the tires over from a standstill - which is, by the way, a very poor way to evaluate performance - which can also easily be seen by just as many who do the same thing and cannot spin even their STOCK tires, and it's due to the many different *TIRE COMPOUNDS* far more than sizing.
Look, with a King Ranch F-150 you have a 3-ton PLUS vehicle there - expecting it to fry the tires with 35's from a standstill is completely unrealistic - that may or may not happen, there are far too many variables for that to ever be a relevant yardstick to measure performance by, as anyone who really knows about performance & modifying vehicles for more performance already knows all too well - for example, as I alluded to before, the VASTLY different tire compounds - there are some 35's that a STOCK truck can smoke, and some 35's that a truck with a supercharger on it cannot turn over - and everything in between, making this a completely meaningless standard.
Now, on to the question of additional wear on the transmission (there really is not practical concern on the rear end with the 9.75" read end used in the 2004 & newer trucks) - it all depends on how you operate the vehicle. End of story.
If you drive it like a race car, or frequently tow very heavy loads with it, then what actually matters is keeping the transmission fluid temperature below 190 - and 170 is the ideal temperature. As long as you do that, and don't treat it like a race car, then it'll be fine. But almost nobody puts in a tranny fluid temp gauge with the probe in a relevant location and keeps in in the below 190 range.
We're not talking about 37's here, we're talking about 35's - and many of these F-150's come with tires that are slightly over 32" right from the factory, and with only 3.55 gears at that - so taking a truck with 3.73's and putting 35's on it is not going to present a real danger to the powertrain unless we're frequently towing heavy loads, or driving it like a race car - as long as the tranny fluid temps are kept in line, that's the actual reality.
Now, with all of that having been said - the most important thing is to have proper tuning done first, as that will do more than gears, by far, to reduce slippage in the transmission and keep those friction materials alive much longer - gears cannot do that.
And now with *that* having been said - if it were me, what I would do is to tune it first, and then most likely I would also opt for doing the gearing change at some point AFTER doing the tuning too - as that is the order in which is makes the most sense. Regearing is what will restore the engine back to turning at least as many rpms for a given speed & gear as it did in stock trim, and increase torque multiplication - and that's all it does.
I think what everyone screaming GEARS is forgetting is how these vehicles come configured in the first place, along with what really makes an impact on transmission service life - which is first and foremost, by far, keeping the tranny fluid temps in check - many of these trucks come with 32" tires and 3.55 gears, and the 2004 & newer F-150's have *excellent* transmission fluid coolers with the towing package. So just put on a gauge, remember that for every 20 degrees above 170 you cut our tranny fluid service life in half, and you are generally OK tranny-wise.
The bottom line is, done properly, you can make the truck live either way - though I would say that if it were my truck, I'd have our custom tuning first, and then I'd save my nickels for the $1200-$1600 gear change if it's a 4x4 - now if it's a 2WD truck, then it's much cheaper to do the gears as it's the rear gear only, about $500 with labor - so at that point, I'd do both the tuning and the gears at the same time.
Now this is just how I feel about things as a long-time professional F-150 modifier - others may feel differently. I hope this info & perspective helps a bit, & best of luck whatever you decide!
Look, with a King Ranch F-150 you have a 3-ton PLUS vehicle there - expecting it to fry the tires with 35's from a standstill is completely unrealistic - that may or may not happen, there are far too many variables for that to ever be a relevant yardstick to measure performance by, as anyone who really knows about performance & modifying vehicles for more performance already knows all too well - for example, as I alluded to before, the VASTLY different tire compounds - there are some 35's that a STOCK truck can smoke, and some 35's that a truck with a supercharger on it cannot turn over - and everything in between, making this a completely meaningless standard.
Now, on to the question of additional wear on the transmission (there really is not practical concern on the rear end with the 9.75" read end used in the 2004 & newer trucks) - it all depends on how you operate the vehicle. End of story.
If you drive it like a race car, or frequently tow very heavy loads with it, then what actually matters is keeping the transmission fluid temperature below 190 - and 170 is the ideal temperature. As long as you do that, and don't treat it like a race car, then it'll be fine. But almost nobody puts in a tranny fluid temp gauge with the probe in a relevant location and keeps in in the below 190 range.
We're not talking about 37's here, we're talking about 35's - and many of these F-150's come with tires that are slightly over 32" right from the factory, and with only 3.55 gears at that - so taking a truck with 3.73's and putting 35's on it is not going to present a real danger to the powertrain unless we're frequently towing heavy loads, or driving it like a race car - as long as the tranny fluid temps are kept in line, that's the actual reality.
Now, with all of that having been said - the most important thing is to have proper tuning done first, as that will do more than gears, by far, to reduce slippage in the transmission and keep those friction materials alive much longer - gears cannot do that.
And now with *that* having been said - if it were me, what I would do is to tune it first, and then most likely I would also opt for doing the gearing change at some point AFTER doing the tuning too - as that is the order in which is makes the most sense. Regearing is what will restore the engine back to turning at least as many rpms for a given speed & gear as it did in stock trim, and increase torque multiplication - and that's all it does.
I think what everyone screaming GEARS is forgetting is how these vehicles come configured in the first place, along with what really makes an impact on transmission service life - which is first and foremost, by far, keeping the tranny fluid temps in check - many of these trucks come with 32" tires and 3.55 gears, and the 2004 & newer F-150's have *excellent* transmission fluid coolers with the towing package. So just put on a gauge, remember that for every 20 degrees above 170 you cut our tranny fluid service life in half, and you are generally OK tranny-wise.
The bottom line is, done properly, you can make the truck live either way - though I would say that if it were my truck, I'd have our custom tuning first, and then I'd save my nickels for the $1200-$1600 gear change if it's a 4x4 - now if it's a 2WD truck, then it's much cheaper to do the gears as it's the rear gear only, about $500 with labor - so at that point, I'd do both the tuning and the gears at the same time.
Now this is just how I feel about things as a long-time professional F-150 modifier - others may feel differently. I hope this info & perspective helps a bit, & best of luck whatever you decide!
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#8
#9
Originally Posted by bofer
point well taken, after some thinking i had decided to just go with a tunner instead of gears for that main reason. .....haha, now i just have to decide which tunner to go with....great...
#11
#12
so, i know this is not how you measure performance, but still, can you guys with 35s and 3:73s and the edge installed on your trucks turn the tires over??
the reason why im asking, i was in some soft sugar sand the other day with a truck load of people and gear, i started spinnin in 2 hi so i put her in 4 hi, and she didnt have enough ***** to even spin the tires in sugar sand. i had to put it in 4low to get out.......shame on you ford
the reason why im asking, i was in some soft sugar sand the other day with a truck load of people and gear, i started spinnin in 2 hi so i put her in 4 hi, and she didnt have enough ***** to even spin the tires in sugar sand. i had to put it in 4low to get out.......shame on you ford
#15
Originally Posted by bofer
can you turn em over on the pavement just mashing the gas though....that is my question
Last edited by Whoodatt; 07-25-2006 at 12:17 AM.