Dashboard and tail lights out—fuse keeps blowing
#1
10-20-2006, 06:00 PM
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Dashboard and tail lights out—fuse keeps blowing
I took my 97 F150 4.2L in to get two new tires. After I picked the truck up I noticed the dash lights were out—I thought a blown fuse. The next day I noticed the tail lights and the "lights on alarm" [ ding ding ding ] were also out. I took it back to the tire establishment and ask them to figure out what went wrong—I assumed they knocked something during the courtesy check.
They discovered that the under the hood #7—15 amp fuse kept blowing.
Any ideas what may be causing the problem?
Thanks
They discovered that the under the hood #7—15 amp fuse kept blowing.
Any ideas what may be causing the problem?
Thanks
#3
10-22-2006, 11:53 PM
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#4
10-23-2006, 01:47 PM
Trailer wiring is a seperate fuse from the truck's parking lamps. Those are in the Engine Mini Fuse Panel just behind the Battery Junction Box, fuse #2 20 AMP.
I have to ask, with the instrument panel being dead :
Is fuse #29 good ?
This is for : Autolamp, instrument cluster, transmission control indicator lamp and switch. One way to test this is to try the Autolamps ( if installed ) or take it for a spin, and see if you can shut the overdrive off ( button at the end of the shift **** ?? ).
I ask this, as the Fuse #7 should only be the parking and tail lamps, with the interrior lamps on a seperate fuse, but that is what I see in the Owners Manual. It won't be until later that I can get to the EVTM to check this.
Just a though, if you are checking things today.
Also, by keeps blowing, I assume this to be, you put a new fuse in and it blows. If so, is it the moment you put it in, or when you open the door, or when you turn on the lights ?
Also, do the interior lamps still work ( dome lamp ) ?
Thanks, let us know where you stand at.
I have to ask, with the instrument panel being dead :
Is fuse #29 good ?
This is for : Autolamp, instrument cluster, transmission control indicator lamp and switch. One way to test this is to try the Autolamps ( if installed ) or take it for a spin, and see if you can shut the overdrive off ( button at the end of the shift **** ?? ).
I ask this, as the Fuse #7 should only be the parking and tail lamps, with the interrior lamps on a seperate fuse, but that is what I see in the Owners Manual. It won't be until later that I can get to the EVTM to check this.
Just a though, if you are checking things today.
Also, by keeps blowing, I assume this to be, you put a new fuse in and it blows. If so, is it the moment you put it in, or when you open the door, or when you turn on the lights ?
Also, do the interior lamps still work ( dome lamp ) ?
Thanks, let us know where you stand at.
#5
10-23-2006, 07:17 PM
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RGSMDNR and SScully,
That was it!
My son and I removed the topper a few days before and I hooked up two wires incorrectly.
I twisted two wires together that created a short.
As soon as I read your first post I knew what I had done.
#29 was good when I checked it
All the other interior lamps worked
#7 kept blowing when the car was turned on--so fast that I couldn't check to see what the problem was.
It was just the dash lights [ from the instrument panel to the radio and down to the heater/AC ], the tail lights [ not sure about the reverse lights ] and the "lights on" warning sounder [ ding ding ding ] that were out
The two wires had been in a plastic nut [ clamp ] that kept them separate, I twisted them together. I had forgotten to unhook them when we removed the topper, so they just pulled apart and the nut dropped to the bed.
I saw the nut lying in the truck bed and picked it up.
Later when we put the topper back on I saw two bare wires and realized the nut went on those two wires. So I twisted them together and clamped it on. When I received your post it all came rushing back and I remembered from previous topper removals that I had hooked the two wires up wrong.
The nut [ clamp ] was designed to keep the wires dry and apart.
I hope all this helps explain what happened so someone else can learn from my stupid mistake.
RGSMDNR and SScully thanks for all your help!
A 50 cent fuse is better than a $150.00 charge to have someone else chase down my bad wiring.
[ And I take back all those rotten things I said about the guys at the tire store ]
mj
That was it!
My son and I removed the topper a few days before and I hooked up two wires incorrectly.
I twisted two wires together that created a short.
As soon as I read your first post I knew what I had done.
#29 was good when I checked it
All the other interior lamps worked
#7 kept blowing when the car was turned on--so fast that I couldn't check to see what the problem was.
It was just the dash lights [ from the instrument panel to the radio and down to the heater/AC ], the tail lights [ not sure about the reverse lights ] and the "lights on" warning sounder [ ding ding ding ] that were out
The two wires had been in a plastic nut [ clamp ] that kept them separate, I twisted them together. I had forgotten to unhook them when we removed the topper, so they just pulled apart and the nut dropped to the bed.
I saw the nut lying in the truck bed and picked it up.
Later when we put the topper back on I saw two bare wires and realized the nut went on those two wires. So I twisted them together and clamped it on. When I received your post it all came rushing back and I remembered from previous topper removals that I had hooked the two wires up wrong.
The nut [ clamp ] was designed to keep the wires dry and apart.
I hope all this helps explain what happened so someone else can learn from my stupid mistake.
RGSMDNR and SScully thanks for all your help!
A 50 cent fuse is better than a $150.00 charge to have someone else chase down my bad wiring.
[ And I take back all those rotten things I said about the guys at the tire store ]
mj