Last edit by: IB Advertising
Is your 'door ajar' or 'dome light' staying on? Forum members suggest various methods that they fixed their issue. The methods include:
Read the full discussion below to find out the preferred method.
Read the full discussion below to find out the preferred method.
If your "door ajar" or "dome light" is staying on, Read this.
#31
Originally Posted by jpgillespieusa
I used the wd-40 trick and low and behold the light went out. It was driving me nuts...
Now I notice that the light will stay on ocasionally until I turn the key to the on position then it goes out.
Any ideas?
Jimmy
Now I notice that the light will stay on ocasionally until I turn the key to the on position then it goes out.
Any ideas?
Jimmy
#32
#33
It's the relay in the main fuse box that controls the interior lights, check your owners manual. If it's bad and needs replaced, if you go to Ford and give them the number it will show that the relay is discontinued with no replacement. I used the relay that they recommend for the A/C and have not had any problems since.
#35
#36
#39
for better longer lasting results instead of using WD-40 there is a product on the market which is a lubricant (safe with electronics also I use it in my gaming cpu @ home) WD-40 is a rust remover not a lubricant though most of us (myself included) use it as 1. I will edit this when I get home and find that can of spray. Good God why are the hands on the clock moving so slow now?
#40
Originally Posted by lonewolf211984
for better longer lasting results instead of using WD-40 there is a product on the market which is a lubricant (safe with electronics also I use it in my gaming cpu @ home) WD-40 is a rust remover not a lubricant though most of us (myself included) use it as 1. I will edit this when I get home and find that can of spray. Good God why are the hands on the clock moving so slow now?
I agree totally, The problem with WD40 is it attracts dust and gums up fast, so you will be doing this once a year or more, what I use is an electrical contact cleaner to unjam the switch, then use a silicone based lube spray. I did this once 5 years ago on both my F150 and the wife's Taurus, where my buddy does it every year because he is to cheep to buy anything but WD40
Steve
#42
Originally Posted by JgGravy
Had this problem the FIRST day i got the truck, and now it's all fixed thanks to good old WD-40. Ended up leaving the vehicle running so my battery didn't die on me and burning up a good 1/4 tank of gas.
Now i havn't had the problem for 4 days and i know how to fix it in the future.
Now i havn't had the problem for 4 days and i know how to fix it in the future.
#43
Just gotta say that I love this board. I know I don't have many posts or been a member a long time but stuff like this post has saved me hundreds of dollars so I happily clink on links from here looking for new gear..
Day before my appointment to have this issue fixed I stumbled across this board 4 months ago, ran out to my truck carrying my trusty can of WD40 and 10 minutes later was canceling the appointment. I love penny tech!
Day before my appointment to have this issue fixed I stumbled across this board 4 months ago, ran out to my truck carrying my trusty can of WD40 and 10 minutes later was canceling the appointment. I love penny tech!
#45
I had this on my 97 F150 and my friends 99 f150. I bought the part, it is a pin switch that sits upside down above the latch. Cost about $12 for the part and then you just take off the door panel, unhook the handle latch rods and then unhook the switch wire connector, unscrew the 3 bolts holding the latch to the door, take out the latch, replace the pin switch then reverse these directions to put back together. The pin switch gets gummed up and needs to be replaced, or you can just fill your doors with WD-40. my $0.02