Cruise fires
#17
#18
1l1z-9f924-aa
Just went and bought the replacement switch at the local ford dealer. Took 5 minutes to install and now its a done deal. It only cost 13 bucks for the switch and the harness. Its worth 13 bucks for peace of mind and to keep a otherwise excellent vehicle from going up in smoke. Thanks for all the info.
#20
GIJoe is incorrect. My 2000 F150 is part of the recall and it has a 15A fuse in the cruise circuit. The problem is the fire starts before the 15A fuse blows. 15A is a lot of power and can melt the thin wires and ignite the brakefluid. Here is a pic of the circuit.
While waiting for the recall, I spliced a 1 amp fuse into the hot wire.
Later model years (2004+) have the circuit connected to a ingnition switched bus and have a seperate 2 amp fuse.
Fritz
While waiting for the recall, I spliced a 1 amp fuse into the hot wire.
Later model years (2004+) have the circuit connected to a ingnition switched bus and have a seperate 2 amp fuse.
Fritz
#23
I did not have to bleed anything. I swapped it out and had the same pedal I had before I started. I was thinking the same thing but honestly I dont think that bleeding the brakes could get that little bit of air out of the switch. You could bleed it at the switch by loosening the switch and having someone else hold the pedal down(with the ignition key off) but the air trapped up inside the switch has nowhere to go as it is the highest point in the hydraulic circuit besides the fluid reservoir.
#25
Originally Posted by Fritzthecat
GIJoe is incorrect. My 2000 F150 is part of the recall and it has a 15A fuse in the cruise circuit. The problem is the fire starts before the 15A fuse blows. 15A is a lot of power and can melt the thin wires and ignite the brakefluid. Here is a pic of the circuit.
While waiting for the recall, I spliced a 1 amp fuse into the hot wire.
Later model years (2004+) have the circuit connected to a ingnition switched bus and have a seperate 2 amp fuse.
Fritz
While waiting for the recall, I spliced a 1 amp fuse into the hot wire.
Later model years (2004+) have the circuit connected to a ingnition switched bus and have a seperate 2 amp fuse.
Fritz
I don't know how I got it in my brain that there was no fuse on that circuit.... just looked at all the schematics again and, sure enough, there are fuses in them every year..... guess I've been staring at too many different ones over the last couple weeks. My humblest apologies..... I stand corrected.
-Joe
#28
#29
#30
I don't know why all the switches haven't been recalled. From what I understand, not all of them fail, and they can't get a finger on why some do and some don't, and that's why they're testing them. They have identified that particular batch as having a significant number of them fail, and that's why they recalled them.
As long as you fill the switch with a couple drops of fluid before installing it, it's a simple install, and, like I've said before, if the $30 lets you sleep better at night, go for it.
I honestly don't know where the problem lies. My opinion (and this is strictly my own personal opinion) is that I'd rather have a known good design on the truck than a possible bad one and would replace it with the better of the two. It costs less than a tank of gas, but could prevent a total loss of the truck.
Again, that's only my opinion.
-Joe
As long as you fill the switch with a couple drops of fluid before installing it, it's a simple install, and, like I've said before, if the $30 lets you sleep better at night, go for it.
I honestly don't know where the problem lies. My opinion (and this is strictly my own personal opinion) is that I'd rather have a known good design on the truck than a possible bad one and would replace it with the better of the two. It costs less than a tank of gas, but could prevent a total loss of the truck.
Again, that's only my opinion.
-Joe