i just had to bring my truck in no brake lights,had to start in neytral,no radio or door locks,been there two days and their still looking does anyone have a clue

 

Take it somewhere else.

If they can't find something that obvious, they shouldn't be working on automotive electrical systems.

You probably have at least three different, unrelated faults, namely: TR Sensor (Neutral safety switch) faulty or out of adjustment; power feed to the brake lights, brake light switch, or the MFS; and power feed to the other accessories.

Radio & door locks, check F8.

Brake lights, If the 3rd light does not work, check F13. If blown, inspect cruise disconnect switch for fluid contamination before replacing fuse. If fuse is intact, suspect BPP switch. If third light does work, suspect the MFS.

Steve

 

It's prbably something so easy everyone will feel stupid once it's found. I've been there sdone that! As matter of fact just last summer right before I bought the truck I was borrwing a friends Chev Blazer. It started acting up on me, Dieing for no reason usally while making a right hand turn and after about 20 mins of driving/running then would act like the battery was dead. So I replaced her alternator = $90, battery $50, Several suspected Misc. things. Suddenly after I had fought with it, my mechanic had fought with it, and my buddies from the auto store had fought with it for almost 2 weeks. Suddenly I discover that the power wire going into the distribution box under the hood is rusted. I took the screw out, cleaned the terminal & connector with sand paper and has never had an issue again since then. So I put a couple hundred bucks of my own money in to her car when a piece of sand paper fixed it.

 

it could be the key itself. it has a bettery and computerchip in it; it has something to do with the theft system. do you have a spare key? try the spare and see. its worth a shot.

Chris

 

Update - The odometer would not light up, other warning lights were lit, with the key in the run position. No gauge swings - dead. No DTC codes, checked fuses, loose wires, etc. On previous advise, I hooked up a new battery (from the Sons' car) - the gauges swung once and the truck would now start. The battery voltage read 12.55v. Haven't had time to have the battery checked, the truck is 39 months old, the battery hasn't been changed and is probably a 36 month standard battery. Will check or replace tomorrow and let the board know -

 

Update - problem with the gauge swings is not the battery in this case. New battery was installed and it still does the gauge swing with the key in the run position and the 'no odometer, no start' sequence. Anyone have any other suggestions? PCM, PATS, cluster? I am having bad thoughts of taking it in to Ford -

 

Is the odoometer gone completely or are there ------------ all the way across?
What does the Theft light do when you turn the ignition on?

 

The odometer is not powered, blank and dark, THEFT light is not lit, battery and brake light, etc. are lit. If you try to start it, it appears that the PATS system is active - it will not start. This is one and the worse situation. The other is with the key in run position, all the gauges swing full scale - after a few seconds go to normal position, THEFT light is active and the vehicle will start. When the gauges swing, the tripometer is also reset. The run position - no start is getting worse. Last night after about twenty minutes of checking fuse, DTC's, giggling wires - nothing. Unhooked the battery, attached a newer battery - gauges swung and it started. New battery installed and the same thing, however it is still doing the swing and the run position - no start.
This is getting old .......... It is almost like the cluster, PATS is loosing power intermittently.

 

Alright, out of cureosity I went out in the rain and tried my cheap spare key I had made at walmart to unlock my doors when I lock my keys inside. "This truck doesn't have a keypad like I'm use to." Anyway it does not have the security chip or anything to start the truck. When I put it in everything acts normal. When I turn it to run, then is still normal except "Theft Light" flashes. But odometer comes on, gauges stay down except volts and fuel gauge, etc. Then when turn to start... Engine cranks but will not start... So now you know it's probably not the key.

I'm still not convinced it's anything major "yet"... I could be wrong! It has happened once before.
Check all of your grounds... Start with the major grounds on the engine block, frame, body, etc. then start fanning out. Get a few feet of some 8 gauge wire and a pair of alligator clips to make a test jumper. Then go around and try different grounds... Be prepared to spend several several hours/days... It may not be a difficult or expensive fix. But that does not mean it will be a fix that is easy to find... Patience or if you suffer from the lack there of like me, will be your worst enemy! Trust me been there done that.

 

Thanks - I do appreciate your efforts. I have three major grounds that have not been checked yet, will get that tomorrow. Still can't make the connection between the two problems. It seems like the HEC/cluster looses power and starts new when the gauges swing - with the run no-start, seems part of the HEC/cluster is not powered and PATS is on. Can't quite get my head wrapped around this problem yet - broken solder joint on the power side of the HEC/cluster circuit board?

Thanks again for the help - and typically not patient - but working on it.

 

I wonder if this has anything to do with the cold solder joints that make the odometer blank out intermittantly? Maybe this is a severe case of that problem??

Were you having trouble with the odometer prior to the no-start situation?? Dim, or out completely sometimes??

Just a thought...

Good luck, and keep us informed if you find it...

Matt

 

First started out with the gauge swings - when the key is turned to the 'run' position, the odometer goes to all zeros except the two left most digits are combination of digits, the gauges swing, reset and it will start. Later, as a seperate issue, it started with the odometer, the left indicator lights (oil pressure, check engine), all gauges being dead, no 'THEFT' light, no odometer, appears to be a loss of power on all gauges. The indicator lights on the right hand side will be powered. In this condition, the starter will engage with no - start. Starting to think the 'microprossesor' in the cluster or the cylinder lock / linkage not completely engaging the starter switch. A new starter switch has been installed. When it goes dead, the key/cylinder lock can be manipulated slowly on-off and it will come back alive or it may be just a random occurance. It does not seem to have any rhyme or reason to it. Have also replaced key relays and checked fuses, beat on the dash, banged the central fuse block, nothing seems to affect it. Have also checked, cleaned all the grounds. New battery. Had read somewhere, when a new cluster is installed and powered up - the gauges will swing. These two conditions can be made to occur whiled parked, engine off, just turning the key off and on, as well as no swings, normal condition and ready to race. Puzzling - not ready to take it to the shop yet -

 

Has it rained in your neck of the woods lately? Inspect for signs of water intrusion into the GEM/CJB from a windshield leak.

 

It has rained recently, however these conditions have been occuring for about a year. Worst no-start was when it was dry and 8o degrees. This is something that hasn't been checked - the windshield was replaced about two years ago - taken out by softball size hail during a tornado. Where is the GEM located? Have checked around the CJB but not thoroughly.

 

It's bolted to the central junction box with three T20 Torx screws.