Ok, well I just returned from the Ford dealer with my new relay.....

and of course.....it doesnt work, still the same problem.

I dont understand, I did the test just like you described and the relay still didnt work....

What else can I do now?

Please help

 

You don't have an indication if both tests were good.

With the key off, you have >+12V DC on pin #3 ?

With the main headlamp switch on, and the fog lamp icon on the switch illuminated, you have > +12 V DC on Pin #1 ?

If both of these are yes, once you reinstall the relay, how are you checking for power at the fog lamp connector ?

 

I did the test as you described with a multi-meter, I used my negative battery terminal as a ground. I had power on #1 with the switch on parking lamps and the fog light pulled out (the indicator light was on) and I had power to the #3 as well.

All the fuses remain good. I checked power at the fog light connection with the relay in place, and there was none obviously.

Once I found the relay was not the problem, I tried to return it. I had to get this at a Ford dealer as Autozone said it was a delaer only part. Ford would not take it back for a refund because it is an electrical part.

Now I think I have to buy a headlight switch, but dont want to get one at Ford, have it not work and be stuck with what I am sure is a very expensive part.

So, what switches of what year F-150's will work in my truck? 99-04? I do not have the auto-lamp feature on my truck. I guess i hafta go search some junkyards....

Is there anything else I can do to let me know for sure it is the headlight switch?

Thanks again

 

Just called my local Ford dealer and said it would be about $85 for a new headlamp switch....boy that sucks....waiting to hear back before I go buy one though...

 

For the fog lamp part, no need to replace the main headlamp switch.

You have power to the coil of the fog lamp relay, from the main headlamp switch. That is correct.

When you test power at the fog lamp connector, how are you doing this ? ( using both pins, or trying to find a different ground by the connector )

2 additional tests I can think of :

1. With the fog lamp relay removed, check the resistance between pin #5 of the fog lamp relay, and the side of the fog lamp connector that is Tan w/ orange stripe.
1.1. This will check the fog lamp relay to fog lamp connector wiring harness.
1.2. Problem is no continuity or infinity for ohms
1.2.1. Cause : broken wire from fuse panel to connector ( not likely )
1.2.2. You have the wrong relay socket,
1.3. Good if continuity or ~ 0 ohms

2. If test #1 is good, jumper the pins #3 and #5 with a short jumper wire with filed down male spade terminals.
2.1. This will apply power directly to the fog lamp connectors, regardless of the fog lamp switch position, and the connector should have power ( due to test #1 passing ).
2.2. If you have power, and the bulb does not work, socket problem or bad bulbs

Speaking of which, have you tried switching a bulb in the fog lamps ?

 

(insert sigh here)

Ok, first off, SSCULLY Icant thank you enough for all of your advice, you are really helping a brother out here...

With that said, here are the results of wat you asked me to try out:

Test #1
I tested the continuity and found I got 00.3 ohms with my Multi-meter between hole #5 on the relay and the tan wire on the fog light socket. I am sure I have the right hole because there is a little map on the outside of the relay.

Test #2
I made a jumper and placed one into hole #3 and the other into hole #5 on the relay socket...and...nothing....not a thing....darkness....

Additionally I re-did a few tests....(I had the ignition off for all of them)

I have 11.46V to the #3 hole in the relay socket, regardless of the headlamp switch.

I have 11.40V to the #1 hole in the relay socket with the parking lights on and the fog light switch pulled out.

The #4 hole goes to nothing, there is no connection in that hole.

And the #2 hole in the socket relay gets about 0.13V when the parking lamps and the fog light switch is pulled out.

Also, I left the parking lights on and the fog light switch pulled out and gently placed the relay back into its spot, I can feel the relay working and here it "clicking" if I just touch the contacts, so I am confident that both relays I know have are good.

I re-checked ALL fuses in both panels and found none to be blown. I wasnt sure if this was correct or not though. When I pull out the fog light switch I still get power to the #27 socket in the fuse panel under my dash. And like we had discussed before, when I put a larger fuse in there, 7.5a, and turn on the parking lights, the low beam headlights come on.

I havent been able to check my bulbs, but I am confident they are both ok, as the socket for them is not getting power, I would find it really weird that I would have 2 blown bulbs.

So, SCCULLY, I am beyond stumped, I hope you have some more tricks up your sleeve....

I cant think of anything I am missing to tell you, other than the "fog light mod." I have no other electrical modifictions to my truck. They were working fine and then just one day, stopped working, all of a sudden.

I look forward to your next helpful reply....

