Dark headlight switch is bothering me
#16
Well.... yeah... but...
check out that bulb... like I said... its the size of a 5mm LED... I have never noticed something like this in say,... Pep Boys.... but I suppose its possible you could order it???
Check out the pic....
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?num=13288
Dumb Green Pic...
Check out the pic....
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?num=13288
Dumb Green Pic...
#20
Added...
I am NOT an electronics guru... but here is what I did...
When I took apart the passenger side windows control for example, I sort of examined the electric "path". (LEDs are POLARITY sensative....) In the path was a resistor. I noticed all the switches had some resisior... and upon read some other how to articles onn the web.... realized they don't handle all the juice on the circut. To test that.... I just took one of the LEDs that I purchased (new)... and placed it on a 9volt battery (not 12volts in the truck... and noted that first it got hot,... then smoked... and the color started to change... then it died.... within about 2-3 minutes... tested that same process with one of the LEDS (green - used) from a ford switch... same affect.
SO.... when I took out that bulb... I felt I needed a resitor in the circut... so I "stole" one from one of the extra switches I bought on ebay (my initial test materials)... AND PAID ATTENTION TO HOW THE RESISTOR WAS PLACED IN THE CIRCUT>>> MEANING>>> look at POLARITY...
And when I hooked it up with a resitor... put the 9volt battery to the circut.... LED lights... but no heat.... would light for 10 minutes... so all seems good...
When I took apart the passenger side windows control for example, I sort of examined the electric "path". (LEDs are POLARITY sensative....) In the path was a resistor. I noticed all the switches had some resisior... and upon read some other how to articles onn the web.... realized they don't handle all the juice on the circut. To test that.... I just took one of the LEDs that I purchased (new)... and placed it on a 9volt battery (not 12volts in the truck... and noted that first it got hot,... then smoked... and the color started to change... then it died.... within about 2-3 minutes... tested that same process with one of the LEDS (green - used) from a ford switch... same affect.
SO.... when I took out that bulb... I felt I needed a resitor in the circut... so I "stole" one from one of the extra switches I bought on ebay (my initial test materials)... AND PAID ATTENTION TO HOW THE RESISTOR WAS PLACED IN THE CIRCUT>>> MEANING>>> look at POLARITY...
And when I hooked it up with a resitor... put the 9volt battery to the circut.... LED lights... but no heat.... would light for 10 minutes... so all seems good...
#23
Sorry..
I don't have one of the actual one I used (I was so pissed at having to replace the bulb)...
but if you haven't EVER seen one...
http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...=1&sa=N&tab=wi
(its a google IMAGE search for resistor... )
but if you haven't EVER seen one...
http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...=1&sa=N&tab=wi
(its a google IMAGE search for resistor... )
#27
Originally Posted by undeaddemon
I am NOT an electronics guru... but here is what I did...
When I took apart the passenger side windows control for example, I sort of examined the electric "path". (LEDs are POLARITY sensative....) In the path was a resistor. I noticed all the switches had some resisior... and upon read some other how to articles onn the web.... realized they don't handle all the juice on the circut. To test that.... I just took one of the LEDs that I purchased (new)... and placed it on a 9volt battery (not 12volts in the truck... and noted that first it got hot,... then smoked... and the color started to change... then it died.... within about 2-3 minutes... tested that same process with one of the LEDS (green - used) from a ford switch... same affect.
SO.... when I took out that bulb... I felt I needed a resitor in the circut... so I "stole" one from one of the extra switches I bought on ebay (my initial test materials)... AND PAID ATTENTION TO HOW THE RESISTOR WAS PLACED IN THE CIRCUT>>> MEANING>>> look at POLARITY...
And when I hooked it up with a resitor... put the 9volt battery to the circut.... LED lights... but no heat.... would light for 10 minutes... so all seems good...
When I took apart the passenger side windows control for example, I sort of examined the electric "path". (LEDs are POLARITY sensative....) In the path was a resistor. I noticed all the switches had some resisior... and upon read some other how to articles onn the web.... realized they don't handle all the juice on the circut. To test that.... I just took one of the LEDs that I purchased (new)... and placed it on a 9volt battery (not 12volts in the truck... and noted that first it got hot,... then smoked... and the color started to change... then it died.... within about 2-3 minutes... tested that same process with one of the LEDS (green - used) from a ford switch... same affect.
SO.... when I took out that bulb... I felt I needed a resitor in the circut... so I "stole" one from one of the extra switches I bought on ebay (my initial test materials)... AND PAID ATTENTION TO HOW THE RESISTOR WAS PLACED IN THE CIRCUT>>> MEANING>>> look at POLARITY...
And when I hooked it up with a resitor... put the 9volt battery to the circut.... LED lights... but no heat.... would light for 10 minutes... so all seems good...
#28
Cool..
Good to get the voltage info for the LEDs...
Sucks,.. and stupid of me not to get a pic of the resistor I used... but it is one from a windows switch... I can't remember the colors of the stripes...let alone the order... See I dont want to disassemble the Headlight Switch again. It uses plastic studs from the actual plastic face. Those studs are melted down... to lock the front face to the main housing, effectivly making the entire unit a "non-service" component. So I cut off the melted area... then remelted what I could when I sealed it... I don't think I would survue another disassembly.
Thanks Though...
I still have the cruise control buttons to mod.... not sure what I'll find inside those suckers....
Sucks,.. and stupid of me not to get a pic of the resistor I used... but it is one from a windows switch... I can't remember the colors of the stripes...let alone the order... See I dont want to disassemble the Headlight Switch again. It uses plastic studs from the actual plastic face. Those studs are melted down... to lock the front face to the main housing, effectivly making the entire unit a "non-service" component. So I cut off the melted area... then remelted what I could when I sealed it... I don't think I would survue another disassembly.
Thanks Though...
I still have the cruise control buttons to mod.... not sure what I'll find inside those suckers....