Alright guys... So I've had my Hypertech Max Energy Programmer for a year now and I still can't figure out what's what and how to increase performance or increase fuel economy. I am sorry if I sound like a newb here... its because when it comes to tuning I am

So with that said... What does increasing or decreasing the shift points do performance/fuel-economy wise? My programmer allows me to increase/decrease by increments of 100rpm.

How about engine rev limiter? I can increase it by 500 RPM and thats it.... that's not much that I can tell, so I tried it, but I really don't know what that does and don't want to mess my motor up.

Shift firmness... I get that. I like it a little firmer. I figure its less wear on the tranny that way? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I looked around and tried google and the search here, but mostly I found "canned tunes" which from what I understand are like what the Edge Evolution which allows different "levels" to select from. Hypertech was recommended to me and Im glad I got it, I just don't know how to tune properly with it. I would appreciate any help! Thanks!

 

Do not increase the shift points or rev limiter past 5400 rpm or you will blow your torque converter.

 

Your hypertech has generic canned tunes on it also.
Not the same as the edges but the same concept.
Programs that fit a wide range of hex calibrations.

So someone's settings on their hypertech may or may not give you the same response or feel that they got when you try them.

Just remember if someone posts some settings its better not to go all out and put their numbers in right away but enter them in small incriments until you either reach them or find something you like.

 

okay. Gotcha. But what's it do for me performance or fuel economy wise if I increase or decrease my shift points? I've driven manual transmissions before so I guess I could see how shifting sooner could do good in some instances, but how would that help my automatic just doin in-town not loaded down?

 

I know w/o messing with the rev limiter it goes up to about 6200.... Ive hit that a few times... I think I'll retune it right now and turn the rev limiter back to stock

 

Good idea! Briefly going a bit above 5400 shouldn't be harmful. My max RPM is set at 5500 in the tow tune. But, the WOT shift points are set around 5000, 5000 and 4400. These points are where the shift is "commanded", but there will be a momentary increase as the shift takes place. You want to make sure that increase doesn't hit the rev limit or it may not complete. The 3-4 upshift seems to need more leeway than the other two also, which is why it's much lower. (By the way, I've NEVER seen 5500 RPM on my tach, with these settings).

However, your question about economy makes me think you are talking about "part throttle" shift points (normal acceleration). If you reduce those, it gets you into a higher gear sooner, which will probably help with economy a bit. Increasing them will give you a feeling of more power available.

Increasing the shift firmness modestly is probably good, but too much puts stress on the drivetrain. Decreasing it though might give you increased clutch wear.

I like your reference to a manual transmission. When accelerating aggressively with one, I know I've timed the clutch and throttle correctly if there's no "lurch" in the shift and no noticeable decrease in acceleration as the clutch is applied and then released. In other words, the shift should be very quick, positive and smooth. That's the feeling I really would like to get close to in a WOT automatic upshift.

Those are my just thoughts on this though.

- Jack

 

The 3-4 WOT upshift should be set so high that you cannot shift from 3-4 at WOT, in order to protect the transmission.

The problem with non-custom tuning is you don't get the control needed to properly address shifting for economy. In order to do this the entire shift maps need to be changed so light throttle shifts can be achieved at light loads to maximize economy without lugging, while still leaving higher throttle shifts at a higher RPM so you can still have the extra power on command. Additionally, one of the best part throttle changes that can be made for economy is more a more aggressive torque converter lockup schedule, if you can live with the additional locking in 2nd gear as well as slightly lower points in 3rd and 4th. Be aware, however, that it'll feel like there's less part throttle power with a stock converter.

My suggestion is to get with PHP as they can provide custom tunes specifically for your needs for the Edge.

 

The programmer the OP is wanting shift info on is a Hypertech NOT an Edge.

 

Thanks guys! I appreciate it a lot! I have also learned a good bit too! Should I get my truck dyno'd? Would they do a custom tune? That is, the place that does the dyno I mean?

 

I'm not sure what settings you have as I have a gryphon but I woud try raising the 1st(1-2/2-1) and 2nd(2-3,3-2) gear shifts and lowering the 4th gear shifts(I'm talking about regular driving shifts, not WOT). That should have you covered in most city driving up to about 45mph. Then tweak the 4th gear torque converter to lock at about 50 mph so as soon as your out of town you will have it lock for better cruising economy.

You can increase the shift firmenss in small increments until you find what you like. Just make sure it isn't the kind of shift that feels like a not-so-little kid kicking the back of your seat at every shift.

 

I like your "not-so-little kid" reference... lol... my mom used to give me "time out" when I was a kid for kicking the back of her seat....

Thanks for the info Longshot! I don't think my hypertech allows to change between WOT and regular acceleration, and I'm not sure I can make it lock into 4th after 50... in fact I know I cant, bc it kills me going up this one hill (if any of you are from around raleigh/***uay-varina area) on 401 going into ***uay, where the speedlimit is 55 and my truck ALWAYS downshifts about 1/4 way up the hill and it kills me, its like I can feel the gas getting sucked out of the tank. I try to ride the throttle to keep it at the same RPM going up the hill as it was leading up to the hill and sometimes that has worked and it wont downshift or it'll make it about 1/2 or 3/4 way up before downshifting. If you do 65 it wont do that but I TRY to do the speed limit most of the time, so that doesnt help :/

 

That's a part throttle downshift/torque converter unlock setting.

The Edge/Gryphon programmers allow you to adjust those settings, but I don't know about the Hypertech.

Anyway, I know exactly what you mean, because I felt the same way about my truck. The torque converter was unlocking and it was downshifting too soon under mild load. I fixed this behavior by reducing the part throttle TC unlock points in ALL gears to the max and by reducing the downshifts the same. (I also reduced the TC lock settings and the upshft settings the same way. My goal was to get the truck into the highest gear possible with the TC locked and to keep it there as long as possible under mild load. This strategy worked for me.

I can still accelerate just fine when I need to - I just need to push a bit harder on the gas pedal. These settings don't effect the WOT shifting behavior.

I COULD have PHP adjust my custom tunes to cause this to happen without my input; but, it doesn't seem important enough to merit Bill's attention.

There are many people, of course, that want the exact opposite to happen. They seem to love having the engine rev to a high value at the slightest provocation.

The reason you can get up the hill at a higher speed without the TC unlock/downshift is because both are a function of speed and throttle opening. If the speed drops, or the throttle opens enough, the change occurs.

- Jack

 

Just looked at their website and it looks like for those options to be adjusted you'll have to find a tuner that uses the hypertech module. I can't think of any that use that use that programmer but I'm sure there has to be one.

 

Wingman - I'm sure you've noticed that there are differing opinions in how to set things here from different posters in this thread. That's to be expected and is why I stay away from telling people how to "customize" any kind of tune unless I have a very good idea of exactly what they are trying to accomplish.

Like you though, I resonate to Longshot's (kid kicking the back of the seat) analogy. That is a feeling I DON'T care for, but I also don't want the shift change to feel "drawn-out" (and I can't think of a suitable example, but I'd know it if I felt it). And, some people DO want the "kid kick" feeling - I think as long as it's not TOO hard, it's fine.

Really, it all boils down to something 88racing said in his first post. "Make small changes... [till you] find something you like."

- Jack

 

Jack and 88 are right. I have found those changes to be beneficial but every vehicle will act slightly different.