Thanks in advance once again, if you are anywhere near Pittsburgh, I owe you a few beers....

 

Well, 00.3 ohms shows that the wire is good.

When you say you made a jumper and got "darkness" ? Is this the bulb did not light, or you got 0 V DC ?

2 other methods, to the same place :

1. Check resistance between the black wire @ the connector and the battery.
2, Install the jumper, and test from the Tan w/ orange stripe to neg on the battery with a volt meter.

With the jumper installed ( as long as the jumper is correct ) you should have power on the Tan w/ Org wire.

 

Thats correct, the fog lights did not illuminate when I made the jumper, I did not test the Volts.

1. How do I do this? Do I check to the positive or the negative on the battery? (I am checking for Ohms right?)

2. Am I checking for Ohms or Volts when I do this?

Sorry, like I said I am not very electrically inclined, but I can follow directions! ha ha

Also, with the information we have gathered so far, do you have any ideas on what the culprit might be? You said earlier it wasnt the headlight switch, which was a relief as it is an expensive part. And we also know that it is not the relay. This has me pretty concerned....because pretty much any other part it could be is gonna be real expensive and a real PIA to replace.

Thanks again for your suggestions, I wont have a chance to do these until saturday, and I will reply back then with my findings.

 

Sorry should have been a bit more verbose about it.
Black wire on the fog lamps bulb connector to neg on the battery
Black is the connection to ground for the fog lamp.

Test #2 is from power ( the jumper feeds power from Fuse #9 15 A from pin #3 to pin #5 ) at the tan w/ orange stripe wire to ground on the battery.

Both these tests are to check the ground wire ( black circuit # 57 ) at the fog lamp bulb connector.
The ohm continuity check in test #1 is checking the wire, just like you already did from the relay socket to the fog lamp connector ( 0.3 ohms value before ) for the power side.
I am shocked that you did not have power at the Tan w/ orange stripe wire when you installed the jumper. Wire tested good, so it should be a case of ground was not there ( reason for these tests ) or in the case of the way you tested for power, the bulb is bad.
Ground is the only thing left at this point, or at least should be.

Good luck, let us know what you come up with this weekend.

 

Ok, I'm back....sorry for the delay!!! I was in Virginia all this week with my wife for job interviews so I wasnt able to get to the tests until just today, and here are the results:

Test #1: Black bulb socket to - Batt term. (Ohms)
I received 00.6 Ohms for this test with my Ohm meter set in the 200K range.

Test #2: Make jumper from #3 to #5 pin, then test volts from Tan bulb socket to - Batt term.
I received 12.33 volts during this test.

For both of these tests the headlamp and foglamp switch was in the "off" position and the keys were NOT in the ignition.

And for added measure I checked, yet again each and every fuse in the vehicle.

Here is some other information, not sure if it is of any benefit or not. I have NO other issues with this vehicle, each and every other piece of electrical equipment works flawlessly.

Also, my truck sits quite a bit. It is a 2000 with 60,000 miles on it, now the weather this winter has not been bad at all, not too much salt used at all..and all the fog light connections look to be without corrosion.

So, where do we go from here pal?

As always...thanks in advance...

 

Replace your fog lamp bulbs, they are burnt out.

You tested the voltage to the coil in the fog lamp relay as good ( pin #1 test above ). This is the test parkign lamps, with the fog lamp switch pulled out.

You did a continuity test from the output of the fog lamp relay pin #5 to the fog lamps connector as good.

You did a continuity test from the ground to the battery ground.

You jumper the pins that would be normally open, and get power at the fog lamps connector.

Not much left to do, but replace your bulbs. Remember not to touch them when taking them in or out with your bare hands. The oil on your skin will cause the bulb to burn out VERY quick.

 

holy crap.....

Hey guess what...the friggin bulbs were burnt out....

LOL, I swear all of the other posts I made were true and I did NOT have power to the socket connections....

Well, I fixed one problem and created another, the LED's that light the headlight switch are still not working, I guess I hafta buy a new switch, but thats not my priority at this point, just glad to have the fogs back.

SSCULLY, you are a gentleman and a scholar, thank you again for all of your help!

Best regards,

pgh_medic

 

Hey don't sweat it. The blowing fuses made me take the long way around things.

By time you posted about the fog lamp mod, I should have directly went to the checking the socket with a meter, rather then taking you around the long way.

Glad things are good now. There is a post in the electrical forum on switching the bulb/LED in the headlamp switch if you feel that brave.

For 85.00 for a new one, maybe just get a new one ?